old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Fizzy Pies on 09 June 2013, 05:47:19 pm
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http://youtu.be/EAJwRRMbiqA (http://youtu.be/EAJwRRMbiqA)
Just to be clear, both lights came on when I was pressing the passing light, with the full beam switch to on. Erm nothing comes on with the light switch.
Horn seems to be a bit iffy at the moment too.
:'(
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Might be the contacts inside the switches, get them a shot of this :)
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195717_langId_-1_categoryId_255223 (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195717_langId_-1_categoryId_255223)
or WD40
Mark
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Have you had a hose on the bike at all?
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I can't see the video but there's two filaments in the bulbs and if it works on high beams and not on low beams then the low beam filaments might be blown. You could pop out the bulbs and have a look
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I'm on a train so I think videos are blocked
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I can't see the video but there's two filaments in the bulbs and if it works on high beams and not on low beams then the low beam filaments might be blown. You could pop out the bulbs and have a look
2 filaments in one bulb, not both, an H1 and H4.
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oh yeah forgot the 600 has crappy lights :lol
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oh yeah forgot the 600 has crappy lights :lol
Not wrong there!! :thumbdown
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Fault finding check order-
1. Battery terminal's tight,
2. Fuses
3. Bulbs
4. Switch gear
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oh yeah forgot the 600 has crappy lights :lol
Not wrong there!! :thumbdown
hey fizzy....you done well to notice there not working :lol
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Must be a broken wire between the switch and the bulb? Try turning the switch on and wiggle the headlight wires around and keep an eye on the headlight. See if it comes on
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You need to increase swearing by 40% then have another go. Maybe the wire from the switch to the bulb is worn through and is going to ground when you turn it on. Check if youve got 12v going to the switch and then if youve got 12v going to the bulb holder with the switch on. Im only guessing here btw :lol
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Before you follow the procedure here, answer 2 questions
1 Did it happen suddenly, (was ok yesterday and gone today) or was somebody modifing the wiring before it happened
2.Have you modified the wiring to bring on the dim on the right side.
Lift the tank, open the box with all the connectors in it. Trace the cable from the right handlebar switch into the box disconnect the plug with the Red/yellow tracer, Light Blue and Light blue/black wires and move it out of the way. Switch on the ignition and you should get 12 volts on the Red yellow on the part still in the box.. Bypass the on off light switch by using a piece or wire or a paper clip by bridging the Red/yellow (with the 12v on it) and the Light Blue/Black. The dims should come on. Bridge the Red/Yellow and the Light Blue and the parking lights should come on.
Post the result.
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Just had a long conversation with Fizzy about it. Turns out the brown connector to the switch was half melted. Cause for concern, I think. Could it be shorting out?
Fizzy said he'd fit a new connector, and get back to us about it.
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Wouldn't it be better to find out why the connector melted before replacing? Just a thought...
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Wouldn't it be better to find out why the connector melted before replacing? Just a thought...
I thought that too. But what is odd is that the fuse is OK according to Fizzy. It may be that a previous owner tried fitting higher powered bulbs, and putting additional load on the system or something similar, but we can't tell WHEN it happened.
If changing the connector works, at least Fizzy will know that he has to keep an eye on it. If the lights go again, he'll know where to look. As long as the man can see, and can be seen!!
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I agree, that's odd. But what kind of condition is the wiring in and around and in the connector anyway? - I'm not really able to tell from the pic. Has something been shorting around there?
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I have seen problems like that previously, but was caused by loose connections arcing rather than an overloaded circuit.
At least he has found the fault :) and another happier foccer
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Bloody glad they're working, mate!! Keep an eye on that block connector though. If they're now working again, it would seem the melt is recent.
Glad to hear they're fixed though! :)
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Is that a computer molex 4 way connector I see there? :D
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Is that a computer molex 4 way connector I see there? :D
Apparently so... :lol :lol
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Ah molex connectors... that takes me back to some rather iffy electronics whilst in school haha
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Just a wild guess, but that may be it... :eek
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That doesn't look like a standard connector... all fuses OK? It might just be a blown connector rather than a blown CDI
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I did. Hence post. ;)
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Fucked again just my luck... guy with a thou from the next building at work thinks the ecu is to fault. Think he meant cdi?
bollocks. the problem is current, not volts, and the Ignitor (as its called) does volts, not current/amps. it looks like there is a high ampere current draw - any extra electrics on there or non standard bulbs etc.? or, the loom connectors are touching something thats on fire
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Arcing from loose connection can cause it.
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Arcing from loose connection can cause it.
suppose so. But so would holding a lighter flame underneath too :lol. Either way, looks like he had something there that if not fixed, at source, would just keep coming back
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I'm in Edinburgh then Inverness next week. Any chance you can take pics of those two looms , showing all wires going in and out, for both looms that have the burns on. Also, have you got a multimeter ?
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I'm shit too..but is like water... The pipe leaks or it doesnt, runs smooth or bursts. Bit of simple mmathematics and a sieve meter , and it's possible to fix. Can do this remotely
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cant be sure fizzpies, but those pics I asked for would help.
anyway, from what I can see - and this could be wrong as it is difficult to tell from the specific images you uploaded..
the loom to the left is the red with yellow stripe, blue, blue with black stripe. that would make it the light switch loom (lights off, sidelight, main lights) connected to the pass switch loom. Could be that you have a sticking or bad contact pass switch that is sticking "on" and drawing current permanently rather than a quick "blip". That would explain the current drawn along a cable not intended to be "stuck on" and overheating. We are talking about 15 year old bikes here. Replace the pass switch would be my first suggestion.
Cannot make out what the right loom is, can see Red,White,Black at the top but your fat finger is hiding the bottom.
Cant quite make out the colour of the wires coming out of the bottom of the left loom tho. Really need pics of these two looms from top, bottom, sides
by the way, the ICU, CDI or what the foc you wanna kall it has foc all to do with this so you "mate" is full of shite I'm afraid, not unless he's rewritten the wiring guide for a fizzy
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The problem is in the lighting circuit. The red/yellow is the main feed from the Headlight fuse to the lights on/off switch on the right hand bar. The blue/black is the is for the heads and dims and blue is for the parking lights
The white connector is for the wheel sensor and goes to the clocks and mostly likely was burned by the computer molex connector.
The computer molex connector and its connectors you used to repair it is not capable of taking a 12v 10amps circuit as they are for low power computer circuits.
As a start point remove the bulbs and check the wattage, this circuit is fused by the Headlight fuse. If the wattage is more than 55 or 60 then the high wattage bulbs caused the problem.
However if the bulbs are the correct wattage and since the light on/off switch and the dimmer switch appear to be ok, the fault most likely lies in the connectors you used. The initial fault was most likely caused by a loose connection arcing. The Red Yellow wire will need to be cut back until you get to clean copper and a new piece added in to bring it back to the proper length. It is a stranded cable and the corrosion will effect the electrical flow and could cause a reoccurance or the problem
You will need to purchase some good quality automotive connectors, something like those shown below. They can be bought in packs of ten with their appropriate insulators. Do not use the crap preinsulated type. With the proper connectors crimped and insulated the problem should be resolved.
The reason the fellow with the the Fazer 1000 the ECU said it might be the ECU is that the ECU (Ignitor) on the 03 to 05 Fazer 1000s switches on the lights when the bike start , but the ignitor has nothing to do with the lights on the 98/99 Fazer 600.
(http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/image_uploads/030201___030206_orig_listing.jpg)(http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/image_uploads/030501___030506_orig_listing.jpg)
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I didn't read high up enough on the above posts. He's used PC connectors. Fizzypies, these terminals are more like 5amp for the 1.57 mm pins, 8.5amp for the 2.36 mm pins. And the plastic looms can be cheap too.
Say each bike bulb is about 60w , to be safe, that's 120w divide by 12v = 10amp , far more than the max 8.5amp for molex; so go for at least 12amp connectors to be save
Foc me, no wonder they are burning out
unfazed: this doesnt explain why the original looms failed; I would still suggest a check of the lighting switches principally the lights on/off switch on the r/h grip, and the pass switch; and a continuity test on the forward bias cables to ensure no shorts to ground
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The problem is in the lighting circuit. The red/yellow is the main feed from the Headlight fuse to the lights on/off switch on the right hand bar. T...
I need say no more, its all here from the wonderful unfazed :smokin but....
The red/yellow had burnt.. This feeds the main headlight bulb from both the pass and hi beam switches. to me this looks like a symptom of high current draw for a sustained time, through both switches. A stuck/faulty pass switch would allow two flows of current along the same line. The OEM connector he had on originally (?) had burnt and im not convinced it would allow arcing unless it was shot through inside.the terminals pins are enclosed within the block. .if we could look at the oldvterminal pins we could ascertain. I've never seen this arcing effect ,but entirely possible? I think he had and had a problem upstream in the switch but he would need to get proper spec connectors as we have said then see if it burns out again....and then,well its either your arcing again with his new loom, or still that faulty switch. Fizzypies: did the high beam dash light work and does it come on?
**EDIT***: Just thought of an arcing potential, rather than the wire end of the loom, the pin contact end is close enough for arcing to occur if there is some old strands of wire in there or some other conductive material. but the way that red/yellow wire has stripped down on both sides suggests to me a weak link at the loom not being able to carry the high current - and if this was happening before (with OEM loom) then I'd still plumb for a current draw issue from there being too much high current switches on (pass/hi/lo beam)
Also I wouldn't piss about with paying £10 for those little automotive packs... And you still need loom tape around it all to keep moisture out and prevent shorting... Etc
Get something like this instead http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=231330354837 (http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=231330354837) and give it a good clean with contact cleaner over the cables and in the connectors. You now have a rewiring kit should anything else go wrong with electrics, and it may well do on an old bike if it hadn't been maintained and cleaned well. You have already had one bad experience, tend to be like buses !