110 70 17 front tyre

[topgun44]

Hi all have any fit a 120/70/17 on the front do it ride safe .
Thanks all 

[keno]

think it would make turning interesting...

[topgun44]

think it would make turning interesting...

How? 

[Motorbreath]

You have to change the rim. A TRX850/FZR600R/FZR400R will fit. I have one ready that I'll put soon.

But you can install a 170/60 rear, I haven't tried it yet but actually it is the proper size for the 5" wide rims.

[wraith600]

not worth it you will deform the tyre

[topgun44]

thanks people that clear that one up 

[Slaninar]

Hi all have any fit a 120/70/17 on the front do it ride safe .
Thanks all 

Not sure it will fit under the frond fender. Perhaps 120/60/17. But I hear it affects handling. Wouldn't risk it.

[Lumpy]

OMG, thanks for that guys, have been using ones for 20 000 miles now without issues and now I find I need to fit a new rim  . The 120 means that you do not run off the edge of the front tyre when you get right over and is safer if anything. Maybe I should go back to a 110 for safety    oh you guys make me smile. 

[thom_1991]

Fair enough but still your using a 3.5" tyre on a 3" rim so at best its not got the profile that Bridgestone Michelin etc intended.

[2old2boogie]

And would make any potential insurance claim interesting....

[Lumpy]

And would make any potential insurance claim interesting....

really?  you read too many books and listen to too much bollocks 

[Lumpy]

Fair enough but still your using a 3.5" tyre on a 3" rim so at best its not got the profile that Bridgestone Michelin etc intended.

10mm different, 5mm per side. 4,33" as opposed to 4,72" nominally. Fits quite happily on there and means that you still have tread when the rear runs out, I ride on the front so it's good for me. I expect fitting the occasional 190 on the rear of my other bike instead of the 180 is dodgy too    The profile is slightly pulled but so what, not excessive, not dangerous, helps handling, more rubber on road too. Get a grip for pitys sake. I suppose my Renthalls, bar end mirrors, fazer 1000 rear caliper, disc of a thundercat, screen bolts, perch bolts and so on aren't good as Yamaha didn't fit them, goodness knows about the blue flame and stainless downpipes, and oh god the main stand isn't fitted and the rear is jacked up too. It's a hanging for sure 

[Motorbreath]

Fair enough but still your using a 3.5" tyre on a 3" rim so at best its not got the profile that Bridgestone Michelin etc intended.

10mm different, 5mm per side. 4,33" as opposed to 4,72" nominally. Fits quite happily on there and means that you still have tread when the rear runs out, I ride on the front so it's good for me. I expect fitting the occasional 190 on the rear of my other bike instead of the 180 is dodgy too    The profile is slightly pulled but so what, not excessive, not dangerous, helps handling, more rubber on road too. Get a grip for pitys sake. I suppose my Renthalls, bar end mirrors, fazer 1000 rear caliper, disc of a thundercat, screen bolts, perch bolts and so on aren't good as Yamaha didn't fit them, goodness knows about the blue flame and stainless downpipes, and oh god the main stand isn't fitted and the rear is jacked up too. It's a hanging for sure 

Check any tyre brand chart to convince yourself. They explain allowed and recommended tyre sizes per rim sizes. I did not find anyone which allow what you are doing. 110 on 3.5" are allowed but not the opposite. Anyway I'd stick with the recommended fitting. That is why I will try a 170 rear by the way.

[Lumpy]

Check any tyre brand chart to convince yourself. They explain allowed and recommended tyre sizes per rim sizes. I did not find anyone which allow what you are doing. 110 on 3.5" are allowed but not the opposite. Anyway I'd stick with the recommended fitting. That is why I will try a 170 rear by the way.

not sure the 170 will gain any benefit apart from slower turn in. I did fit a 150 on an ER5 instead of the 120 and that was far better though. The 190 on the Bird feels much the same as the 180 too. Give it a go, that's how we find what works and doesn't. The 120 works for me. I still prefer the Roadsmarts to the currently fitted 023 especially in the wet.

[Lumpy]

Check any tyre brand chart to convince yourself. They explain allowed and recommended tyre sizes per rim sizes. I did not find anyone which allow what you are doing. 110 on 3.5" are allowed but not the opposite. Anyway I'd stick with the recommended fitting. That is why I will try a 170 rear by the way.

not sure the 170 will gain any benefit apart from slower turn in. I did fit a 150 on an ER5 instead of the 130 and that was far better though. The 190 on the Bird feels much the same as the 180 too. Give it a go, that's how we find what works and doesn't. The 120 works for me. I still prefer the Roadsmarts to the currently fitted 023 especially in the wet.

[Motorbreath]

Check any tyre brand chart to convince yourself. They explain allowed and recommended tyre sizes per rim sizes. I did not find anyone which allow what you are doing. 110 on 3.5" are allowed but not the opposite. Anyway I'd stick with the recommended fitting. That is why I will try a 170 rear by the way.

not sure the 170 will gain any benefit apart from slower turn in. I did fit a 150 on an ER5 instead of the 120 and that was far better though. The 190 on the Bird feels much the same as the 180 too. Give it a go, that's how we find what works and doesn't. The 120 works for me. I still prefer the Roadsmarts to the currently fitted 023 especially in the wet.

The 170 rear will balance the height with the 120/70 - 3.5" front wheel I just put. Also the 160 on the 5" is flattened theoretically, so maybe the bike will have a faster turn in. We'll see...

[Lumpy]

The 170 rear will balance the height with the 120/70 - 3.5" front wheel I just put. Also the 160 on the 5" is flattened theoretically, so maybe the bike will have a faster turn in. We'll see...

sounds tenuous but we don't find these things out unless we try them.

[Motorbreath]

Not as tenuous as this:

The 120 means that you do not run off the edge of the front tyre when you get right over and is safer if anything. Maybe I should go back to a 110 for safety    oh you guys make me smile. 

On track, with the 110, I had stiffened suspensions (almost not free sag) and put jack up kit and still scratched a lot the pegs without hero blobs and the crash protectors (had to remove them)and even scratched slightly a thin homemade exhaust. The edge of the rear tyre weared a lot. And there was still more than 1 mm of front tyre unused...

[Lumpy]

The edge of the rear tyre weared a lot. And there was still more than 1 mm of front tyre unused...

about 10mm with the 120.
 
Nearly sag free eh, surprised the Moto GP teams aren't snapping you up  whatever works for you.

[Motorbreath]

The edge of the rear tyre weared a lot. And there was still more than 1 mm of front tyre unused...

about 10mm with the 120.
 
Nearly sag free eh, surprised the Moto GP teams aren't snapping you up  whatever works for you.

that last one 1mm was impossible to reach, the bike was scratching already with the peg a bit folded. I do not see the point of having 10mm, also the lean angle you need to reach them will be crazy, no way the bike can lean so much, you will be scratching the frame first... better put the proper rim.

I did not say that almost no free sag is good, I just did it to improve ground clearance.

[Motorbreath]

These people also ride thousands of miles with no issues... who needs engineers?

http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/main.asp?webtag=DarkSiding&nav=start&prettyurl=%2FDarkSiding%2Fstart

[Lumpy]

I do not see the point of having 10mm, also the lean angle you need to reach them will be crazy, no way the bike can lean so much, you will be scratching the frame first... better put the proper rim.

I did not say that almost no free sag is good, I just did it to improve ground clearance.

gawd sakes. The whole point is that you have tyre left, no point getting to the edges all the time. You have a lot to learn, I assume you are young? Please tell me you are young? 
 
To achieve clearance you can lift the back and front, add rearsets, lift the pipe and link pipe but what you do want is NOT to run off the edge of the tyre, that's why racers hang off

[Lumpy]

These people also ride thousands of miles with no issues... who needs engineers?

http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/main.asp?webtag=DarkSiding&nav=start&prettyurl=%2FDarkSiding%2Fstart

I'm very aware of the iron butters but their riding is somewhat different to what you are trying to achieve. Where there is a will there is a way.
 
I assume ALL of your bike is the way Yamaha intended? As this is how it was designed it must be the only SAFE and PROPER way? More than one way to skin a cat. I wish you luck in your quest 

[Motorbreath]

As I told you I did change the front wheel and I am going to change the rear tyre size, so my bike is not like Yamaha intended. But tyre brands say it is fine. Also do motorcycle mechanics books, FG Gubellini suspension, Hel brake lines, and so on. Which engineer told you the 120-3" is right?

[Lumpy]

As I told you I did change the front wheel and I am going to change the rear tyre size, so my bike is not like Yamaha intended. But tyre brands say it is fine. Also do motorcycle mechanics books, FG Gubellini suspension, Hel brake lines, and so on. Which engineer told you the 120-3" is right?

that'll be me, I'm an engineer. Not ideal maybe but better than a 110 for my riding. The point I was nearly making is why are you so adamant this is not good when you are changing many other things that Yamaha will tell you isn't good. They will tell you ONLY use genuine parts for their bikes, you aren't nor am I, because other stuff works. Honda would have a fit if they read the list of mods on my Bird.