Failed MOT - stanchions nackered, so need either new stanchions, not cheap, or good forks don't mind if we need to have the seals done etc just stanchions must be good

Will consider compatibles...

Checked out what i need on Fowlers, not too bad but a bit more than OEM i.e. 100 more, however i think if its parts like this then it may be best to stick with OEM unless anyone has used non OEM and got a good result.

OK go some bits out, waiting for some tools before i get the damper out and seperate the tubes..


But for now here is a video, and note the scoring after i pick the phone back up, had to put it down to pull the inner tube up and out a bit





So suspecting to see a bush thats had better days, i dont know how to tell but the scoring is the same on both forks so at 47K maybe that can happen, no idea..

time to make a tool i think....thanks Falcon269....

Hi All,


Thanks for the input, i think i will just go the whole hog and take the forks to bits today, wait for my seals and driver ( got a universal one so i can fo 40-50 diameter forks, so will pay for itself when other bikes need em doing )


I shall have a look at the bushes as well, will be stripping them down today so might post some pics...


Thanks

Anutz

MOT Failed, leaking fork seal...




I noticed some tiny scratches on the stanchion, and the MOT man said i could do the seals again, but will most likely just leak..


Reason for post is has anyone dealt with scratches..?


Anutz

thinking about what MW said, maybe im not doing this correctly, will wind the carb end back in to where it should be and do the adjustment from the throttle...

I am trying to adjust the slack at the throttle, and have ran out of adjustment on the barrel, by manually holding the slack on the decelerator cable i can resolve the issue, the manual say just losen the lock nut and turn the adjuster but unlike the accelerator cable there are never 2 nuts that can both meet at the bracket to hold the shaft in place....makes no sense....

but then i am probably missing something very simple 

Looking to see how much intrest there is in my FZS1000, 99% sure I want to sell, but need a final ride once an MOT is on it to check its all running well as I have had the cylinder head off and not really given it a thrash since, starts fine and sounds fine.

47k Miles ( ish...will double check ), was in a state when I got it i.e. not cleanced, and rusted headers, water pump leak, rear wheel bearing issues, all sorted now.

- Changed Oil/Water Pump
- AIS Mod Done
- New Spark Plugs
- New Chain and Sprocket, as well as rear tyre only seen 200+ miles
- Rear wheel main bearing replaced, kush drive ok
- MOT about to expire, but intend to MOT middle of next month
- System3 Alarm
- One previous owner aside from me
- New MotoBatt Battery as last one was nackered and would not hold charge
- Cylinder head has been off so I could replace some broken exhaust studs and do clearances, new gasket used no sign of any leaks
- EXUP working no 7K signal on startup, but one of the bolts is nackered on the cover, I welded a piece of metal on to fix that
- Carbs balanced as well
- Rear shock is soft, but i am 18 stone, so figures, pre-load is not maxed so could be adjusted, had swingarm and all components off to clean and re-grease bearings, all stock no shock upgrades.
- New Throttle Cables from WeMoto, old one had some nicks

Just don't use it any more as i have a new bike, so its sat and doing nothing, getting in my way as well, so need it gone, and it needs to be used.

Located in North East near County Durham

PM me if anyone may be interested, like I say, need to get MOT first and be happy it rides well before I definitely want to sell, as would not sell a bike with issues, but keen to know the market for it on here, may end up on ebay if no one local wants to take a look at it

Anutz!

So been out, riding past 2 days, and its got power and seems ok, however literally put the bike away an hour ago, go to turn it over to check some things, and withing 5-6 seconds the battery is buggered, relay clicking like mad.


I have ridden for an hour or so before coming home so it should be charged i would think


I measured the voltage ant its 12.4 ish, so seems fine, but as soon as i touch the started, drops to 0v very quickly...


was reading around about electrical gremilins, http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=15299.0


I wonder if this is all due to the battery not having the ability to turn the crank over, and supply good sparks etc


Not tested the voltages of the reg/rec or the battery when it runs, as waiting for the damn thing to charge, if it ever will


how can it read 12.4v and then not work i.e. drain to 0v when i touch it..????


 

Update

Got my hands a compressor and leak down tester...

All pistons were sound, 10-15% leak, only out of bores, no hint of any noise else where

So, I put it back together and re-checked the clearances...

It still is hard to start, but once it starts and warms up, then its fine i.e. no hesitation, and power on tap, so I'm a little miffed...

It just seems to need a right old handful of throttle and then screams into life, engine is smooth, no strange noises, really is fine, timing is 100% spot on, I think the low compression readings were not that low

Speaking to an MOT tester, who has a fzs1000, he has seen a few with readings like that, and they have had no issue, but who knows...

So for now, its summer and I think after a full ride out tomorrow it will do...

I am going to turn my attention to a carb rebalance and changing fuel filter tmrw, don't really want to mess with carbs if it runs well now...

Would love to figure it out

The Leak down test stuff was intresting, and the kit cost me 150 all in i.e. compressor, leakdown tool, decent adapters for coupling....so not been a bad learning thingy

Will have a look at how much the compression tester encroaches on the compressed cylinder volume as sonmeon said that can throw of readings mayde that's whats happened to me...

OK so no luck so far....steps taken...


1. Checked with a Multimeter the continuity and resistance of all the return leads for the Indicators and the lights, all show as ok i.e. 0.6-1 Ohms....and all have continuity...
2. Unplugged and re-plugged all connectors in...


To re-describe the issue, if i turn on an indicator, regardless of which one, then the lights in the headlight unit glow with the same frequency as the indicator strobing.


Its not just the parking light but all the lights i.e. dipped beam as well....


Little stumped...any more tests or things to consider


Have also plugged and re-plugged the flasher relay and also the headlight loom under the tank...

will plug them all back in shortly and see if just that has cured it, else look what to do next...