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FZS600 Fazer / Re: Broken solenoid
« on: 27 April 2017, 02:33:25 pm »
All sorted. It was ignition. One if the cable loose connection. Was stolen before:(
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I could be wrong here but don't you need to fit some sort of inline resistor to get led indicators to work correctly?
Hi everyone. Got a hefty sized trip coming up next month on my 52 plate FZS600, and Im considering some "cruise control" options for the long stretches of motorway that will be involved.
Ive seen plenty of cheapie solutions on ebay, e.g. http://r.ebay.com/nRxZRs
But then I came across something which looks much nicer, and could live on the bike permanently: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/kaoko-throttle-lock-cruise-control-yamaha-fz1-fz6-tdm850-tdm900-xjr1200-xjr1300-mt01-black-or-silver
Its a bit pricey, but I like how discreet it is and that it basically becomes part of the handlebar.
Now the problem is that its apparently for the Fazer 1000 and various other models. Kaoko doesnt seem to make anything for the FZS600, and I dont like the chances or potential costs of asking them to make one for a FZS600 in the next month.
So what Im wondering is, how different are the ends of the handle bar between the FZS600 and Fazer 1000? Are the threads that the bar ends screw in to the same? Is the construction of the throttle side of the two bars significantly different?
Perhaps someone has some other compelling reason not to get this, like "just get the cheapie one instead"?
Or maybe particular suggestions?
Will flick the manufacturer an email too and see if they have any suggestions, though I'd ask here incase someone knew something.
Thanks
It's not just a high beam, it's a passing light as well, you'd have been better off swapping to both H4 instead.
Looks like a fail anyway.
http://www.motuk.com/Motorcycle%20MOT.asp
Could well be the bearings, but binding brakes can cause this too, even when applied. Had that recently and just standard post-winter clean sorted it. Suggest give em a clean at same time as inspecting your bearings.
Andy
Good job that you have changed the nut
Two questions. I see on the pictures the rear wheel is almost at the end of the stretching the chain? Not sure from the picture is that the case.
Do you have enough chain slack, it must be 30-40mm. Do you have measured your chain wear? 10 links must be no more than 150mm long. If it is more the chain has been stretched too far and needs change.
Looking at the photos that Chris has submitted I would be really concerned (unless they are really really poor quality pics) the treads on the shaft look almost non existent as do the threads on the old Nut that is balanced on his knee in the pics (Not that the nut matters as its being replaced) but the shaft really is important, it's a fine thread anyway and it should be torqued up to 94 Km.
Really clean that thread properly (Meth or trichloroethylene) so there in no sigh of any oil, grease or dirt on the shaft thread and the same with the nut (I know is a new nut) as there may be cutting oil on it from where it was factory threaded, use lock tight on the thread and be generous with it, torque setting should factory recommendation 94Kn, but if the thread are as worn as they look in the pics I would be concerned about torquing up that high for fear of stripping the threads off the shaft, bend the new washer over at least two flats of the nut.
someone mentioned Locite superglue in one of the posts but the only problem with that is it may set before the nut is really tight giving a false torque setting.
It seems with all the reading that I have done on the web and in here that it is really really important to get this right otherwise it is a huge expense correcting it if it goes tits up on you.
I hasten to add I am only talking from reading up and not personal experience, as, I have yet to manage to get the fucking nut undone on my .
But I have had a couple of great ideas how to accomplish this from friendly foccers in here.
I have not written the above to be an ogre or someone full of doom and gloom, but a is to nice a bike to be shagged by a stupid loose nut and sprocket.
Best way to find out if a chain is past its sell by date is to compress/push about 10 links together measure it between the centre of two extreme link pins, then stretch it out and measure it again if it is any more that about 8mm/5/16" longer its time to change it, a broken chain will get you off quicker than a 22 year old pole dancer.
Buy yourself a can of chain lube its much cheaper than changing chains and sprockets, I know a lot of guys brush their chains with used engine oil and I sure it lubes the chain fine, but only for as long as it stays on the chain, a quick thrash through the lanes and most of it is on you back wheel rim. I personally like the Motul chain lube is stays dark when dry and sticks like s--t to a blanket, it also means no dirty rear wheel and less chance of an inconvenient broken chain.
And this cat thinks I'm fucking stupid.
Sign up with Bristol motorbike riders , they organise loads of ride outs , there is a ride out next Sunday , meeting at Paulton Rovers FC at 11am but it is a charity thing so there is a donation involved , most of there ride outs are free .
Might just be the picture but do the threads on that shaft look stripped to anyone? I'd be keeping a close eye on that I think they look pretty worn
Does anyone else have fazer with screeching fairing?
I can't stand it!
Cheers guys, near Ipswich Christopher
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
I had the same problem turned out to be the screen was loose. Purchased some screen bolts and all ok.
Not really precise enough, but have you recently done any work on the bike?
Good job that you have changed the nut
Two questions. I see on the pictures the rear wheel is almost at the end of the stretching the chain? Not sure from the picture is that the case.
Do you have enough chain slack, it must be 30-40mm. Do you have measured your chain wear? 10 links must be no more than 150mm long. If it is more the chain has been stretched too far and needs change.