Look at 'downloads' then 'manuals' at top of this page.


That was way beyond my skills, mine went straight to the mechanics so i knew it was sorted properly.


It's one of those things that can't be messed up otherwise you're asking for a world of pain!   

Cam chain tensioner pushes against the cam chain to take up the slack, as the chain gets slightly worn the tensioner pushes a tad harder to make the chain efficient.
When the tensioner gets towards the final notches, it means the chain is knackered, at a guess, the 30,000 mark?
These days you''re looking at 4hrs labour (maybe less, i can't honestly remember?)!
Get both sorted out at the same time!
Common "fault", but you should get it sorted, it can cause problems if you don't!
If the noise disappears after warm up though, you may be ok for a while?

Worn cam chain tensioner, cam chain, or both.

They're in the worst place ever, as if they built the bike around them! 

You'll always hear ticking on start up but it should go away when the engine warms up.

Apologies Dead Eye, i was expecting an iffy response, what i meant to say was 'Knitting Champion' 




(please tell me there's no Champion Knitting Foccers on this website?) 

Updated nut, and DID Gold is the way forward......

Think i paid a tenner less than they are now, mine's the Moto GP one.

I had a little problem with the link pipe because my aftermarket down pipes are a different size to originals apparently, so i did a bit of improvisation, but it's all good now.

I must say though, when i called SP Engineering about the issue they were extremely helpful on the phone trying to sort it out for me.

By the way, the one in the video has the baffles removed, but trust me there really is no need, and it has a road legal BSAU stamp as well.


(My bike is the black one towards the bottom of the "Show Me Your Fazer" post on page 8 if you want to see it side on)

http://www.spengineering.co.uk/model-180-fzs-600-fazer.html

Not sure of the nut size to be honest, but, if you haven't done it already, replace it with the new wider version.


http://www.bikesandtravels.co.uk/default.aspx?pagef=203&l1=Biking%20Blog%20Yamaha's%20Stripped%20Loose%20and%20Lost%20Sprocket%20Retaining%20Nuts

Yeah, cheap one does the job.......

Very old school colours, i'm liking that a lot.......nice work fella......

Just clean the pins up for now and put a light smear of copper grease on them.


And purchase some 'red rubber grease' to put on the exposed parts of the caliper pots, to try and protect them from future corrosion. You can buy it in small pots, or even very small sachets.

If you wanna buy new pins then http://www.fowlers.co.uk/  is the place, it's where to buy most original parts from. (They always ask for your chassis number, and NOTHING is inexpensive)

I recently bought front pad pins on Flebay, and didn't realise that they fit a few other calipers from what i could make out, they were almost a standard pin so when i measured them sure enough they were the same.

I'm not sure about the rear ones though because of the thread but this is the place i bought them from, maybe email them, ring them or just measure yours and see if they match? (DISCLAIMER: I'm just putting you on their web page, i've no idea what size pin you need so don't just go and buy it without checking first?)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tokico-brake-caliper-pad-pin-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Honda-Yamaha-52mm-x-5mm-/150747444917?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item23193f76b5#ht_3916wt_1067

My carbs were stripped and refitted by PDQ when i had my new can put on, and it doesn't feel any different even now.
It runs sweet........sits at 1300 rock solid, and that was done ages ago.......still a bit quirky at very low speeds though.

Personally it sounds okay to me, and YES i believe they do appreciate the odd thrashing every now and then.......especially with a tank full of Shell V Power on board 

There's no blowing AND the bike runs fine ???


I reckon you've just answered your own question........