Something else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?
It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.


And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs.


 http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722.msg262253.html#msg262253

Also how do I check the TPS to make sure it's in the right position?

Hey guys


Thanks for watching the videos and replying, I will try to answer all the little questions you've had about the bike and how it was started.


1. The bike was started with no choke, in nearly 3 years of owning it I have never had to use the choke, she has started up on the button every time for me, I use the bike all year round and even in the winter she never seems to struggle.


2.The carbs were replaced over a year ago when the old set of carbs started leaking fuel, the new set were balanced after being put on. My last service was in March and she had her carbs balanced then as well however yes when you start her at the moment the RPM needle does go up a tiny bit every so often so I do think she is possible in need of another one soon.


3. The idle is set on 1,200-1,300RPM (Just below 1 and a half thousand RPM basically). Before she was set to 1,700RPM however I was told by a mechanic this was too high and so he lowered to below 1 and half thousand RPM).


4.The exhaust is a Delkevic 200mm Round Carbon Fibre exhaust - There is no baffle in the exhaust


I will give that little pulling in the clutch and listening out for a noise change test a go, hopefully it is not as bad as the most recent comment said, I think I would cry if I needed all that work doing to her, thanks again for making me aware, hope the information I have provided is helpful in anyway possible for any noise you all might of thought was not normal, however I am slightly happy that so far no one has said it DEFINITELY sounds like the cam chain.


Look forward to reading your next comments.


Thanks again to all of you so far.

Hi guys, apologies for the delay in getting these videos out to you, just been a bit busy today, here are the videos of the bike starting up and running from a cold start, I hope you can hear the slight noise I am on about, let me know what you guys thinks, many thanks in advance.


Video 1 - https://youtu.be/-nugTWIdnCw
Video 2 - https://youtu.be/iVoSvls46kI

Hi guys and girls


Recently when I start up my bike she's been making this really noticeable whizzing sound from the engine while she is cold, as she warms up it progressively gets quieter, I'm not saying its louder than the exhaust or anything but while it is sitting there warming up I can definitely hear it and I haven't heard at all in the over 2 years I've owned her.


It almost sounds like a chain going round like the normal chain near the back wheel except for in the engine, I don't really know an awful lot about bikes so I have not even a clue for what it could be.


The reason I'm posting about it now is because tonight while I was riding around I started to hear it when accelerating, this time it was even louder than when the bike is just sat there warming up except for this was after 20 minutes of riding so she was definitely warm by this point.


She is a 2001 FZS600 with over 43k miles, she has never had any work done to the engine as far as I'm aware of (except regular oil and filter changes of course), only thing I've ever done even near that area is replace the carbs after my old ones started leaking fuel, however this work was carried out over a year ago.


Hope someone can tell me what it could be and if it is something to be worried about or if I'm just being stupid.


Thanks in advance guys.

You’re right, it probably is the clutch slipping if it only happens when the oil is cold, you hadn’t mentioned that previously.
Check the condition and adjustment of the clutch cable and make sure the actuator in the sprocket cover is greased and not making odd clicking noises.


Buy some OE springs and a new clutch cover gasket as the old one will probably get destroyed. Replacing the springs is straightforward: put the bike on the sidestand, so long as it isn't overfilled with oil you don't need to drain it.
To do the job you do not need to take the clutch pressure plate off, but if you do want to look at the friction plates don't lose the ball bearing at the tip of the pushrod and do make sure the pressure plate goes back on in the same position when you're done. It is not symmetrical, if it gets put back rotated it'll appear to fit but will give no drive and can get damaged.
 
When reassembling, I like to uses a thin smear of liquid gasket on the engine cases to glue the new gasket in position and a thin smear of non-moly grease on the mating surface of the clutch cover. That way, the next time you take it off the gasket should be undamaged... I've been able to take mine off half a dozen times since without needing to buy another gasket.


Hopefully you now have a Fazer with a healthy clutch. If not, you will need to change the friction plates, but at least you shouldn't need a new gasket.


Finally, the levers at the handlebars often get neglected, Cleaning and lubricating the pivots with heavy grease can make a huge difference to the feel of both clutch and brake.

The clutch plates were only changed about a year ago with OE plates and heavy duty springs, I've been told by a mechanic that they are weak as anything and to go for some other one's he was on about, I can't really remember but basically it was a different sort of clutch plates, I wouldn't mind this all except for the fact of like I said the clutch plates and springs were only changed a year ago

Quote from: Grant1Shepherd on 30 August 2018, 01:39:07 am

Been using the bike for cummuting to and from work recently, I've noticed this problem only appears to be happening when I'm giving it a lot of throttle and moving across a lane to overtake something, all the time it happens when I go up on the raised lines, and earlier there was a small dip in the road and I was gunning it down that road and as soon as I went down this dip (literally a few inches the revs just shot up and the bike was no longer accelerating for a second.


I don't know if any of this is helpful but basically this is the only time it happens, doesn't happen when I'm just riding fast in a straight line or a bend unless there is a change in the surface height.

If it's the clutch then you'll be able to provoke slip at 8,500 rpm with the throttle fully open (regardless of what gear you’re in). A long steep uphill straight is obviously best for this sort of test.
Are you sure the slip isn’t the rear wheel losing traction? If it only happens when the road gets bumpy perhaps you should be taking a look at the suspension linkages, rear shock and tyre.

But then it doesn't make sense why it only happens when the bike is cold, as soon as I've been riding for 10 minutes or more the problem goes away, hence why I thought it might be the clutch as then maybe the cold thick oil is causing problems for it

Hey boys and girls


Wondering if any of you could help me once again.


Recently when I've been riding the bike there will come a moment where I go to throw on the throttle and give it some when all of a sudden I move no where and the engine just starts revving it's tits off, I can't really describe it other then it's like pulling the clutch in and revving it expect for when it happens my hand isn't even engaging my clutch or anything.


It doesn't happen all the time, just occasionally but it's definitely something I want to sort out.


My guess would be the clutch is slipping and my other guess would be that it's because of my clutch plates, however I am no expert and so I thought I'd come on here to ask for some opinions before I spend lord knows how much on new clutch plates only for it not to solve anything.


Many thanks in advance   

As much as I like the one that Fazersharp has I would be looking for something that pretty much covers the whole area like the one Starfazer put the link up for.


I just want the best one on the market, I really like the look of them on the bike, would love to see which one has the best reviews

Thank you so much guys for all the helpful information, I apologise that I needed everything spoon feed to me, all these little bits and bobs of the bike really ain't my strong point, I was originally looking at the yamaha part number for the item and was gonna spend £16-£18 on this bearing, thanks for all your help again.

6200 is a code for a specific bearing - a ball bearing bearing
if the stamped code is for the bearing then a 2663 would be be a roller bearing
just ask your local supplier for a 6200 open bearing and you should be fine
(just put it in your freezer before fitting as it shrinks it)

So any 6200 10x30x9 bearing will do? Only reason I'm asking is because you can buy 6200 10x30x9 bearings on amazon and ebay for 99p

You can use a blowtorch. Turn the old one with the bearing in so that when the bearing falls out it will fall to the floor. Heat up the bearing and the area around it evenly until it just drops out. Place the bearing into the new cover and heat the surrounding area until it drops / requires little force to push it into place. This works due to the metals expanding at different rates

Obviously take necessary precautions, it’ll be hot.

Thanks for the idea but I've already seen someone attempt this, the risk of either breaking the case and/or the bearing is just too high, the crankcase cover is still fixable but I now want a second set of bearings to put inside the new crankcase cover.

I don't know where all this talk of holes is coming from? I didn't have to drill a single hole in mine when I put them on