Author Topic: Chain snap :( (Read 10485 times)

davidkent · « **on:** 18 November 2013, 05:23:22 pm »

Hi all.
Some advice really...

I've had my chain snap last weekend.
I've sulked all week and decided that given its winter, there's no urgency, so as you'd imagine, I've ordered a new sprocket cover already.

My main concern in honesty is that where the clutch rod snapped, its left some inside - This doesn't look all that bad and will probably come out... BUT...

The hole has gone oblong..
Everything else looks relatively in order, except for the chain guard which is basically gone.

I've read online vaguely about bushing this or something similar, but couldn't find all that much info.

I'm assuming this is bad news?
Its a 2003 FZS600

Cheers

EDIT: Pics

limax2 · « **Reply #1 on:** 18 November 2013, 09:48:04 pm »

I would be amazed if it had distorted the hole it the gearbox shaft

, so I assume it is just the oil seal hole that has distorted. In which case just remove the retaining plate and replace the seal.
If you can't get the rest of the push rod out from the sprocket end you will need to partly dismantle the clutch and push it from that end. Either way don't lose the ball bearing at the clutch end of the push rod.

fazersharp · « **Reply #2 on:** 18 November 2013, 11:04:29 pm »

Any bits left in the hole---- a magnet maybe to get them out.
I have not seen an instance of a snaped chain on these forums and would be very interested to know the make of chain, any sprocket tooth mods, heavy loads or what caused it.
Any ideas

darrsi · « **Reply #3 on:** 19 November 2013, 01:03:40 am »

Quote from: fazersharp on 18 November 2013, 11:04:29 pm

Any bits left in the hole---- a magnet maybe to get them out.
I have not seen an instance of a snaped chain on these forums and would be very interested to know the make of chain, any sprocket tooth mods, heavy loads or what caused it.
Any ideas

My money's on being fitted incorrectly!

Deefer666 · « **Reply #4 on:** 19 November 2013, 08:38:22 am »

Had a chain snap on my FZS years ago. The broken rod can be retrieved with a magnetic screw driver (just make sure you dont lose the ball bearing that sits behind it. As for the hole going oblong are you sure its not just the oil seal?

limax2 · « **Reply #5 on:** 19 November 2013, 08:40:44 am »

darrsi.
I have heard of some poor quality chain out there being sold as good stuff, don't know if it is true or common though $:\$ .
Otherwise not having enough slack in chain is a good way of overloading it.

His Dudeness · « **Reply #6 on:** 19 November 2013, 01:45:34 pm »

Maybe it was worn out and he didn't change it in time

davidkent · « **Reply #7 on:** 19 November 2013, 04:38:04 pm »

Not had the bike long, i think it was too tight - I'm no expert though and could have been a cheap chain, or a combination of the two.

The oil seal is distorted, as has the hole it sits in, looks like soft aluminium, if this can be changed, ie items 27/28 in this drawing, unless they're something else on the other side? [size=78%]https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/special-pages/model.aspx?brand=4&type=13&year=351310&model=351434&part=351470[/size]

This ball bearing, where exactly does this go? the end of the rod or something? and how does it sit there, I'm intrigued to know this, because people mention it a lot, and i'd have thought surely that if the rod has broken the ball bearing would already have fallen out?
Thanks

Ebme Geek · « **Reply #8 on:** 19 November 2013, 05:12:28 pm »

I think items 27-collar & 28-thrust plate are the other end of the gear shaftbehind the clutch basket, the seal you see by the sproket is item 17. The aluminium is the the engine case itself, so might be possible to glue a new seal in or getting some chemical metal there might be a solution.
The ball bearing is item 19 (other end of the push rod)

get a pic up and I am sure someone will advise best option on ally prob.

davidkent · « **Reply #9 on:** 19 November 2013, 05:23:50 pm »

Tried getting some pics earlier and wasn't easy, plus my camera was being a goon.
Will post what i got up shortly
Cheers

fazersharp · « **Reply #10 on:** 19 November 2013, 05:30:34 pm »

heres what the pushrod looks like. Follow the below link for some info on the pushrod

Quote from: fazersharp on 16 September 2013, 08:38:22 pm

Here is a picture of me with my push rod in my hand------u er misses
I put a very thin layer of engin oil on but still when I pushed it in most of it came off at the rubber seal so I wiped most of it off - I dont think it needs anything

And sorry as it is a perfect shot covering up the oil seal in the background

And here is almost a picture of a good undamaged seal----middle left next to the sprocket

davidkent · « **Reply #11 on:** 19 November 2013, 05:36:29 pm »

Wow, most of its still in there then - I've got 2 short bits out and thats all!

My main concern is the hole, give me 5 and i'll upload the bad pics that i have managed to get

davidkent · « **Reply #12 on:** 19 November 2013, 05:48:47 pm »

Pics are awful and don't really show much, my camera just wouldn't focus!

fazersharp · « **Reply #13 on:** 19 November 2013, 05:55:16 pm »

Your camera cant focus because it cant "see" you need to shine a tourch onto it so the camera can then see to focus and then take the picture - and dont try to get so close

davidkent · « **Reply #14 on:** 19 November 2013, 05:56:51 pm »

That was in daylight haha
Tried alsorts, it wouldn't focus unless it was something miles away

fazersharp · « **Reply #15 on:** 19 November 2013, 06:05:46 pm »

Isnt the push rod hollow,mine felt very light and not solid, if so it would snap way before it oval-ed the metal. Once you have cleaned the gunk off you might see better

davidkent · « **Reply #16 on:** 19 November 2013, 06:12:12 pm »

I have the seal here in the house, its definitely ovaled.
Looked pretty solid, or the bits i have here seem to..

fazersharp · « **Reply #17 on:** 19 November 2013, 06:24:20 pm »

If you look at my picture the bottom of the pushrod as I hold it- the tapered part in two steps, the first step is where it fits (i think into a hollow tube) which i also think is alluminium. The bit at the bottom is what is left sticking out of the hole which is why its rusty and that is the bit you have and that bit is solid

davidkent · « **Reply #18 on:** 19 November 2013, 06:26:31 pm »

Makes sense i guess
The hole on the bike is definately ovaled unfortunately, hopefully there's a way around this

fazersharp · « **Reply #19 on:** 19 November 2013, 06:37:44 pm »

Ah yes if you see my rusty line and then shiney untill the alli that amount of solid is in the hole so I would then think it was possible to oval the metal. As geek says- chemical metal there might be a solution.
To get the hole end back to round and then a new rubber seal

andybesy · « **Reply #20 on:** 19 November 2013, 06:40:59 pm »

Maybe silly suggestion but could a washer be used?

davidkent · « **Reply #21 on:** 19 November 2013, 06:45:53 pm »

Had crossed my mind, I'm not certain how the seal actually fits, could potentially even weld a washer in there

darrsi · « **Reply #22 on:** 19 November 2013, 07:21:21 pm »

Quote from: fazersharp on 19 November 2013, 05:55:16 pm

Your camera cant focus because it cant "see" you need to shine a tourch onto it so the camera can then see to focus and then take the picture - and dont try to get so close

The camera can't focus because it's too close, look in the menu and switch to "macro" for close up shots.
That is presuming he's using a digital phone/camera.

limax2 · « **Reply #23 on:** 19 November 2013, 09:35:02 pm »

Quote from: davidkent on 19 November 2013, 06:45:53 pm

Had crossed my mind, I'm not certain how the seal actually fits, could potentially even weld a washer in there

Wow

. I don't understand why you would want to weld a washer there $:\$ .
Looking at your overall photo it looks like the steel tab that stops the oil seal coming out has been bent down. By this I mean the steel plate that is held in place by two 6mm cap head screws, one directly above the sprocket and one below the sprocket. Item 36 in this link https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/special-pages/model.aspx?brand=4&type=13&year=351310&model=351434&part=351467 That plate acts to stop the drive shaft oil seal moving out and also part of the plate just covers the push-rod seal to stop that dropping out. Normally it shouldn't be doing much but in your case it could be a good thing.

This is what I suggest.
1. Get the rest of the push rod out. If the steel bit you have looks brocken then there should still be some in the rest of the push-rod, so as suggested before a magnetic screw driver might work. If all the steel end has come out then you might get a grip on the alloy tube with a long wood screw or something. If not then it's off with the clutch cover and tackle it from that side.
2. Replace the oil seal. As long as there is enough undamaged crankcase hole to locate the new oil seal in the correct position, (there will be), put the oil seal in and fill any gaps with chemical metal as suggested by fazersharp.
3. Make sure that oil seal cover plate is ok. If not get a new one or make a better one.
4. Fit replacement push rod and outer cover.
5. Follow instructions for setting clutch cable and away you go.
The end.

fazersharp · « **Reply #24 on:** 19 November 2013, 09:54:35 pm »

To be fair ebme geek said it first (chem metal)
I have a question----- how wet is the clutch or is it sort of splashed with oil. when I took out my pushrod -yes the seal MAY of wiped off most of any oil there but ive pushed it in and out and the hole as far as I can see has nothing more that a thin layer of oil in there. And the seal was not tight.
What Im saying is how good a seal do you need there