A shame, indeed.  Good to hear all's well, though.

Thanks for the interest!

Hi all,


Time to hang up my leathers ... or more precisely, invite someone else to hang them up for me.   


With both bikes sold a while ago, I'm clearing out all my riding gear and spares.  First up my Alpinestars 2-piece leathers.  In very good condition, never crash tested and all zips/fasteners in perfect working order.


Size labels say 36" waist on the trousers, 42" chest on the jacket.  I found the jacket to be generously sized and had room to wear a full Forcefield back protector underneath.


Comes with knee sliders (not shown on photo) and all internal armour.


Asking £120 plus £15 max for shipping.  Shipping cost is an estimate.  If it comes out less, I'll charge accordingly. 


Cheers!

Slight correction on the previous post.

The basic Ivan's installation uses what he terms as the Slip-On kit.  This one was the original kit that Ivan created which works with either the standard exhaust can or an aftermarket can. Once installed, you can switch between cans without having to make any adjustments to the carb settings.

A year or two after the Gen 1 hit the market, several different aftermarket performance header systems from the likes of Akrapovic, Yoshimura and Muzzy became available and Ivan came up with a second jet kit, the MB kit (stands for Modified 'Box - ie, airbox) which has larger main jets than the Slip-On kit and also a different needle profile.

Ivan subsequently found that his MB kit could be fitted to a Gen 1 with stock headers and a less restrictive can and that provided certain other mods were made to the airbox lid, the air filter and the intake stubs, this gave gains almost comparable with the full aftermarket header systems.  This is the installation which became known as The Full Monty in the UK.

To check which version you have installed, start by checking the airbox lid and air filter.  If the snorkel inside the lid has been cut in half and you find a K&N or Pipercross type filter, you almost certainly have a Full Monty set up.

If the airbox lid and filter are standard, you could still have Ivan's Slip-On kit installed.  To confirm this, remove one of the carb tops and take out the throttle slide.  Look closely at the spring.  If one end has been clipped it will be obvious.  The standard spring end coils form a perfect circle; a clipped end will be bent down by about 30 degs and will not look the same.

If you're still unsure, look at the needle profile.  If it is tapered but totally constant along the exposed length, it's probably a stock needle.  Ivan's needle is made of polished steel and has subtle but noticeable variations in diameter.

Hope this helps.

Ooh, there's lovely, isn't it?

Money well spent!

I might be wrong but I thought Luke sold that one on some years before he passed away.  Nice to see it's still in good condition and clearly been looked after if that's the case.

Those of us who've been around Fazers for a few decades (   ) will recall how much of Luke's genius and commitment went into the creation of that bike, which went through quite a few evolutions before it finished up the way you see it now.

What a great way to be reminded of a really great bloke.

Did you enlarge one or two bypass holes?

It's possible that you have slightly over-enlarged the holes, which is easily done.  I suggest you set mixture screws at 4 turns out, maybe less, to compensate. 

If you installed it correctly, and your motor is in otherwise good condition with no exhaust, EXUP or ignition issues, those dyno numbers are probably incorrect.

Ivan spent a vast amount of time, effort and experience developing his kits.  You do not need to alter any of the jets or the needle installed height ... provided that you have fitted them correctly.

I assume you also modified the airbox lid properly, fitted a free-flow air filter and flowed the intake stubs.

What type of dyno was the operator using?  Also, the part-throttle pulls seem inconsistent between db killer in or out.

That said, the a/f ratio on the full throttle runs does indicate an overly-rich mixture in the mid-range area.  So, the question remains - do you trust the dyno and the operator, or do you trust the accuracy of your kit installation? 

FWIW, it is possible to confuse the main jets for the starter jets.  If you did this and fitted Ivan's smaller main jets in place of the starter jets, the original main jets (130/132.5) would be left in place and they are definitely not compatible with Ivan's needle profile.

A company called IXIL used to do a twin pipe system, I believe.  Probably not available now, though.

Set at 3 turns out to richen the mixture at idle and just off idle.  In fact, 3.5 to 4 turns is better still.

If it starts from cold with no choke, possible that it's been 'Ivanized'.

I assume you're saying very rich because you can smell fuel at idle.  You will.  However, once you crack the throttle, you'll be glad you have that little extra richness.  It's not excessive, either.

Doing fine, Tim - thanks.  Moving back to the UK permanently in May. 

Let me know what you find.

Blocked pilot jets.  I'll put money on it.

The fuel is old, too, so that won't be helping.  Strip and clean the carbs, no need to change jets or settings. 

Also, while you have the carbs out, change the O-rings on the float needle valve seats.

I'm surprised no-one else has commented on the complete absence of oil, grease, dirt or other crap on any single component of the bike in those photos. 

Seriously, when was the last time you saw the underside of a Fazer look that clean unless it was sitting new on the showroom floor?