FZS600gRR unreleased model

[Hedgetrimmer]

Looks good wraith
 
Personally, I'd go for a real smack-in-the-face paint job - if you've got it, foccin broadcast it!

[Ruby Racing]

Nice job. 


Are those Gilles rear sets? And are they specific fitment for the FZS600 or from another model?


Cheers.

[Hedgetrimmer]

Nice job. 


Are those Gilles rear sets? And are they specific fitment for the FZS600 or from another model?


Cheers.

C'mon wraith, 'fess up, what's the full spec? 

[ChristoT]

See, he's nearly there! 

[wraith600]

ok hear goes had the bike since reliese in 98 tried all the fork mods but none done what i wanted so .


suspension front . 2000 rsv mille forks / yokes with a new stem , rsvr magnesium wheel , glaffer disks ,
             KAD 6pot billet calipers . clipons , 2003 R1 master cylinder and clutch leaver mount
             with adjustable leavers .carbon fiber mud gard


           rear     2000 rsv mille swingarm with moded linkige mount ,rsvr magnisium wheel , glaffer disk ,
                    supersprox sprocket , Ohlins remote res rear shock , carbon fiber hugger
            120/70 ,190/55 tyres


     
frame     2002 R1 rear subframe with Harris bodywork and a combined rear light exhaust hanger is a modded stock
           R1 item .
          fairing , sides have been shaved on the top for clearence with the bars indicator and mirror holes
          fiber glassed up with a little extra in side to brace it [internal braces removed ]
          new fairing mounts made from 4mm ally sheet pushing it 60mm forward and 40mm lower
          twin HID projector headlights ,double bubble screen ,vapor speedo ,gilles rear sets [no center stand ]


engine    stock . micron exhaust with a shortend [240mm] performance parts can and home made baffle ,
          [ to be modded again soon ]
          modded airbox with K&N filter , dinojeted carbs , nicko G pack, Kevlar clutch plats and heavy duty springs ,
          0/40 oil [ no i have never had issues] also have extralube and a magnetic oil filter spacer
          and K&N oilfilter , modded sprocket cover ,10mm off set sprocket and extended clutch pushrod ,525 chain
          carbon/Kevlar generator & starter crash covers .
 
power/weight  aprox 93bhp and 180kg [wet]


to do     finish dash [again] the vapor is ok but the rev counter on it is useless,mod the original micron end can
          and put it back on  also mod the pipe from the collector to midpipe rejet and dino again
          fill in the holes around the new head lights and respray all the bodywork.
          looking at various engine tuning options at the moment N/A ,nitros and turbo .
          would like to get it to about 120bhp some one did get a turbo to 140 but then trashed the engine
          all this has been done over the period i have had the bike not all at once .

[noggythenog]

Foooooooooociiiiin elllllllll!!!!!!! , thats some amount of tasty mods buddy.....do you take pills for that


Fair play to you likes that's one original bike.


I dont feel so guilty about my couple of cheap bolt on mods now.


How does it ride?,does it go how you expected, i mean even the standard fazer goes well so what bikes you given a surprise out on the road?

[simonm]

Please can we have more pics wraith?

[Ruby Racing]

           rear     2000 rsv mille swingarm with moded linkige mount ,rsvr magnisium wheel , glaffer disk ,
                    supersprox sprocket , Ohlins remote res rear shock , carbon fiber hugger
            120/70 ,190/55 tyres

Hope I'm not thread jacking here and wonder if you could help me out.


I'm planning on a 180 rear tyre on a different swing arm for my build. Did you have any issues with getting the rear wheel centre in relation to keeping the chain run straight? Did the front sprocket need spacing outwards or any other kind of mods to line it all up?


Are the Gilles rear sets specifically for the FZS600, or for another model?


Thanks.

[Motorbreath]

Do it, add a nitro or a turbo!

[simonm]

If you were to turbo it where would the subsequent weakest links be? Would it be the radiator?

I know nothing about engines but am curious what bits would be in spec and which wouldn't and therefore how much of an impact it would have on the design of the rest of the bike mods and the subsequent cost.

[Hedgetrimmer]

Just some thoughts:
 
A turbo would require flat-topped, forged pistons to drop the measured compression ratio. It would be wise to also do a number of engine-strengthening mods : Shot-peen, or better still, replace rods with Carillo or similar. Are the cranks pressed? If so, weld. Heavy duty valve springs. Heavy duty clutch - not sure what would be best type. Adjustable waste-gate and know what you can set it to, and how to do it by degrees until you reach what you're happy with/won't blow the motor. It may also require some attention to strengthen the gearbox, but I have no idea what you could do in this regard. It's possible that a supercharger could be a better idea, so worth looking into. Nitrous to me seems a pain, as you're always going to be needing top-ups if you use it much, whereas a turbo or supercharger is always just there.
It's not going to be the most common of bikes chosen for these kinds of mods, so don't know what the availability of such parts would be?
 
Back in the day, people also did "conventional" tuning: hairy cams, big bore kits, smoothbore or flat-slide carbs, porting and gas-flowing. It's generally agreed that such engines were pigs for road use - won't idle, snatchy and bog down until you get them on cam, etc. However, there were some notable tuners who could do a half decent job of it, John Carpenter of Mistral fame is the only one I can think of.
I wonder if modern parts and techniques have improved matters in more recent years?
 
It seems almost a shame to have all that beautiful chassis work done and then a have a near stock motor, so you've gotta do something to pep the engine up a little!
 
Dare you tell how much it has cost so far? 

[Doddsie]

I like the front mudguard..... its shiney!!!!!   

[simonm]

I like the front mudguard..... its shiney!!!!!   

Puts your shine to shame eh Doddsie  .  To be fair I don't think yours is far off concours finish so nothing to be ashamed off.  Now my beauty is a bit like Mater from cars "I don't get them dents buffed, pulled, filled or painted by nobody. They're way too valuable." :-)

[Hedgetrimmer]

I like the front mudguard..... its shiney!!!!!   

You need help...

[wraith600]

the Gilles rear sets are specifically for the FZS600, luckley the mille wheel has 10mm more offset than on the fazer but its not a straight swap as you will need a new swing arm  as the stock will not take anything  wider as far as i know ,the linkage mounts on the mille arm also need modifying  as well as the frame as the arm is wider there are 2 spacers on the inside of the frame that need trimming down also the gear box sprocket cover needs moddifing for chain clearance  most of my pix are on photobucket just follow the link , i have not as yet uploaded the latest for the new head lights

[size=78%]http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/wraith600/library/?sort=6&page=1[/size]

[Dead Eye]

If you were to turbo it where would the subsequent weakest links be? Would it be the radiator?

I know nothing about engines but am curious what bits would be in spec and which wouldn't and therefore how much of an impact it would have on the design of the rest of the bike mods and the subsequent cost.

I doubt the radiator is the weakest link - that's an separate system and is mostly impacted by revs but obviously heat does become a concern.

First of all you'd need to modify the carbs I expect and the fuel-air mixture to take advantage of the extra air - compressed air means you can use more fuel with it to produce a bigger bang in the cylinder. The bigger bang is the problem - the pistons and valves need to be strong enough to take the pressure and so does the head and cylinder block. Not sure about bikes, but with some cars you can blow the head gasket quite easily.

I always like the whine of a Supercharger but are they even practical on a motorcycle engine? And I don't mean bikes that have had a seat welded to a car engine that some of the Americans seem to enjoy doing...

[Hedgetrimmer]

There are motorcycle specific supercharger set ups. Also, many turbo kit suppliers will supply carbs specifically designed for those kits. You wouldn't usually be using standard carbs and airbox from what I've seen.
You'd also need to think about the size of turbocharger. As far as I'm aware, car turbos tend to have a greater capacity than the ones most commonly used on bikes, I guess cos they're generally feeding larger capacity engines. But firms out there who supply and fit such systems (eg TTS), can advise and supply everything you'd need, fit it all too, but.......you've guessed it: £££££££££££££!!
 
If you don't do the necessary engine strengthening, you'll blow more than just a head gasket! Picture holed pistons, thrown rods and yer valves in a nasty tangle....

[caretaker]

that pic has been my avatar for ages!! if i had a battered old fazer, i'd try copying that. the fairing is the biggest issue. it would have to be sliced horizontally and remoulded to a certain extent, and a mould taken off that. but i'm currently building a fighter at the mo, so no spare funds. BTW, i need a cheap dr650 so if you know of one....

[simonm]

the fairing is the biggest issue. it would have to be sliced horizontally and remoulded to a certain extent, and a mould taken off that.

The article says the fairing is probably from a fz400 if that helps. I don't know if that was ever released in the UK tho.  I don't know if it's more difficult to make a fzs 600 fairing look like something it subtly isn't.

[Ruby Racing]

the Gilles rear sets are specifically for the FZS600, luckley the mille wheel has 10mm more offset than on the fazer but its not a straight swap as you will need a new swing arm  as the stock will not take anything  wider as far as i know ,the linkage mounts on the mille arm also need modifying  as well as the frame as the arm is wider there are 2 spacers on the inside of the frame that need trimming down also the gear box sprocket cover needs moddifing for chain clearance  most of my pix are on photobucket just follow the link , i have not as yet uploaded the latest for the new head lights

[size=78%]http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/wraith600/library/?sort=6&page=1[/size]

Thanks for the info, much appreciated.


I've got an EXUP swing arm lined up, but it's 10mm too wide to fit between the frame. I plan on getting 5mm shaved off each side of the swing arm, I just don't know if that's possible or not yet. I went for another Yamaha one in the hope the linkages would line up. Certainly the width of the linkage hole on the swing arm is the same and bolt diameter is the same, so that makes life easier.


Why did you need to cut down the gear box sprocket cover? Did you need to space the sprocket out a bit to clear the tyre? Sorry just re read your previous post and see you had to space the sprocket out by 10mm. I assume that was the front one in order for the chain to clear the tyre and/or line up with the rear sprocket?

[wraith600]

yep the front sprocket has a 10mm off set even with a525 chain it jused kissed the clutch arm hence the mod to the casing , dont forget to check the difference between the offset in the stock rim and the new one much more than 10mm and you will be getting to close to the frame , i got my front sprocket from TALON ENGINEERING

[/size]

[Ruby Racing]

So how do you offset the front sprocket? Do you get a spacer machined up or can a sprocket with the required spacer built in be bought? Is that why you mentioned Talon Eng?


This is new territory for me, so sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the wheel offset the distance from the centre of the rim to the centre line of the rear sprocket? If so the wheel I plan to use is about 10mm wider taking that measurement. Just a quick check with a tape measure, nothing highly accurate.

[wraith600]

shaving those spacers on the frame is not an issue that had to be done on mine to you will need to get some stainless spacers made up because of the difference in pivot bolt size , and the sprocket was a one off with the offset built in cost £50

[Ruby Racing]

Great tip on the sprocket from Talon. Thank you.     I didn't know that you could do that. I'll definitely need one of those.


Rather than cut down the spacers on the frame I was going to cut down the swing arm as there is enough metal there to remove. Not sure how to do it, hoping the tutor at my welding class can advise. That way if the swing arm doesn't work I can try another. I had thought about some inserts and may use them, but I'm going o try and find the correct size roller bearings with smaller inside diameter to take the standard spindle.


Are you able to explain the offset to me please, as per below?

This is new territory for me, so sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the wheel offset the distance from the centre of the rim to the centre line of the rear sprocket? If so the wheel I plan to use is about 10mm wider taking that measurement. Just a quick check with a tape measure, nothing highly accurate.

[Punkstig]

Great tip on the sprocket from Talon. Thank you.     I didn't know that you could do that. I'll definitely need one of those.


Rather than cut down the spacers on the frame I was going to cut down the swing arm as there is enough metal there to remove. Not sure how to do it, hoping the tutor at my welding class can advise. That way if the swing arm doesn't work I can try another. I had thought about some inserts and may use them, but I'm going o try and find the correct size roller bearings with smaller inside diameter to take the standard spindle.


Are you able to explain the offset to me please, as per below?

This is new territory for me, so sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the wheel offset the distance from the centre of the rim to the centre line of the rear sprocket? If so the wheel I plan to use is about 10mm wider taking that measurement. Just a quick check with a tape measure, nothing highly accurate.

Surely the point of shaving the spacers instead of the swing arm is they are a shit load cheaper to replace if any mistakes are made,  not only that but an unmolested swingarm will have a higher resale value than a shaved one!