old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Freza on 02 July 2014, 09:42:17 am
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What oil do you recommend for a 35k+ miles machine ?
Last time, they put in this oil: CASTROL Power 1GPS 4T 15W-50
It's part synthetic. I thought these machines need fully synthetic oil ?
Did they screw me over ?
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What oil do you recommend for a 35k+ miles machine ?
Last time, they put in this oil: CASTROL Power 1GPS 4T 15W-50
It's part synthetic. I thought these machines need fully synthetic oil ?
Did they screw me over ?
Should be 10w/40 semi synthetic, motorcycle oil.
This seems to be popular at a reasonable price on here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motul-5000-4T-Semi-Synthetic-4-Stroke-Motorcycle-Bike-Engine-Oil-10w-40-/141250866261?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item20e3352c55#ht_1470wt_1190 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motul-5000-4T-Semi-Synthetic-4-Stroke-Motorcycle-Bike-Engine-Oil-10w-40-/141250866261?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item20e3352c55#ht_1470wt_1190)
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These oils are available locally, which one should I choose ?
I know that differences are small and any of these will work, but still I wanted to check with you:
(http://i.imgur.com/Mh9N4MP.png) (http://i.imgur.com/3kXs3MH.png) (http://i.imgur.com/7vqK7xU.png)
Bear in mind that we have mild/warm temperatures here, during summer they often hit 40 degrees Celsius in shade.
Some advise I go with 15-50, since it's more suitable for warmer climates, some say 10-40 will do just fine.
Also, replacement oil filter is £7 and original Yamaha is £15, should I spend more and go for Yamaha's ?
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STILL 10w/40 semi-synthetic
Not sure why you are still contemplating it?
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Just wanted to make sure, thanks :)
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.
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8 months after you first asked? :lol
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Yeah, we take it slowly here :D
Nice graph :thumbup
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I'm a bit embarrassed to say that today I changed my Fazer's oil for the first time.
Until now, only the mechanics did that for me, but since there's not much you can screw up, I decided to take further responsibility of changing oil.
It all went OK, except that removing of oil filter was a pain in the arse, because there wasn't much space to move the wrench.
(http://www.pohrani.com/t/34/T0/11OC2tVR/20150326160039.jpg) (http://www.pohrani.com/?34/T0/11OC2tVR/20150326160039.jpg)
About 2.7L went inside when settled.
And for good people on this forum a little bonus from me...
Yesterday when I went to buy the oil filter, they just received a brand new 2015 R1.
They allowed me to sit on it, fire it up and rev it.
It's definitely a technological and mechanical gem of a motorcycle, but I'm not really a fan of the sound (crossplane engine).
Also, it's not as comfortable as Fazer.
The riding position is a spine killer, especially for taller people, but I guess that's the compromise you agree with when purchasing bikes like this:
https://youtu.be/y89oOl3zUdk (https://youtu.be/y89oOl3zUdk)
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Well done, it's a piece of piss once you've first done it yourself, and kind of satisfying in the process too.
I was always a fan of using the K&N oil filter with the handy nut on the end for "easy" removal, but last time i tried to remove one i found that the coating on the nut made it an unusual ill fitting socket size and also seemed to be a very soft material, so it was actually quite useless.
So i sat there swearing at it a lot then dug out my trusty chain wrench which sorted it straight away.
Make a note of your oil change date for future reference, and also you'll find it much cheaper to buy oil in 4 litre containers rather than 4 x 1 litre.
You only need to change the oil filter every 2 oil changes, and there's really no need to wrench it up too tightly, just smear oil on the rubber gasket and nip it up as much as you can by hand and that will be enough, if it ever does leak then simply nip it up some more but it shouldn't do. :thumbup
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Personally, I've never understood why the filter change is every other oil change, as there's roughly 200ml of old oil left in the filter. As Hi-Flo filters are fairly cheap I usually change mine along with the oil.
Increased expense, yes, but surely it makes sense to get rid of as much oil as possible? Roughly 700ml of old oil left inside even with an oil & filter drain.
I suppose you could even take off the oil filter, drain most of the old oil out of it & reattach.... best of both worlds?
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Personally, I've never understood why the filter change is every other oil change, as there's roughly 200ml of old oil left in the filter. As Hi-Flo filters are fairly cheap I usually change mine along with the oil.
Increased expense, yes, but surely it makes sense to get rid of as much oil as possible? Roughly 700ml of old oil left inside even with an oil & filter drain.
I suppose you could even take off the oil filter, drain most of the old oil out of it & reattach.... best of both worlds?
Never caused any issues ever before.
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Well done, it's a piece of piss once you've first done it yourself, and kind of satisfying in the process too.
I was always a fan of using the K&N oil filter with the handy nut on the end for "easy" removal, but last time i tried to remove one i found that the coating on the nut made it an unusual ill fitting socket size and also seemed to be a very soft material, so it was actually quite useless.
So i sat there swearing at it a lot then dug out my trusty chain wrench which sorted it straight away.
Make a note of your oil change date for future reference, and also you'll find it much cheaper to buy oil in 4 litre containers rather than 4 x 1 litre.
You only need to change the oil filter every 2 oil changes, and there's really no need to wrench it up too tightly, just smear oil on the rubber gasket and nip it up as much as you can by hand and that will be enough, if it ever does leak then simply nip it up some more but it shouldn't do. :thumbup
Thanks.
Yeah, they didn't have 4L package, so I had to buy 4x1.
How often do you recommend to change oil?
Every 10.000km ? (~6000 miles)
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I've always done it around 4-5000 miles, the recommendation is 6000 miles.
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I do mine every other year = 2-3k miles depending on the weather ! filter each time to.
I think my oil must be good enough to sell on
Castrol act evo for me --- nice red colour, like giving the bike a blood transfusion
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I do mine every other year = 2-3k miles depending on the weather ! filter each time to.
I think my oil must be good enough to sell on
Castrol act evo for me --- nice red colour, like giving the bike a blood transfusion
Money to burn!
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The thing is I dont do football, golf ------ anything, my bike is all I have in that respect, I dont spend any money on the bike other than fuel, do all the work myself, so £15 a year isnt much, I would say that £130 on a fuel cap is money to burn. swapping an exhaust for a different sound is money to burn, swapping leavers for stubby ones is money to burn having more than one bike is money to burn, smoking is money to burn. So there you go, blah blah blah.
Who wants to buy my old oil - only done 3000 miles. From a smoke free pet free home will send well packed in a jiffy bag.
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The thing is I dont do football, golf ------ anything, my bike is all I have in that respect, I dont spend any money on the bike other than fuel, do all the work myself, so £15 a year isnt much, I would say that £130 on a fuel cap is money to burn. swapping an exhaust for a different sound is money to burn, swapping leavers for stubby ones is money to burn having more than one bike is money to burn, smoking is money to burn. So there you go, blah blah blah.
Who wants to buy my old oil - only done 3000 miles. From a smoke free pet free home will send well packed in a jiffy bag.
Changing too often is more bad than good. But if that's your annual mileage, than OK.
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The thing is I dont do football, golf ------ anything, my bike is all I have in that respect, I dont spend any money on the bike other than fuel, do all the work myself, so £15 a year isnt much, I would say that £130 on a fuel cap is money to burn. swapping an exhaust for a different sound is money to burn, swapping leavers for stubby ones is money to burn having more than one bike is money to burn, smoking is money to burn. So there you go, blah blah blah.
Who wants to buy my old oil - only done 3000 miles. From a smoke free pet free home will send well packed in a jiffy bag.
Changing too often is more bad than good. But if that's your annual mileage, than OK.
How so ---bad and why if low mileage good
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Oil takes some time for additives to work. Brand new oil is not perfect. So changing more often than reasonable is not better. At best it is a waste of money and oil.
I use fully synthetic oil in all my motorcycles and change at factory intervals. Around 8 k kilometers, or once a year on Fazer.
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So at 3000 miles - not klm and every two years im not far off am I
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Yup. My bad - didn't get much sleep today. Somehow I understood you change in 2-3k mile interval. So I guessed if that's annual mileage than OK, but no need to change so often if riding 4-5 k miles per year. Your policy is quite reasonable.
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Just to clear up, my average is 1000 to 1500 miles per year and I have been changing oil and filter every two years.
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Time interval isn't important, mileage is?
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The thing is I dont do football, golf ------ anything, my bike is all I have in that respect, I dont spend any money on the bike other than fuel, do all the work myself, so £15 a year isnt much, I would say that £130 on a fuel cap is money to burn. swapping an exhaust for a different sound is money to burn, swapping leavers for stubby ones is money to burn having more than one bike is money to burn, smoking is money to burn. So there you go, blah blah blah.
Who wants to buy my old oil - only done 3000 miles. From a smoke free pet free home will send well packed in a jiffy bag.
Absolutely fantastic post :-D :-D :-D
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Time interval isn't important, mileage is?
Both are. Once per year, or per mileage - whichever comes first. However, if mileage is really low, less than 1/3 of the recommended service interval, you could go with a bit longer interval. Perhaps even two years.
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Ok, I thought oil wouldn't deteriorate over time...
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I use Castrol Power1 10w-40 semi-synthetic changer every 10.000km (6000miles) or so with a new filter.
I do mostly highway/mountain road riding/commuting to work etc. so the engine always warms up sufficiently.
I ride it all year around and tend to change the oil 2 times a year, until now no probs with the engine or clutch. bike is currently on 30.000miles
Changing the oil every 2-3000 miles in my opinion is a complete waste of money unless its used for racing and is constantly revved..
The oil i'm using has an API rating of SJ which is way above the recommendation of the manufacturer so i would expect it to be still a good lubricant even after 6000miles..
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Changing the oil every 2-3000 miles in my opinion is a complete waste of money
Thats why I sort of mitigate things by only changing every two years if I changed every 6000 miles for me it would almost be once every 5 years
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I'm a bit embarrassed to say that today I changed my Fazer's oil for the first time.
Until now, only the mechanics did that for me, but since there's not much you can screw up, I decided to take further responsibility of changing oil.
It all went OK, except that removing of oil filter was a pain in the arse, because there wasn't much space to move the wrench.
([url]http://www.pohrani.com/t/34/T0/11OC2tVR/20150326160039.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://www.pohrani.com/?34/T0/11OC2tVR/20150326160039.jpg[/url])
About 2.7L went inside when settled.
And for good people on this forum a little bonus from me...
Yesterday when I went to buy the oil filter, they just received a brand new 2015 R1.
They allowed me to sit on it, fire it up and rev it.
It's definitely a technological and mechanical gem of a motorcycle, but I'm not really a fan of the sound (crossplane engine).
Also, it's not as comfortable as Fazer.
The riding position is a spine killer, especially for taller people, but I guess that's the compromise you agree with when purchasing bikes like this:
[url]https://youtu.be/y89oOl3zUdk[/url] ([url]https://youtu.be/y89oOl3zUdk[/url])
Buy an oil filter socket to fit the filter you use
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According to the maintenance manual which I think is downloadable from here the interval is 6000km which I think is about 4000 miles. That works out at about 3 or 4 months usage for me during the spring and summer, a bit longer during the autumn and winter. Mind you most of it is trogging up and down the motorway to work so not exactly high stress mileage. Personally I always change the oil and filter together. A filter is only a fiver so why scrimp.
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According to the maintenance manual which I think is downloadable from here the interval is 6000km which I think is about 4000 miles. That works out at about 3 or 4 months usage for me during the spring and summer, a bit longer during the autumn and winter. Mind you most of it is trogging up and down the motorway to work so not exactly high stress mileage. Personally I always change the oil and filter together. A filter is only a fiver so why scrimp.
Use fully synthetic oil and change at 10,000 km (6000 mile) intervals, especially since you ride like you said you do. Just make sure you use a new oil filter each time.
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Ok thanks
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So, I've been riding with Motul oil that I changed 3 months ago and I must say I don't really like it... :\
The gearbox in particular became noticeably harsher, gear changes louder and harder.
Even my friend, who had Fazer 600 a few years ago said he once put Motul in and never again, due to same reasons.
Gonna switch to something else as soon as possible, probably Castrol.
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So, I've been riding with Motul oil that I changed 3 months ago and I must say I don't really like it... :\
The gearbox in particular became noticeably harsher, gear changes louder and harder.
Even my friend, who had Fazer 600 a few years ago said he once put Motul in and never again, due to same reasons.
Gonna switch to something else as soon as possible, probably Castrol.
Try Fuchs Silkolene Comp 4 10w-40 XP Synthetic Ester Based 4-Stroke Engine Oil For High Performance Motorcycles
Long story short - the best oil ever! See details here:
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-785-silkolene-comp-4-10w-40-xp-synthetic-ester-based-4-stroke-engine-oil-for-high-performance-motorcycles.aspx (http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-785-silkolene-comp-4-10w-40-xp-synthetic-ester-based-4-stroke-engine-oil-for-high-performance-motorcycles.aspx)
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I also have used motul & I agree it's shite !
Castrol power 1 gets my vote, wouldn't use anything else now.
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So, I've been riding with Motul oil that I changed 3 months ago and I must say I don't really like it... :\
The gearbox in particular became noticeably harsher, gear changes louder and harder.
Even my friend, who had Fazer 600 a few years ago said he once put Motul in and never again, due to same reasons.
Gonna switch to something else as soon as possible, probably Castrol.
Try Fuchs Silkolene Comp 4 10w-40 XP Synthetic Ester Based 4-Stroke Engine Oil For High Performance Motorcycles
Long story short - the best oil ever! See details here:
[url]http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-785-silkolene-comp-4-10w-40-xp-synthetic-ester-based-4-stroke-engine-oil-for-high-performance-motorcycles.aspx[/url] ([url]http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-785-silkolene-comp-4-10w-40-xp-synthetic-ester-based-4-stroke-engine-oil-for-high-performance-motorcycles.aspx[/url])
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuchs-Silkolene-Comp-4-4-Stroke-Motorcycle-Bike-Engine-Oil-4-Litre-10W40-/371111478473?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5667f7c4c9 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuchs-Silkolene-Comp-4-4-Stroke-Motorcycle-Bike-Engine-Oil-4-Litre-10W40-/371111478473?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5667f7c4c9)
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I used Castrol before, so I may try Fuchs now...
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Motul is shite , you need fully synth :rollin
I do love a oil thread :lol
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These oil threads have been flogged to death. :rolleyes
For the record I use Silkolene Super 4 on all the fazers :thumbup
(http://www.motorcycleshop.ie/ekmps/shops/motorcycleshop/images/silkolene-super-4-10w-40-4l-929-p[ekm]288x288[ekm].jpg)
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oil mmmmmm a slippery lubricant that allows things to move in and out smoothly :) :)
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oil mmmmmm a slippery lubricant that allows things to move in and out smoothly :) :)
No, that is KY Jelly :lol :lol :lol
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always change oil and filter at same time why would you leave old filter on with new oil ???????????? makes no sense (for sake of what 4quid!! )
change oil+filter every year march time ready for thrashing times :lol
either use castol or putoline never had any issues with either
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So, I've been riding with Motul oil that I changed 3 months ago and I must say I don't really like it... :\
The gearbox in particular became noticeably harsher, gear changes louder and harder.
Even my friend, who had Fazer 600 a few years ago said he once put Motul in and never again, due to same reasons.
Gonna switch to something else as soon as possible, probably Castrol.
Try Fuchs Silkolene Comp 4 10w-40 XP Synthetic Ester Based 4-Stroke Engine Oil For High Performance Motorcycles
Long story short - the best oil ever! See details here:
[url]http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-785-silkolene-comp-4-10w-40-xp-synthetic-ester-based-4-stroke-engine-oil-for-high-performance-motorcycles.aspx[/url] ([url]http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-785-silkolene-comp-4-10w-40-xp-synthetic-ester-based-4-stroke-engine-oil-for-high-performance-motorcycles.aspx[/url])
Just changed it to Silkolene Comp 4, and wow what a change!
Smoother shifting, even neutral to 1st doesn't clunk that hard anymore.
Excellent oil, made a huge difference, at least on my bike.
Thanks.
__________________
Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk
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Just done mine with castrol power 1 10w-40 4t semi synth
posted it here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,6412.msg232264.html#msg232264 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,6412.msg232264.html#msg232264)
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Just changed mine to Castrol Edge Power 1 10w-40 Semi synth. It feels smoother now (placebo?)
The last oil change was done 1500km ago, but I don't know how much time has passed, so I decided to do it anyway since it was the previous owner who did the last one.
However, the oil filter was perfect and OEM Yamaha. The one I got in the kit was a generic Snell (but Hiflofiltro package). Is Yamaha OEM filter better than the Hiflofiltro/Snell filter?
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However, the oil filter was perfect and OEM Yamaha. The one I got in the kit was a generic Snell (but Hiflofiltro package). Is Yamaha OEM filter better than the Hiflofiltro/Snell filter?
Nope. Most of the common oil filter makes are pretty much the same.
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When people say they aren't happy with Motul oil, I'm prepared to bet a beer that they used either 5100, or 300 V.
There aren't many oils better for (4 stroke) motorcycles than Motul 7100 IMO.
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When people say they aren't happy with Motul oil, I'm prepared to bet a beer that they used either 5100, or 300 V.
There aren't many oils better for (4 stroke) motorcycles than Motul 7100 IMO.
You can see from my first posts that I used a 5100 10w-40.
__________________
Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk
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I used this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motul-5000-FZS600-Fazer-98-03-Oil-And-Filter-Kit-/351278293650?hash=item51c9d16292:m:mog0RUj5b_ujSjeYeJeLcNg (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motul-5000-FZS600-Fazer-98-03-Oil-And-Filter-Kit-/351278293650?hash=item51c9d16292:m:mog0RUj5b_ujSjeYeJeLcNg)
Seems alright to me, surely oil is; oil does? :rollin Is it really worth paying double the price for Fuchs or Shell or some other premium brand covered in technical mumbojumbo like "Electrosyntec Technology" (wtf is Electrosyntec Technology ????) and shiny pictures to entice the people in Halfords?
Gear change is a bit clunky, but then its always been a bit clunky. I was under the impression thats just how Fazer engines are!
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I've just ordered some of this oil, it's got good reviews and is a decent price as well. :) (click on the demagnified link, it will work)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf#rwid (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf#rwid)
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Never heard of that brand, a quick google shows theyre a "family run oil distributor" according to their website - http://www.westwayoils.co.uk/# (http://www.westwayoils.co.uk/#)!about/c10th
So they buy oil from somewhere, stick their own label on it and sell it on. If theyre able to sell it on at £20 for 5 litres, and make a decent enough profit to bother with it, they must be buying some dirt cheap stuff... if it looks too good to be true, it probably is! Or maybe Im just being too cynical! :lol Either way let us know how it goes, if it turns out to be good, for that price Ill stock up on it!
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Never heard of that brand, a quick google shows theyre a "family run oil distributor" according to their website - [url]http://www.westwayoils.co.uk/#[/url] ([url]http://www.westwayoils.co.uk/#[/url])!about/c10th
So they buy oil from somewhere, stick their own label on it and sell it on. If theyre able to sell it on at £20 for 5 litres, and make a decent enough profit to bother with it, they must be buying some dirt cheap stuff... if it looks too good to be true, it probably is! Or maybe Im just being too cynical! :lol Either way let us know how it goes, if it turns out to be good, for that price Ill stock up on it!
100% feedback on 11,500 sales on Ebay can't be a bad start, and i literally haven't found anything negative whatsoever about the company, just constant praise about the really quick delivery times.
I also thought i'd give the fully synthetic oil a go as well as i've never tried it before, and at that price for 5 litres it was just too tempting not to give it a go.
I'm not a cheapskate or anything, i've used the overpriced Castrol oil several times in the past but you do get the impression you're paying over the odds for the brand name, and if you don't try these new products out for yourself then you'll just never really know if they're any good or not.
I'm sure it will be fine, but i'll keep you posted on my opinion anyway.
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You can tell if oil is awful immediately, or after a short time.
You can tell if it is below average only after 30-50 k miles. Increased engine wear compared to wear with a good oil.
An oil test after 6k miles of the new oil you're trying out can help determine the quality.
The point is: people buying a different oil brand, pouring it at the oil change and saying "it's good" gives one only confirmation that the oil isn't awfully bad to cause problems immediately - clutch, gear changing, engine noise etc. But by no means can you be certain the oil is really good by "testing" it like that.
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You can tell if oil is awful immediately, or after a short time.
You can tell if it is below average only after 30-50 k miles. Increased engine wear compared to wear with a good oil.
An oil test after 6k miles of the new oil you're trying out can help determine the quality.
The point is: people buying a different oil brand, pouring it at the oil change and saying "it's good" gives one only confirmation that the oil isn't awfully bad to cause problems immediately - clutch, gear changing, engine noise etc. But by no means can you be certain the oil is really good by "testing" it like that.
So what exactly are you suggesting?
I change the oil every 4000 miles anyway.
The only way to test oil, is by using it.
I know every sound and feel of my bike as well, so if it's really no good i will know.
But if you read what i said earlier, there's been no negative feedback anywhere that i can find, which there certainly would be if it was even slightly ropey.
Word soon gets around if something is bad, but so far it hasn't at all, which is why i'm more than willing to give it a go.
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So what exactly are you suggesting?
Nothing. Just pointing out that no negative feedback doesn't mean oil is good quality. It just means it's not rubbish.
Independent testing is needed to determine the quality of a certain oil.
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In this claim culture era, if there was a problem with the oil, they would not stay long in business.
Plenty of examples out there of oil oil burning new car and motorcycle engines from Japan to Germany which they have blamed oil and oil additives but were proved wrong by the oil companies.
VW went so far as to specify a specific oil type and spec that you need to put in their engines and will test the oil when they get a new failed engine and if it is not to spec you are on your own.
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So what exactly are you suggesting?
Nothing. Just pointing out that no negative feedback doesn't mean oil is good quality. It just means it's not rubbish.
Independent testing is needed to determine the quality of a certain oil.
11500 people with 100% positive feedback sounds pretty good to me!
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11500 people with 100% positive feedback sounds pretty good to me!
If it's significantly cheaper than "brand name" oils, 11500 100% positive equals, IMO: it's not making any problems after pouring it (clutch slippage, engine noise, or loosing viscosity too rapidly). Does it protect the engine nearly as good as a brand name oil, or will it get worn after several change intervals - only time and independent testing will tell.
While with tyres I'm all about customer feedback, when it comes to oils, I'm more than sceptical.
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11500 people with 100% positive feedback sounds pretty good to me!
If it's significantly cheaper than "brand name" oils, 11500 100% positive equals, IMO: it's not making any problems after pouring it (clutch slippage, engine noise, or loosing viscosity too rapidly). Does it protect the engine nearly as good as a brand name oil, or will it get worn after several change intervals - only time and independent testing will tell.
While with tyres I'm all about customer feedback, when it comes to oils, I'm more than sceptical.
So will you believe ME if i say it's fine and great value for money?
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11500 people with 100% positive feedback sounds pretty good to me!
If it's significantly cheaper than "brand name" oils, 11500 100% positive equals, IMO: it's not making any problems after pouring it (clutch slippage, engine noise, or loosing viscosity too rapidly). Does it protect the engine nearly as good as a brand name oil, or will it get worn after several change intervals - only time and independent testing will tell.
While with tyres I'm all about customer feedback, when it comes to oils, I'm more than sceptical.
So will you believe ME if i say it's fine and great value for money?
Yes, after you've used it for about 20k miles. :)
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So, finally got my sump nut off earlier, after the bastard rounded off on me the other day, and i've changed the old oil for the new Westway Oil.
First impressions, it's wet and slippery, so we're off to a good start. :thumbup
I'll keep you posted, although i doubt i'll have very much to report to be honest.
I did buy one of those magnetic sump nuts to replace my OEM one, but the tight buggers must have been on a budget with the metal, it's only got half the threads.
Not that it really matters, you get what you pay for i s'pose, although it does have a 19mm head on the bolt rather than a 17mm one which is better.
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How much thread do you need? I suggest there's a reason. Means the magnet sits in a hole so collects the sludge better?
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How much thread do you need? I suggest there's a reason. Means the magnet sits in a hole so collects the sludge better?
That's a pretty good shout, i never thought of that.
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The thing is I dont do football, golf ------ anything, my bike is all I have in that respect, I dont spend any money on the bike other than fuel, do all the work myself, so £15 a year isnt much, I would say that £130 on a fuel cap is money to burn. swapping an exhaust for a different sound is money to burn, swapping leavers for stubby ones is money to burn having more than one bike is money to burn, smoking is money to burn. So there you go, blah blah blah.
Who wants to buy my old oil - only done 3000 miles. From a smoke free pet free home will send well packed in a jiffy bag.
Where in Scotland do You live? :lol
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I just don't get these posts about Oil Recommendations :wall
What the foc is wrong with the oil Yamaha recommend for the engine?
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I just don't get these posts about Oil Recommendations :wall
What the foc is wrong with the oil Yamaha recommend for the engine?
The one i just put in my bike is gonna be absoutely fine.
As you always point out, in this day and age of the possibility of court prosecution by some sad bastard (technical term) companies simply cannot afford to mess about if they want to stay in business.
Worse still, we're talking about engine oil, which primarily HAS to be of a certain spec, and secondly, if wrong, has the capability to wreck an engine.
If their oil even came close to either wrongdoing they'd be shut down immediately.
I found a bargain......i'll be riding to work soon........i expect to get there, with zero complaints from my engine.
In fact, my old oil barely touched 4000 miles anyway so if i really didn't like it, for whatever reason, i could still use that for another 2000 miles. :D
I'm 100% sure sure it'll be just fine though.
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So, I've been riding with Motul oil that I changed 3 months ago and I must say I don't really like it... :\
The gearbox in particular became noticeably harsher, gear changes louder and harder.
Even my friend, who had Fazer 600 a few years ago said he once put Motul in and never again, due to same reasons.
Gonna switch to something else as soon as possible, probably Castrol.
yup got motul in mine, gearbox horrible.. changing to Castrol soon.
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That oil i put in my bike has been absolutely fine, as expected. :thumbup
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So, I've been riding with Motul oil that I changed 3 months ago and I must say I don't really like it... :\
The gearbox in particular became noticeably harsher, gear changes louder and harder.
Even my friend, who had Fazer 600 a few years ago said he once put Motul in and never again, due to same reasons.
Gonna switch to something else as soon as possible, probably Castrol.
yup got motul in mine, gearbox horrible.. changing to Castrol soon.
And again, I can bet it's the 5100, not the Motul 7100 oil.
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Thats me knackered then! Have my Fazer 600, and my D4 ZZR1100 currently waiting new sump gasket and side engine gaskets as box blew at 34k..not happy! Hence the switch to Yamaha..
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So, finally got my sump nut off earlier, after the bastard rounded off on me the other day, and i've changed the old oil for the new Westway Oil.
First impressions, it's wet and slippery, so we're off to a good start. :thumbup
I'll keep you posted, although i doubt i'll have very much to report to be honest.
I did buy one of those magnetic sump nuts to replace my OEM one, but the tight buggers must have been on a budget with the metal, it's only got half the threads.
Not that it really matters, you get what you pay for i s'pose, although it does have a 19mm head on the bolt rather than a 17mm one which is better.
Be careful you don't over tighten it. Even at standard torque the thread will have twice the stress on it compared to standard bolt making stripping the thread a possibility
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So, finally got my sump nut off earlier, after the bastard rounded off on me the other day, and i've changed the old oil for the new Westway Oil.
First impressions, it's wet and slippery, so we're off to a good start. :thumbup
I'll keep you posted, although i doubt i'll have very much to report to be honest.
I did buy one of those magnetic sump nuts to replace my OEM one, but the tight buggers must have been on a budget with the metal, it's only got half the threads.
Not that it really matters, you get what you pay for i s'pose, although it does have a 19mm head on the bolt rather than a 17mm one which is better.
Be careful you don't over tighten it. Even at standard torque the thread will have twice the stress on it compared to standard bolt making stripping the thread a possibility
Can't torque it, because a socket doesn't go anywhere near it, the space simply isn't there, so I just nipped it up.
I'm not heavy handed anyway, it's just that the OEM nut was made from too soft a metal, I was pretty peeved when it rounded off as I knew I'd only nipped it up last time I put it back on. :\
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So, finally got my sump nut off earlier, after the bastard rounded off on me the other day, and i've changed the old oil for the new Westway Oil.
First impressions, it's wet and slippery, so we're off to a good start. :thumbup
I'll keep you posted, although i doubt i'll have very much to report to be honest.
I did buy one of those magnetic sump nuts to replace my OEM one, but the tight buggers must have been on a budget with the metal, it's only got half the threads.
Not that it really matters, you get what you pay for i s'pose, although it does have a 19mm head on the bolt rather than a 17mm one which is better.
Be careful you don't over tighten it. Even at standard torque the thread will have twice the stress on it compared to standard bolt making stripping the thread a possibility
Can't torque it, because a socket doesn't go anywhere near it, the space simply isn't there, so I just nipped it up.
I'm not heavy handed anyway, it's just that the OEM nut was made from too soft a metal, I was pretty peeved when it rounded off as I knew I'd only nipped it up last time I put it back on. :\
I would worry that those magnetic plugs that the magnet will come loose. Also how long is the exit tunnel because I feel that if the plug is short then the flow of oil and any bits will just flow over the exit tunnel without actually dropping or being pulled down.
And yes you can not get a socket on to it, a new crush washer each time is the best bet
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So, finally got my sump nut off earlier, after the bastard rounded off on me the other day, and i've changed the old oil for the new Westway Oil.
First impressions, it's wet and slippery, so we're off to a good start. :thumbup
I'll keep you posted, although i doubt i'll have very much to report to be honest.
I did buy one of those magnetic sump nuts to replace my OEM one, but the tight buggers must have been on a budget with the metal, it's only got half the threads.
Not that it really matters, you get what you pay for i s'pose, although it does have a 19mm head on the bolt rather than a 17mm one which is better.
Be careful you don't over tighten it. Even at standard torque the thread will have twice the stress on it compared to standard bolt making stripping the thread a possibility
Can't torque it, because a socket doesn't go anywhere near it, the space simply isn't there, so I just nipped it up.
I'm not heavy handed anyway, it's just that the OEM nut was made from too soft a metal, I was pretty peeved when it rounded off as I knew I'd only nipped it up last time I put it back on. :\
I would worry that those magnetic plugs that the magnet will come loose. Also how long is the exit tunnel because I feel that if the plug is short then the flow of oil and any bits will just flow over the exit tunnel without actually dropping or being pulled down.
And yes you can not get a socket on to it, a new crush washer each time is the best bet
That magnet ain't going anywhere, not sure how they've been secured into the bolt, but the magnet itself won't let go of it anyway.
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That magnet ain't going anywhere, not sure how they've been secured into the bolt, but the magnet itself won't let go of it anyway.
Because it'c a MAGNET. :)
Engine block is aluminium and the bolt is steel. :)
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That magnet ain't going anywhere, not sure how they've been secured into the bolt, but the magnet itself won't let go of it anyway.
Because it'c a MAGNET. :)
Engine block is aluminium and the bolt is steel. :)
Thanks for explaining, that'll be why they call it a magnetic bolt then.
Are you up to speed with sarcasm yet? :lol
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That magnet ain't going anywhere, not sure how they've been secured into the bolt, but the magnet itself won't let go of it anyway.
Because it'c a MAGNET. :)
Engine block is aluminium and the bolt is steel. :)
Thanks for explaining, that'll be why they call it a magnetic bolt then.
Are you up to speed with sarcasm yet? :lol
Nope. Sorry. :)
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That magnet ain't going anywhere, not sure how they've been secured into the bolt, but the magnet itself won't let go of it anyway.
Because it'c a MAGNET. :)
Engine block is aluminium and the bolt is steel. :)
Thanks for explaining, that'll be why they call it a magnetic bolt then.
Are you up to speed with sarcasm yet? :lol
Nope. Sorry. :)
Only kidding fella. ;)
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:thumbup
:)