I work in central London and ride an XJ900 in (better commuter than the Fazer)

I have one of these Spada Air Pro jackets after seeing it in Ride magazine as a "best buy" ...

http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/76321?r=GS&gclid=COWfi5uJrLgCFfHKtAodKUEA4w

And it is the mutt's nuts in hot weather. Superb air flow through it, but it's fully armoured as well. Comes with a waterproof cover (last resort really as it's a bit "boil in the bag") and a detachable thermal liner. It's got a full and short zip around the waist.

A pair of Hood jeans, which having looked at numerous types, seem to be the best quality by far, with hip and knee armour.

Some paddock boots that cover my ankles with padded protection
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tuzo-Waterproof-Leather-Textile-Paddock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Boots-Black-/270937336132?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Boots&var=&hash=item3f151fa944

And lastly, a pair of Hein Gericke short mesh gloves  -  I ride in without sweating my nuts off, but I feel I'm adequately protected should the worst happen

There are some aftermarket pipes that don't allow the oil filter to come off - piss poor design. My mate at work bought a Fazer with some stainless downpipes and found he had to remove them to get the oil filter off. He's changed the pipes now.

Not sure why you need a new one? The old one should be perfectly good.

Right.


There's no blue triangular plug/socket. There's seven wires from the loom going to the the immobiliser, four of which have been cut from the the white plug in the photo above. I can only assume there was another 3 pin plug that's been cut off completely - and that ties in with the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual that shows nine black wires going to an alarm unit. (i.e. six wires on one plug and three on the other)


looking at the wiring diagram those black wires come from all over the bike and it'll take me a month of Sundays to trace each one and work out what it does. One comes from the CDI unit, one from the cut-out relay and the last thing I want to do is get those wrong and screw those units up.


I'm going to ring Datatool on Monday to see if they do spares for the unit- all I need is the circuit board. There's no way I can cut this damn thing out. And I thought the one on my car was difficult!


The plug with the red/white wires has got me stumped. It's a female one and I was wrong about it connecting to the other plug as that's female as well. There's nothing in the wiring diagram to suggest what it's for, but it is part of the man loom.


And checked the wiring from the genny cover - that's all good. Just have to keep checking plugs for now.


Anyone know if the CDI unit can cause issues?

Thanks all. Changing the wiring loom isn't going to happen. I'm working until the weekend,  I'll have a look then.

Griff, as stated, it joins the loom where the plain black wires at the plug in the photo have been cut off.

And I do have a multi meter that I can use. My plan may be to remove the unit cover and find out what happens to each wire when the unit activates and then make that permanent.

Your original loom will be colour coded so re-joining them should be pretty simple,

This is  the odd thing - the immobiliser is under the seat. Near it, and part of the loom, is a 6 wire connector plug. One side of which is all red/white wires, the other is all black wires. The red side (female) has a purpose made connector plugged in that connects all the pins and is capped with a plastic cap.


The male side of the connector has had  five wires cut and joined to the plain black wires from the immobiliser. Looking at the Haynes wiring diagram the connector looks like it was intended for an alarm system.


There is a relay in the immobiliser, so hopefully I can work out what gets connected when the relay switches on as it seems to isolate the start button / relay at the least.

I have had a good look at the loom, and can't see anything unusual. Tried pulling and moving connections with it running with no joy. Then it'll just cut out when left running with no-one near it.

This is my best effort so far - an M8x50mm bolt straight into the back tyre. Picked it up on the way to work a while ago - had to take the pic and email it to my boss to show him I really did have a puncture and wasn't still in bed!

My side light is still in place and working. To remove the bullet lights all I need do is disconnect them at the connectors I put in the side light leads.

If you think your lights might draw too much current, then a relay and a fused feed from the battery might be a better idea. Take the signal for the relay from the positive side of the side light.

Scotchblocks are OK if used correctly - i.e. very low ampage, such a signal feed to a relay. The problem is people use them to splice into headlamp leads to power spotlights so they're drawing 10amps through a tiny area of contact, which overheats...fire.

I have two small bullet led's that I've connected using crimped bullet connectors off the pilot light. Cut the positive, bind the two ends back together and crimp into the female side of the bullet connector. Crimp the positive lead of the LED lights into the male. Repeat with the negative leads. That way the lights are easily removable.

Thanks, I shall have a look over the weekend.

I've been using Daytona Hotgrips for years now, never had a problem with them...


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Daytona-hot-grips-inch-handlebars/dp/B0052DSKZM


The only slight drawback is that they don't maintain a constant temperature - you put them on "start" until they're well hot (they can get almost too hot to hold, even through gloves) then put them on "Run". They slowly cool down so that after about twenty minutes or so you have to put them on "Start" again. But they have thin bullet connects which means they thread through small holes easy enough, and just seem to be very reliable.


Combined with handlebar muffs over the winter (look crap, but on a 100K divvy 900 for work and back, who cares?) I had nice warm hands every day.


But I've put a pair of the Oxford Lites on the Fazer, and by comparison, they're crap. Even on full blast they don't get anywhere near as warm as the Daytonas.

Have you taken the rubber hose off the gauge and tried blowing through it to check it's not blocked? While it's off, pull the hose off one of the other gauges and connect it to number two to check the gauge is working.