Date: 20-10-21  Time: 15:29 pm

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Messages - Grant1Shepherd

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1
FZS600 Fazer / Weird clicking/snapping noise from rear end when braking
« on: 16 January 2020, 08:52:18 pm »
Hi all


Currently using the bike a lot for commuting. Yesterday on my ride home in the pouring rain I had to slam on the brakes fairly hard to avoid a car that had switched lanes as I was about to overtake him, not really an issue as I reacted and put on my brakes but as it was so wet and I have the upgraded FZS1000 caliper on the rear disc, I locked up the rear wheel and almost drifted sideways before the bike snapped back up right and facing the right way. As it did this there was this weird click noise from the rear of the bike, throughout my ride today every time I applied the rear brake with a little bit of force I can now this click or snap sound.


I put the bike on its centre stand and tried to see if maybe I snapped a wheel bearing but I don't think it's that.


Anyone got any ideas what could be causing the noise?


Thanks in advance :)

2
https://shop.marksman-ind.com/
Type in FZS600 in the search and it will bring up what you need


Cheers guys really appreciate all your help

3
i had this and ended up thinking it was chain and sprocket when fitting it turned out to be the sprocket carrier bearing
time for new bearings - doesnt cost  much thankfully, and not a bad thing to get done anyhow


Any idea how many bearings would be needed? (how many sprocket carrier bearings are there)?

4
i had this and ended up thinking it was chain and sprocket when fitting it turned out to be the sprocket carrier bearing
time for new bearings - doesnt cost  much thankfully, and not a bad thing to get done anyhow


Hm I hope this is what it turns out to be, there has been a few possible explanations on this post so far.

5
FZS600 Fazer / Clicking/ticking sound when moving bike and rear wheel
« on: 25 April 2019, 03:43:42 pm »
Hi guys


Strange thing has been occurring recently on my 2001 FZS600 Fazer. I've noticed after a ride sometimes after I turn my bike off and roll it into my garage it is make a weird clicking or ticking sound, it happens when moving the bike forward and backwards.


I've put the bike on the centre stand and moved the back wheel and it is also making the clicking and ticking sound then as well.


Any ideas what it could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance :) [size=78%]  [/size]

6
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Heavy/hard to pull in clutch
« on: 28 February 2019, 08:15:00 pm »
I converted my clutch to hydraulic, light years different now, operate it with 2 fingers its so light, and consistent too.


This doesn't sound easy to do? How did you do it? What did you use?


Not difficult at all. I bought a Magura kit from Venhill while I was at the Stafford bike show. Traders are willing to deal at shows and I got it at a really decent price. Everything to complete the job came with it, and it simply replaces the xisting, using the same fittings as for the stock clutch set up. Transformed the bike for me, I was struggling in traffic and on trackdays with constant gear changes impacting on my knucle joints and wrist, if I hadnt of swapped, Id have given up with the bike. No cables to adjust, lubricate, snap on me. Its a trade off as some would think them not cheap. You can get something simlar from China, but reviews and feedback appear to indicate the quality is a problem with them.


This is on my FZ6 S2 Fazer. Youd have to check a kit is available for the older models


From what I can see MAGURA don't have a kit that specifically states it would fit an FZS600, they have one that just states it would fit the FZS1000.


For Venhill I can't find anything that says it could go on a FZS600, it's difficult to buy one when there are 4 or 5 different models yet they don't state what bikes they are suitable for.

7
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Heavy/hard to pull in clutch
« on: 27 February 2019, 12:15:40 am »
I converted my clutch to hydraulic, light years different now, operate it with 2 fingers its so light, and consistent too.


This doesn't sound easy to do? How did you do it? What did you use?

8
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Heavy/hard to pull in clutch
« on: 21 February 2019, 05:13:20 pm »

I see you raised a slipping clutch issue a few months ago and mentioned that the bike had been fitted with heavy duty springs.
If that is still the case it is the cause of your problem.
This doesn’t tally with you only recently noticing the clutch lever is ridiculously heavy of course, but HD springs do make the bike a misery to ride in traffic.


Yeah the clutch a few months ago was slipping like mad and I know for a fact the plates and springs were the EBC heavy duty ones. I hate them, my clutch had to be adjusted for the slipping to stop happening but because I live and ride in London the clutch right now is a nightmare.


Is there a different clutch plate and springs set anyone could recommend? if it meant getting rid of this problem I don't mind buying more than just a cable

9
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Heavy/hard to pull in clutch
« on: 20 February 2019, 11:29:43 pm »
If you look on Wemoto, they do a cable called Slinky Glide.
I have actually bought one, but i keep it as a spare and will fit it next time, but they have good reviews and are only about a tenner.


I've heard about these from a mate of mine and to be honest I debating just replacing my current clutch cable with one of these just to see if it makes my life any easier. I can't go on the way it is currently, every time I go out on the bike my left wrist is killing me by the time I get back.

10
FZS600 Fazer / Heavy/hard to pull in clutch
« on: 18 February 2019, 05:45:31 pm »
Hey everyone


Been having a little issue with my FZS600 clutch recently, it has suddenly become really heavy/hard to pull in, it is causing my wrist to cramp up when riding it is that heavy.


The clutch and the bike works fine but I definitely need to find out the solution to this problem to ease the pain on my wrist.


Hope someone can help. Thanks in advance. 

11
I did not see your comments before buying from the second hand link that was sent in. Have I just brought a broken second hand speedo drive?  :o


No probably not, the broken part we speak of is the rotor sensor which fits inside the speed sensor you have bought from my link, the rota has a broken lug(s), this is the new part (rotor) you have had fitted recently, when you receive the speed sensor you can take the damaged rotor out & throw it away & fit the  replacement Ebay speed sensor.


The Rota sensor/ speed sensor see fig 13.
https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/600-MOTO/1998/FAZER/FZS600/SPEEDOMETER/20_2017-2017/B41/0/23946


Thank you for explaining this for me, I will check the rotor sensor in the speedo drive when it arrives, the one that is currently on my bike I will have to see when the wheel is back off to see if it is not broken, if so, looks like i'll have to buy another rotor sensor.


I know it's a nuisance, but if you bought the one in the link that was given it says "good condition, tested, works", but if you get it and both lugs are broken, which i suspect is the case, then it probably wasn't tested and doesn't work.
Up to you if you want to go down the refund road, or maybe even enquire if they have another rotor they could swap it with.


UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!


The speedo drive I ordered arrived and yes one the the lugs is broken however not both. I decided to take the bike out tonight for a ride and annoying the speedo worked perfectly, at slow speed, when cruising and even when letting off the throttle the speedo would drop correctly, this speedo issue is doing my nut in, can't understand why all of a sudden the speedo decides to work perfectly for me  :rolleyes

12
I did not see your comments before buying from the second hand link that was sent in. Have I just brought a broken second hand speedo drive?  :o


No probably not, the broken part we speak of is the rotor sensor which fits inside the speed sensor you have bought from my link, the rota has a broken lug(s), this is the new part (rotor) you have had fitted recently, when you receive the speed sensor you can take the damaged rotor out & throw it away & fit the  replacement Ebay speed sensor.


The Rota sensor/ speed sensor see fig 13.
https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/600-MOTO/1998/FAZER/FZS600/SPEEDOMETER/20_2017-2017/B41/0/23946


Thank you for explaining this for me, I will check the rotor sensor in the speedo drive when it arrives, the one that is currently on my bike I will have to see when the wheel is back off to see if it is not broken, if so, looks like i'll have to buy another rotor sensor.

13
I did not see your comments before buying from the second hand link that was sent in. Have I just brought a broken second hand speedo drive?  :o

14
Thanks for the links and all your help guys, honestly I really appreciate it as I am proper useless with this sort of thing. I have just bought the used speedo drive, will have it fitted when it arrives and I will update this post on the result of that  :) . Thanks again

15
If the speedo was working fine before today before the work was done then they have either put it back wrong or snapped the lugs off the rota on reassembly.


That did cross my mind as well, it may well have been fine beforehand, but you can't discount the chance that it may have been misaligned when being put back together.
Only one way to find out though.....


Nope the the rotor sensor is fine I was there to witness the work happen, it had loads of grease in there as well, the front wheel bearing he changed has stopped the annoying noise from the video however my speedo is now just completely useless, I went out for a ride tonight and it is just jumping all over the place, the mechanic said the next thing to change would be the speed cable but I'm wary because clearly changing the rotor sensor did nothing.


You can't really 'witness' it being put back right, only by doing it yourself can you 'feel' that it's been done correctly.
Anyone who has had the pleasure of doing this will know exactly what i'm on about.
Don't 100% rule out broken lugs, if it worked okay before but doesn't now then that makes it the prime suspect.


When the noise started is when the speedo started to play up a little (once every 10 minutes maybe) when it went into the garage on Friday he took the wheel off and the rotor sensor still was in good condition and covered in loads of grease however the front wheel bearing had a lot of play, since replacing the bearing and putting the wheel back on the bike stopped making the noise but now my speedo is all over the place all of the time, it jumps from the speed I'm doing to 0mph and it does this over and over and over again.


Surely it has to be something else as the speedo started to play up before the bearing was replaced when I saw the rotor sensor, the only problem I'm having is I can't find whatever speedo wire everyone is on about anywhere for sale. If I can find one I will buy one and probably buy another rotor sensor just to be on the safe side.

16
If the speedo was working fine before today before the work was done then they have either put it back wrong or snapped the lugs off the rota on reassembly.


That did cross my mind as well, it may well have been fine beforehand, but you can't discount the chance that it may have been misaligned when being put back together.
Only one way to find out though.....


Nope the the rotor sensor is fine I was there to witness the work happen, it had loads of grease in there as well, the front wheel bearing he changed has stopped the annoying noise from the video however my speedo is now just completely useless, I went out for a ride tonight and it is just jumping all over the place, the mechanic said the next thing to change would be the speed cable but I'm wary because clearly changing the rotor sensor did nothing.

17
Hi all


Bit of an update, the front wheel was taken off today and the speed sensor was put in correctly and had a lot of grease around it and so the mechanic believes it should be working fine and not causing the noise. He did however replace my front wheel bearing as the one in the bike had a lot of play in it which he believes could be causing the noise. He put the bike back together and I went for a ride and success the noise has disappeared but now my speedo is back to playing up, the needle just jumps all over the place, it'll show the speed I'm going for a second then drop, then rise then drop again etc, however the new speedo sensor looks fine and so I was wondering could this possibly be the speedo cable playing up?


Hope someone can give some insight?


Definitely the Speedo, not the Rev counter?


Nope it's just the speedo, my rev counter is fine, I did a TPS test a few weeks ago and it was perfect, but since my speedo started playing up all I've done is replace the rotor sensor and doesn't appeared to of worked.

18
Hi all


Bit of an update, the front wheel was taken off today and the speed sensor was put in correctly and had a lot of grease around it and so the mechanic believes it should be working fine and not causing the noise. He did however replace my front wheel bearing as the one in the bike had a lot of play in it which he believes could be causing the noise. He put the bike back together and I went for a ride and success the noise has disappeared but now my speedo is back to playing up, the needle just jumps all over the place, it'll show the speed I'm going for a second then drop, then rise then drop again etc, however the new speedo sensor looks fine and so I was wondering could this possibly be the speedo cable playing up?


Hope someone can give some insight?

19
Hi guys


Thanks so much for all your help and suggestions so far, I got in contact with the garage who did the work for me and showed them the camera footage, they have apologised for what they believe is an error when installing the speedo sensor, they are wanting the bike back in next friday to have a look at the speedo sensor and hopefully to put it in correctly.


Thank again for all your help guys hopefully it turns out just to be the speedo sensor

20
Any noise with engine running, bike stationery?,


Did you replace speed rota sensor on front wheel,


Spin wheels check brake calipers aren't seized on , chain to slack/tight or seized links, remove front sprocket cover check front nut & clean out any crap build up.   


The bike does not make any noise when stationery, or at least nothing like this noise at all.


The speedy sensor on the front will was replaced less than a month ago at a garage do you think maybe they didn't grease it up?

21
FZS600 Fazer / Weird rattle/scratching and high pitch noise from engine
« on: 21 December 2018, 08:35:27 pm »
Hi Guys


Tonight I was riding my bike home from work when all of a sudden as soon as I started to get up to about 30/35mph this high pitch squeaking noise started coming from the engine, below 35mph all I can is a rattle or scratching like sound but I have no idea what any of this could mean.


I managed to record the noise on my helmet camera and so feel free to have a listen to the video I've attached (Would recommend headphones).





I managed to get the bike back home and so will now not ride it until I know what this problem is. My bike is a 2001 Yamaha FZS600 with 43k on the clock.


Really hope you can help me understand what on earth is going on with my bike, thanks in advance.

22
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« on: 24 September 2018, 01:19:50 am »
The two lugs that stick out the side of the sensor need to be located properly into the slots of the inner wheel before putting the wheel back onto the forks.
The sensor housing also needs to slide into a notch up the inside of the forks as well making it a bit of a fiddly job. Once you've done it a couple of times and everything is apparent then it will become easier to do in time.
To keep the sensor and housing in place i normally pack the area with thick lithium grease because it is a constantly moving part, which i will also use on the spindle as well after giving it a good clean up.   


Be warned though, if you don't line those lugs up correctly then you will be back to square one and ordering another sensor because as soon as you tighten the spindle nut up you will hear the lugs crack.
I did it the very first time i put the front wheel back on, but it's a mistake that you very quickly learn not to do again.


One of these will last you forever   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-Multi-Purpose-LM2-Lithium-Grease-Car-Wheel-Bearings-Joints-etc-500g/372222336729?hash=item56aa2e1ed9:g:VYoAAOSwW6xahFGi


Thanks for the tips and heads up about the grease, how many rotor sensors are there on the bike? is it just one on the front wheel or is there 2 of them on the front wheel?

23
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« on: 20 September 2018, 11:23:02 pm »
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/search/part/5RB2517G00


The faulty rotor sensor will not effect the setting of the  T.P.S.  :)


Is that what's it called? a rotor sensor, a mechanic just told me it was gonna be a faulty speed sensor?


Thanks in advance for your comments

24
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« on: 20 September 2018, 12:20:32 am »
Something else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?
It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.


And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs.


 http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722.msg262253.html#msg262253



Hi mate, thank you for all your responses so far, I really appreciate it, I have a question about the TPS, if there was an issue with my TPS would there not be an issue with my throttle at all? Because my throttle is perfect to be honest, I have never had an issue with the throttle at all, however I don't really know about this kinda of stuff so please let me know. thanks in advance.



They tend to break down gradually rather than just stop working completely, which is why it can go unnoticed for a while.
Idle can be a little unstable, but it's most noticeable at lower speeds around 2500rpm when you'll need to use the clutch more than normal as the bike can feel a bit jerky to control.
Once you open the throttle right up it's not as bad but will still be wrong.
It's one of those things that creep up on you, and only when it's corrected will you then realize how wrong it was before.


The link i posted above explains how to check it, and what the codes mean.


The TPS is the black gadget that is wired on the right side of the carbs.   


To check it only takes about a minute to do. If you pull the plastic protective cover back towards the left you'll see better where the catch is that needs releasing to unclip it.


Just carefully separate the two parts then turn the ignition key on (don't start the bike).


The RPM needle will go back and forth from 0rpm to 3000rpm. This is showing either a totally faulty TPS.......or......it's unplugged.


Then with the ignition still switched on, just plug the two parts of the TPS back together........and see where the RPM needle goes this time.


5000rpm is the correct position.


If the needle stays on 0rpm or 10,000rpm then the TPS needs adjusting slightly to move the position of the needle back to 5000rpm.




Actually, just click on the above link, it's a bit more detailed, and let us know what you find.


Another useful link here as well     http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0



So basically (sorry to have to dull it down for myself) if the RPM needle goes to 3000rpm at any point during this check, it's a fault code? I don't need no fancy diagnostic machine? The bikes RPM needle will go to 3000rpm if the TPS needs replacing?


If once I put it back together (with ignition still on) and it stays on 0rpm or goes to 10,000rpm it just adjusting?


and if it just goes to 5000rpm, it's fine?


Is that the basic dulled down version?  :lol



3000rpm is unplugged, or TOTALLY knackered


5000rpm is good


0rpm or 10,000rpm needs adjusting........but is a sign it's possibly starting to fail.
So adjust it then keep checking it every other day and see if it has stayed in the 5000rpm position.....if it has moved again then time to replace.


Hopefully it will be on the 5000rpm position and a couple of minutes later you can forget about all this.


If you do think it may be faulty and needs replacing, BUY A NEW ONE. Do not buy a used one, it will just fail on you as well. I bought 2 used ones and they both failed, which is why i know the symptoms so well, but once i bought a brand new one everything has been fine.


This is as cheap as they get if you do need one.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-H-Fazer-2000-Tourmax-Throttle-Position-Sensor/301948941019?epid=647315499&hash=item464d8f32db:g:5hIAAOSwO~VahGo9




IMPORTANT TIP: If your needle does sit on 10,000rpm DO NOT SWITCH THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION. Either leave it on, or start the engine and it will reset itself correctly.
What happens is that simple gravity makes the RPM needle fall to the right side of the clock, instead of the left, so the needle will just sit on the wrong side of the pin near 0rpm trying to turn clockwise, but obviously can't.
If this happens you'll need to take the plastic shield off the fairing, take the clocks off and apart, then physically move the needle anti-clockwise back round to the 0rpm position with your finger.
It's not difficult, just an unnecessary and time consuming thing to do that can be easily avoided. 


And don't forget, you'll need a size T25 security torx key if any adjustment is needed, without that you won't be able to adjust it anyway, although you can do the check to see if the position is good or not.
So either borrow one or buy the style of your choice, but it's worth having in your tool box anyway.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xt25+tamper+proof+torx.TRS0&_nkw=t25+tamper+proof+torx&_sacat=0



Thanks again for the advice and tips, and for the links in case I have to buy the replacement part.


Today whilst I riding my speedo suddenly dropped to 0mph and stopped working even though I was still moving, I pulled over and turned the bike on and off and it all it did was make the speedo sometimes suddenly shoot up to 30 or 40mph and then shoot back to 0mph and stop working, so now I have this issue to sort out as well.


I think it'll be the sensor at the front wheel, when I had my tyres replaced the guy at the shop said they noticed the sensor was a little damaged and probably wouldn't last much longer, looks like 2 month later he is right.


Should the fact that my speedo has stopped working affect this test? it is only the speedo that isn't working, all the other dials and the clock are working fine.


Also do you know what to search for when looking for the speedo sensor at the front wheel? as in the name of it? Don't worry if you don't, you've already helped me out a lot. Thanks in advance.

25
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« on: 19 September 2018, 12:33:37 am »
Something else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?
It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.


And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs.


 http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722.msg262253.html#msg262253



Hi mate, thank you for all your responses so far, I really appreciate it, I have a question about the TPS, if there was an issue with my TPS would there not be an issue with my throttle at all? Because my throttle is perfect to be honest, I have never had an issue with the throttle at all, however I don't really know about this kinda of stuff so please let me know. thanks in advance.



They tend to break down gradually rather than just stop working completely, which is why it can go unnoticed for a while.
Idle can be a little unstable, but it's most noticeable at lower speeds around 2500rpm when you'll need to use the clutch more than normal as the bike can feel a bit jerky to control.
Once you open the throttle right up it's not as bad but will still be wrong.
It's one of those things that creep up on you, and only when it's corrected will you then realize how wrong it was before.


The link i posted above explains how to check it, and what the codes mean.


The TPS is the black gadget that is wired on the right side of the carbs.   


To check it only takes about a minute to do. If you pull the plastic protective cover back towards the left you'll see better where the catch is that needs releasing to unclip it.


Just carefully separate the two parts then turn the ignition key on (don't start the bike).


The RPM needle will go back and forth from 0rpm to 3000rpm. This is showing either a totally faulty TPS.......or......it's unplugged.


Then with the ignition still switched on, just plug the two parts of the TPS back together........and see where the RPM needle goes this time.


5000rpm is the correct position.


If the needle stays on 0rpm or 10,000rpm then the TPS needs adjusting slightly to move the position of the needle back to 5000rpm.




Actually, just click on the above link, it's a bit more detailed, and let us know what you find.


Another useful link here as well     http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0



So basically (sorry to have to dull it down for myself) if the RPM needle goes to 3000rpm at any point during this check, it's a fault code? I don't need no fancy diagnostic machine? The bikes RPM needle will go to 3000rpm if the TPS needs replacing?


If once I put it back together (with ignition still on) and it stays on 0rpm or goes to 10,000rpm it just adjusting?


and if it just goes to 5000rpm, it's fine?


Is that the basic dulled down version?  :lol

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