https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/ Thu, 30 Apr 2026 09:37:37 +0000 MyBB https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=76226 Mon, 25 Jul 2016 18:40:33 +0100 Erik 75]]> https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=76226 Hello chaps,

Today when i'm back from my oil change and stopped at home i've noticed this.
Some rubber tube has been cutted by the chain, but i don't know what tube is that.
If someone have any idea don't keep it for himself please!

Few pictures in the attachment!

Please help!


  fazer 2.jpg (Size: 119.73 KB / Downloads: 4)

  fazer 3.jpg (Size: 104.01 KB / Downloads: 4)

  fazer 4.jpg (Size: 128.74 KB / Downloads: 3)

  fazer 5.jpg (Size: 91.21 KB / Downloads: 4) ]]> Hello chaps,

Today when i'm back from my oil change and stopped at home i've noticed this.
Some rubber tube has been cutted by the chain, but i don't know what tube is that.
If someone have any idea don't keep it for himself please!

Few pictures in the attachment!

Please help!


  fazer 2.jpg (Size: 119.73 KB / Downloads: 4)

  fazer 3.jpg (Size: 104.01 KB / Downloads: 4)

  fazer 4.jpg (Size: 128.74 KB / Downloads: 3)

  fazer 5.jpg (Size: 91.21 KB / Downloads: 4) ]]> https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=74609 Sat, 02 Jan 2016 03:12:16 +0000 StrippedSprocketNut]]> https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=74609
  IMG_0563.JPG (Size: 118.43 KB / Downloads: 3) ]]>
  IMG_0563.JPG (Size: 118.43 KB / Downloads: 3) ]]> https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=70044 Thu, 21 Aug 2014 14:41:08 +0100 rez0]]> https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=70044
can you tell me every single detail of your `1 cheapest Minute Or your whole hour, day, week, month, year or your whole life ??

if you are not able to tell me about this life then what proof do you have that you didn't forget your past ? and that you will not forget this present life in the future ?

that is Fact that Supreme Lord Krishna exists but we posses no such intelligence to understand him.
there is also next life. and i already proved you that no scientist, no politician, no so-called intelligent man in this world is able to understand this Truth. cuz they are imagining. and you cannot imagine what is god, who is god, what is after life etc.
_______
for example :Your father existed before your birth. you cannot say that before your birth your father don,t exists.

So you have to ask from mother, "Who is my father?" And if she says, "This gentleman is your father," then it is all right. It is easy.
Otherwise, if you makes research, "Who is my father?" go on searching for life; you'll never find your father.

( now maybe...maybe you will say that i will search my father from D.N.A, or i will prove it by photo's, or many other thing's which i will get from my mother and prove it that who is my Real father.{ So you have to believe the authority. who is that authority ? she is your mother. you cannot claim of any photo's, D.N.A or many other things without authority ( or ur mother ).

if you will show D.N.A, photo's, and many other proofs from other women then your mother. then what is use of those proofs ??} )

same you have to follow real authority. "Whatever You have spoken, I accept it," Then there is no difficulty. And You are accepted by Devala, Narada, Vyasa, and You are speaking Yourself, and later on, all the acaryas have accepted. Then I'll follow.
I'll have to follow great personalities. The same reason mother says, this gentleman is my father. That's all. Finish business. Where is the necessity of making research? All authorities accept Krsna, the Supreme Personality of Godhead. You accept it; then your searching after God is finished.

Why should you waste your time?
_______
all that is you need is to hear from authority ( same like mother ). and i heard this truth from authority " Srila Prabhupada " he is my spiritual master.
im not talking these all things from my own.
___________

in this world no `1 can be Peace full. this is all along Fact.

cuz we all are suffering in this world 4 Problems which are Disease, Old age, Death, and Birth after Birth.

tell me are you really happy ?? you can,t be happy if you will ignore these 4 main problem. then still you will be Forced by Nature.
___________________

if you really want to be happy then follow these 6 Things which are No illicit sex, No gambling, No drugs ( No tea & coffee ), No meat-eating ( No onion & garlic's )

5th thing is whatever you eat `1st offer it to Supreme Lord Krishna. ( if you know it what is Guru parama-para then offer them food not direct Supreme Lord Krishna )

and 6th " Main Thing " is you have to Chant " hare krishna hare krishna krishna krishna hare hare hare rama hare rama rama rama hare hare ".
_______________________________
If your not able to follow these 4 things no illicit sex, no gambling, no drugs, no meat-eating then don,t worry but chanting of this holy name ( Hare Krishna Maha-Mantra ) is very-very and very important.

Chant " hare krishna hare krishna krishna krishna hare hare hare rama hare rama rama rama hare hare " and be happy.

if you still don,t believe on me then chant any other name for 5 Min's and chant this holy name for 5 Min's and you will see effect. i promise you it works And chanting at least 16 rounds ( each round of 108 beads ) of the Hare Krishna maha-mantra daily.
____________
Here is no Question of Holy Books quotes, Personal Experiences, Faith or Belief. i accept that Sometimes Faith is also Blind. Here is already Practical explanation which already proved that every`1 else in this world is nothing more then Busy Foolish and totally idiot.
_________________________
Source(s):
every `1 is already Blind in this world and if you will follow another Blind then you both will fall in hole. so try to follow that person who have Spiritual Eyes who can Guide you on Actual Right Path. ( my Authority & Guide is my Spiritual Master " Srila Prabhupada " )
_____________
if you want to see Actual Purpose of human life then see this link : ( www.asitis.com {Bookmark it })
read it complete. ( i promise only readers of this book that they { he/she } will get every single answer which they want to know about why im in this material world, who im, what will happen after this life, what is best thing which will make Human Life Perfect, and what is perfection of Human Life. ) purpose of human life is not to live like animal cuz every`1 at present time doing 4 thing which are sleeping, eating, sex & fear. purpose of human life is to become freed from Birth after birth, Old Age, Disease, and Death.]]>
can you tell me every single detail of your `1 cheapest Minute Or your whole hour, day, week, month, year or your whole life ??

if you are not able to tell me about this life then what proof do you have that you didn't forget your past ? and that you will not forget this present life in the future ?

that is Fact that Supreme Lord Krishna exists but we posses no such intelligence to understand him.
there is also next life. and i already proved you that no scientist, no politician, no so-called intelligent man in this world is able to understand this Truth. cuz they are imagining. and you cannot imagine what is god, who is god, what is after life etc.
_______
for example :Your father existed before your birth. you cannot say that before your birth your father don,t exists.

So you have to ask from mother, "Who is my father?" And if she says, "This gentleman is your father," then it is all right. It is easy.
Otherwise, if you makes research, "Who is my father?" go on searching for life; you'll never find your father.

( now maybe...maybe you will say that i will search my father from D.N.A, or i will prove it by photo's, or many other thing's which i will get from my mother and prove it that who is my Real father.{ So you have to believe the authority. who is that authority ? she is your mother. you cannot claim of any photo's, D.N.A or many other things without authority ( or ur mother ).

if you will show D.N.A, photo's, and many other proofs from other women then your mother. then what is use of those proofs ??} )

same you have to follow real authority. "Whatever You have spoken, I accept it," Then there is no difficulty. And You are accepted by Devala, Narada, Vyasa, and You are speaking Yourself, and later on, all the acaryas have accepted. Then I'll follow.
I'll have to follow great personalities. The same reason mother says, this gentleman is my father. That's all. Finish business. Where is the necessity of making research? All authorities accept Krsna, the Supreme Personality of Godhead. You accept it; then your searching after God is finished.

Why should you waste your time?
_______
all that is you need is to hear from authority ( same like mother ). and i heard this truth from authority " Srila Prabhupada " he is my spiritual master.
im not talking these all things from my own.
___________

in this world no `1 can be Peace full. this is all along Fact.

cuz we all are suffering in this world 4 Problems which are Disease, Old age, Death, and Birth after Birth.

tell me are you really happy ?? you can,t be happy if you will ignore these 4 main problem. then still you will be Forced by Nature.
___________________

if you really want to be happy then follow these 6 Things which are No illicit sex, No gambling, No drugs ( No tea & coffee ), No meat-eating ( No onion & garlic's )

5th thing is whatever you eat `1st offer it to Supreme Lord Krishna. ( if you know it what is Guru parama-para then offer them food not direct Supreme Lord Krishna )

and 6th " Main Thing " is you have to Chant " hare krishna hare krishna krishna krishna hare hare hare rama hare rama rama rama hare hare ".
_______________________________
If your not able to follow these 4 things no illicit sex, no gambling, no drugs, no meat-eating then don,t worry but chanting of this holy name ( Hare Krishna Maha-Mantra ) is very-very and very important.

Chant " hare krishna hare krishna krishna krishna hare hare hare rama hare rama rama rama hare hare " and be happy.

if you still don,t believe on me then chant any other name for 5 Min's and chant this holy name for 5 Min's and you will see effect. i promise you it works And chanting at least 16 rounds ( each round of 108 beads ) of the Hare Krishna maha-mantra daily.
____________
Here is no Question of Holy Books quotes, Personal Experiences, Faith or Belief. i accept that Sometimes Faith is also Blind. Here is already Practical explanation which already proved that every`1 else in this world is nothing more then Busy Foolish and totally idiot.
_________________________
Source(s):
every `1 is already Blind in this world and if you will follow another Blind then you both will fall in hole. so try to follow that person who have Spiritual Eyes who can Guide you on Actual Right Path. ( my Authority & Guide is my Spiritual Master " Srila Prabhupada " )
_____________
if you want to see Actual Purpose of human life then see this link : ( www.asitis.com {Bookmark it })
read it complete. ( i promise only readers of this book that they { he/she } will get every single answer which they want to know about why im in this material world, who im, what will happen after this life, what is best thing which will make Human Life Perfect, and what is perfection of Human Life. ) purpose of human life is not to live like animal cuz every`1 at present time doing 4 thing which are sleeping, eating, sex & fear. purpose of human life is to become freed from Birth after birth, Old Age, Disease, and Death.]]> https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=56729 Wed, 07 Dec 2011 20:14:58 +0000 2ze]]> https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=56729 https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=55686 Mon, 01 Nov 2010 20:48:25 +0000 MikeRBiker]]> https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=55686
Heres my account, and would suggest reading through other postings as well, as thats what I went by. Sorry, no photos but havent moved into digital age yet.

Tools / materials required
For the actual job.
1 to 1.5m of suitable wire. (Cost about 1.00)
(Black is least conspicuous or green if you wish to comply with colour of feed wire.)
1 x 8mm right angled female spade connector.
(About 50p from vehicle electrical outlet or scrap car/bike dealer for nothing.)
1 or 2 suitable wire connector for new connection. (Spade or bullet connectors, about 50p again.)
1 pair wire crimpers / cutters. (Pliers may suffice.)
1 length of wood or similar to support tank open. About 45 to 60cm or so.
New brighter headlight bulbs ? If youre considering upgrading bulbs nows a good time to do it.

For access to parts.
4mm hex key.
5mm hex key.
10mm spanner or socket.
Philips screw driver.

Preparation
Disconnect and remove both right and left fairing inners, as tank cannot be lifted with them in place.
2 bolts on outside of fairing each side, 1 either side of clocks, and tiny plastic screw under mirror stalks. (4mm hex key + Philips screw driver)
Unlock and remove seat to allow tank to be raised.
Disconnect 2 fuel tank front mounting bolts + raise tank. (5mm hex key)
Support with piece of wood propped against head stock.
Disconnect battery for safety purposes. (10mm socket or Phillips screw driver)
Switch of fuel supply. (I didnt bother with this bit though.)

Trace wiring loom from left handlebar control to where it meets with a multi connector.

This connector is located behind the headstock, just in front of battery box, with wires feeding to it through an opening in LHS of frame. (There is no connection box as on previous models.)
Pull 2 halves of multi connector apart for clarity.
You will see (I think) 11 wires from handlebar to connector and only 10 coming out the other side.
The spare GREEN feed wire is the one we want.

Connections
Cut or prise this wire free from connector.
Crimp new female insulated connector to green wire and male to new wire and connect together, possibly wrap in insulating tape or heat shrink to keep water out.
Run new wire through frame opening and follow main wiring loom around LHS of fairing, under the lights on towards RH headlight, securing in place with insulating tape or tie wraps as you see fit.

You will notice there are more multi wiring connectors on the inside of LH fairing.
I put a further bullet connector here so that, should I ever need to remove the fairing, I can disconnect all wires at one place without requiring access to the other connectors.

At the headlight.
Cut wire to appropriate length, allowing a little slack to man-handle it.
Crimp 8mm right angled spade connector to wire.
Remove light connector block from light and open flap on back to gain access.
Insert 8mm spade into the free space in connector and push in firmly.
Push connector onto headlight.
Tidy up any loose wire in the vicinity.

At this point refit / reconnect the battery and check everything works OK. WHICH IT WILL.
Both lights should now work on dipped beam, and the RH one will go out in preference for the other filament on full beam.
If theres any problem, check all connections, otherwise start to put everything back together.

Reassembly
Tighten up any other connections in the vicinity of battery and connectors that may have been loosened to gain access.
Turn petrol back on.
Lower petrol tank + secure.
THEN refit fairing inners.
Refit the rubber boots that go around mirror stalks.
Notice that there are rubber knobs on the rear of these gaiters which locate into holes in fairing.
Take a few seconds to locate these correctly for a good fit.
Refit seat.
Start bike to ensure no other issues. (See footnote)

AND THATS ABOUT IT !
EASY, EH ?


Now the points where I had a bit of hassle.

The multi connector located at the rear of the headstock is poked into a very tight space through an opening in the main frame on the LHS.

Unfortunately, on my bike, the wiring loom had very little slack in it and due to other cables routing through the same opening there wasnt sufficient space to pull the whole connector through this opening in order to reach the wire that you want. 

So, if yours is the same, here you have 2 options.
1. Simply cut the GREEN wire at the most accessible point + make connection there.
(In retrospect, although not ideal, this is perhaps the easiest option.) 
2. Continue to rummage around until you are able to free the connector.
(The choice I took + was somewhat more fiddly.) 

The reason I persevered was simply that I was not confident enough to go cutting wires until I was 100% convinced that it was not already connected to something else !!
However I can now confirm that it IS the GREEN wire which you require, however it is up to you to determine where it is safe to cut.

In order to gain enough free space to get at the multi connector I ended up removing the battery, and loosening the battery tray and various other bits and bobs in the vicinity so I could get my fat hands far enough in to wiggle the connector free.
None of this was difficult but it was pretty fiddly and frustrating given that I expected this to be a very quick job. Hence I refer you back to option 1 above !

Once you have the connector free proceed as in the main text above.
NB - The only difficult bit was getting TO the connector.
Once I had that free, it was extremely easy.


Problem starting bike ?
If the bike wont start, do not immediately assume you have mucked up something major in the ignition, immobiliser or alarm. Remember to check that the kill switch hasn’t been knocked by accident !!
This will be obvious to experienced bikers but somebody else WILL forget, AS I DID !!!   

Good luck and dont be put off by my lengthy description.
I may have just been unlucky !

Cheers.
Rich.

NB. This is purely an account of my experience, and I obviously accept no liability for any mistakes, accidents, or other consequences however caused, of anyone choosing to follow a similar process.
You do so at your own risk.

*****

I've had a look at this in more detail and can confirm that the connection plug is in a right bitch of a place.

One thing you new guy's will have to be careful of is cutting wires its a sure way of defaulting your warranty.

RD's idea of an intermediate connection is a good idea for isolation for fairing removal and MOT's.

The connection in the plug is reversed from the old style ones, to marry up the plug correctly you should use a male connector. With the right fitments you would only have to push in the new extra connector into the block job done.

*****

This is my account of what happened today.........

I lifted tank, and decided I was gonna go the whole hog of removing stuff to get to connector, so removed battery, hoping to take battery box out, realised that the air box was holding battery box in, removed top of air box, but still the battery box lugs were underneath this, since the battery box was of flimsy plastic, I pushed the lugs out but to no avail - the battery box looked like it was staying where it was !!  ...... a bit more thinking.... the electrical device in front of the battery box (starter soleniod??) if only I could move that me thinks, then I'd have access, realised this was held in by a plastic lug on one side and a very inaccessable screw on the other. So I pushed the plastic lug out, then pulled this device up at about a 45 degree angle, then pulling the flimsy battery box forward, I had access to the connector, and pulled it out.... at last !! I had access, then it was the easy matter of locating the green wire pulling the spade out and soldering a length of wire onto it.

I refitted everything and fired bike up, and checked ALL the switches thank god, everything is working.......

Tomorrow I will do the easy task of fitting the wire to the headlight.

Will report back tomorrow if it works.

I guess since the bike was designed to work with two lights as the wiring is all there, then the battery, alternator and related electrical items will be up to powering two headlights??? I do short journeys to work so I am fitting an inline fuse, I may disconnect the headlight for the short journey to prevent a flat battery. - and just use the two lights for long journeys.

..................finished off this morning with the wiring, included a inline fuse but I only had a 7.5amp fuse and I see from the handbook the headlight fuse should be 20amp - so it may blow, anyone know the amps/volts/watts equation?

The lights work correctly ie turn ignition on, no lights, fire bike up and both lights come on just as bike fires   

*****

got answer from google..

For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp

so for one headlight at 55watts = a 4.5amp fuse at minimum so 7.5 is about right.

for headlight and main beam it works out at 10amps so the handbook at 20amps seems right too.

*****
MOST IMPORTANT!!!!!

Remember that the lights dont come on until the engine is running!!!!!!! Before you double check and triple check the wiring loom.
*****

I just completed this mod and can also confirm that it was the thick lighter green cable for me (there is another thinner darker green cable which shouldn't be touched). I didn't bother removing the battery etc. as it seemed like an awful lot of hassle. I just removed the tape from around the wires that originate from the LHS handlebar right by where they disappear into the LHS of the frame. This exposed the 11 wires as described in other posts. I then cut the green with my fingers crossed, completed the rest of the work and hey presto. Looks great. Will report if I have any battery problems.



*****

Having done this on my FZ6 - I was asked to do it for someone else so I took pictures this time.

Wired up the headlight first with the right angled connector, notice the in line fuse. (wiring to be tidied up later)


removed fairing pieces to enable tank to be lifted, removed battery...




next :- see the electrical component in front of battery box, one side its bolted on (no access to bolt) the other side is held in place with a plastic lug remove this (where finger is pointed)



next swing this electrical component up and try to wiggle connector out from below (NOT EASY) here, the wiring of connector is just appearing....


wiggle connector out (NOT EASY)


having got the damn thing out, split the connector like so.


Now look at the pins, both have four on one side and six on the other, but there's an odd pin in the middle, pull this one out, it will be the thicker green wire



solder the wire running to your headlight, the rubber sleeve has been replaced over the connector (which is why it is now hidden)


Finally tuck everything away, wire here just needs tucking away now....


NB, by removing the battery, it gives a bit more room cos then the battery box can be pushed in somewhat, and swinging the electrical component to one side, there's just enough access to locate the connecter.

be warned, it aint easy.


Phil.


Originally contributed by RD, The Bean Machine, Thanos, deefer 666, whapper, Bluecray 3/2004-6/2007
]]>
Heres my account, and would suggest reading through other postings as well, as thats what I went by. Sorry, no photos but havent moved into digital age yet.

Tools / materials required
For the actual job.
1 to 1.5m of suitable wire. (Cost about 1.00)
(Black is least conspicuous or green if you wish to comply with colour of feed wire.)
1 x 8mm right angled female spade connector.
(About 50p from vehicle electrical outlet or scrap car/bike dealer for nothing.)
1 or 2 suitable wire connector for new connection. (Spade or bullet connectors, about 50p again.)
1 pair wire crimpers / cutters. (Pliers may suffice.)
1 length of wood or similar to support tank open. About 45 to 60cm or so.
New brighter headlight bulbs ? If youre considering upgrading bulbs nows a good time to do it.

For access to parts.
4mm hex key.
5mm hex key.
10mm spanner or socket.
Philips screw driver.

Preparation
Disconnect and remove both right and left fairing inners, as tank cannot be lifted with them in place.
2 bolts on outside of fairing each side, 1 either side of clocks, and tiny plastic screw under mirror stalks. (4mm hex key + Philips screw driver)
Unlock and remove seat to allow tank to be raised.
Disconnect 2 fuel tank front mounting bolts + raise tank. (5mm hex key)
Support with piece of wood propped against head stock.
Disconnect battery for safety purposes. (10mm socket or Phillips screw driver)
Switch of fuel supply. (I didnt bother with this bit though.)

Trace wiring loom from left handlebar control to where it meets with a multi connector.

This connector is located behind the headstock, just in front of battery box, with wires feeding to it through an opening in LHS of frame. (There is no connection box as on previous models.)
Pull 2 halves of multi connector apart for clarity.
You will see (I think) 11 wires from handlebar to connector and only 10 coming out the other side.
The spare GREEN feed wire is the one we want.

Connections
Cut or prise this wire free from connector.
Crimp new female insulated connector to green wire and male to new wire and connect together, possibly wrap in insulating tape or heat shrink to keep water out.
Run new wire through frame opening and follow main wiring loom around LHS of fairing, under the lights on towards RH headlight, securing in place with insulating tape or tie wraps as you see fit.

You will notice there are more multi wiring connectors on the inside of LH fairing.
I put a further bullet connector here so that, should I ever need to remove the fairing, I can disconnect all wires at one place without requiring access to the other connectors.

At the headlight.
Cut wire to appropriate length, allowing a little slack to man-handle it.
Crimp 8mm right angled spade connector to wire.
Remove light connector block from light and open flap on back to gain access.
Insert 8mm spade into the free space in connector and push in firmly.
Push connector onto headlight.
Tidy up any loose wire in the vicinity.

At this point refit / reconnect the battery and check everything works OK. WHICH IT WILL.
Both lights should now work on dipped beam, and the RH one will go out in preference for the other filament on full beam.
If theres any problem, check all connections, otherwise start to put everything back together.

Reassembly
Tighten up any other connections in the vicinity of battery and connectors that may have been loosened to gain access.
Turn petrol back on.
Lower petrol tank + secure.
THEN refit fairing inners.
Refit the rubber boots that go around mirror stalks.
Notice that there are rubber knobs on the rear of these gaiters which locate into holes in fairing.
Take a few seconds to locate these correctly for a good fit.
Refit seat.
Start bike to ensure no other issues. (See footnote)

AND THATS ABOUT IT !
EASY, EH ?


Now the points where I had a bit of hassle.

The multi connector located at the rear of the headstock is poked into a very tight space through an opening in the main frame on the LHS.

Unfortunately, on my bike, the wiring loom had very little slack in it and due to other cables routing through the same opening there wasnt sufficient space to pull the whole connector through this opening in order to reach the wire that you want. 

So, if yours is the same, here you have 2 options.
1. Simply cut the GREEN wire at the most accessible point + make connection there.
(In retrospect, although not ideal, this is perhaps the easiest option.) 
2. Continue to rummage around until you are able to free the connector.
(The choice I took + was somewhat more fiddly.) 

The reason I persevered was simply that I was not confident enough to go cutting wires until I was 100% convinced that it was not already connected to something else !!
However I can now confirm that it IS the GREEN wire which you require, however it is up to you to determine where it is safe to cut.

In order to gain enough free space to get at the multi connector I ended up removing the battery, and loosening the battery tray and various other bits and bobs in the vicinity so I could get my fat hands far enough in to wiggle the connector free.
None of this was difficult but it was pretty fiddly and frustrating given that I expected this to be a very quick job. Hence I refer you back to option 1 above !

Once you have the connector free proceed as in the main text above.
NB - The only difficult bit was getting TO the connector.
Once I had that free, it was extremely easy.


Problem starting bike ?
If the bike wont start, do not immediately assume you have mucked up something major in the ignition, immobiliser or alarm. Remember to check that the kill switch hasn’t been knocked by accident !!
This will be obvious to experienced bikers but somebody else WILL forget, AS I DID !!!   

Good luck and dont be put off by my lengthy description.
I may have just been unlucky !

Cheers.
Rich.

NB. This is purely an account of my experience, and I obviously accept no liability for any mistakes, accidents, or other consequences however caused, of anyone choosing to follow a similar process.
You do so at your own risk.

*****

I've had a look at this in more detail and can confirm that the connection plug is in a right bitch of a place.

One thing you new guy's will have to be careful of is cutting wires its a sure way of defaulting your warranty.

RD's idea of an intermediate connection is a good idea for isolation for fairing removal and MOT's.

The connection in the plug is reversed from the old style ones, to marry up the plug correctly you should use a male connector. With the right fitments you would only have to push in the new extra connector into the block job done.

*****

This is my account of what happened today.........

I lifted tank, and decided I was gonna go the whole hog of removing stuff to get to connector, so removed battery, hoping to take battery box out, realised that the air box was holding battery box in, removed top of air box, but still the battery box lugs were underneath this, since the battery box was of flimsy plastic, I pushed the lugs out but to no avail - the battery box looked like it was staying where it was !!  ...... a bit more thinking.... the electrical device in front of the battery box (starter soleniod??) if only I could move that me thinks, then I'd have access, realised this was held in by a plastic lug on one side and a very inaccessable screw on the other. So I pushed the plastic lug out, then pulled this device up at about a 45 degree angle, then pulling the flimsy battery box forward, I had access to the connector, and pulled it out.... at last !! I had access, then it was the easy matter of locating the green wire pulling the spade out and soldering a length of wire onto it.

I refitted everything and fired bike up, and checked ALL the switches thank god, everything is working.......

Tomorrow I will do the easy task of fitting the wire to the headlight.

Will report back tomorrow if it works.

I guess since the bike was designed to work with two lights as the wiring is all there, then the battery, alternator and related electrical items will be up to powering two headlights??? I do short journeys to work so I am fitting an inline fuse, I may disconnect the headlight for the short journey to prevent a flat battery. - and just use the two lights for long journeys.

..................finished off this morning with the wiring, included a inline fuse but I only had a 7.5amp fuse and I see from the handbook the headlight fuse should be 20amp - so it may blow, anyone know the amps/volts/watts equation?

The lights work correctly ie turn ignition on, no lights, fire bike up and both lights come on just as bike fires   

*****

got answer from google..

For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp

so for one headlight at 55watts = a 4.5amp fuse at minimum so 7.5 is about right.

for headlight and main beam it works out at 10amps so the handbook at 20amps seems right too.

*****
MOST IMPORTANT!!!!!

Remember that the lights dont come on until the engine is running!!!!!!! Before you double check and triple check the wiring loom.
*****

I just completed this mod and can also confirm that it was the thick lighter green cable for me (there is another thinner darker green cable which shouldn't be touched). I didn't bother removing the battery etc. as it seemed like an awful lot of hassle. I just removed the tape from around the wires that originate from the LHS handlebar right by where they disappear into the LHS of the frame. This exposed the 11 wires as described in other posts. I then cut the green with my fingers crossed, completed the rest of the work and hey presto. Looks great. Will report if I have any battery problems.



*****

Having done this on my FZ6 - I was asked to do it for someone else so I took pictures this time.

Wired up the headlight first with the right angled connector, notice the in line fuse. (wiring to be tidied up later)


removed fairing pieces to enable tank to be lifted, removed battery...




next :- see the electrical component in front of battery box, one side its bolted on (no access to bolt) the other side is held in place with a plastic lug remove this (where finger is pointed)



next swing this electrical component up and try to wiggle connector out from below (NOT EASY) here, the wiring of connector is just appearing....


wiggle connector out (NOT EASY)


having got the damn thing out, split the connector like so.


Now look at the pins, both have four on one side and six on the other, but there's an odd pin in the middle, pull this one out, it will be the thicker green wire



solder the wire running to your headlight, the rubber sleeve has been replaced over the connector (which is why it is now hidden)


Finally tuck everything away, wire here just needs tucking away now....


NB, by removing the battery, it gives a bit more room cos then the battery box can be pushed in somewhat, and swinging the electrical component to one side, there's just enough access to locate the connecter.

be warned, it aint easy.


Phil.


Originally contributed by RD, The Bean Machine, Thanos, deefer 666, whapper, Bluecray 3/2004-6/2007
]]> https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=55685 Mon, 01 Nov 2010 20:28:09 +0000 MikeRBiker]]> https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/showthread.php?tid=55685
Fault Code: 12
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective crankshaft position sensor.
Malfunction in pickup rotor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 13
Diagnostic Code: 03
Symptom: Intake air pressure sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective intake air pressure sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 14
Diagnostic Code: 03
Symptom: Faulty intake air pressure sensor pipe system
Probable cause of malfunction:
detected hose
clogged hose
Intake air pressure sensor hose is detached, clogged,
kinked, or pinched.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 15
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: Throttle position sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed throttle position sensor.

Fault Code: 16
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: A stuck throttle position sensor is detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Stuck throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU. 01

Fault Code: 19
Diagnostic Code: 20
Symptom: Open circuit in the input line of ECU No4 terminal is detected when the start switch is pressed.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness (ECU coupler).
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 21
Diagnostic Code: 06
Symptom: Coolant temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective coolant temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 22
Diagnostic Code: 05
Symptom: Intake air temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective intake temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 30
Diagnostic Code: 08
Symptom: The motorcycle has overturned.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Overturned.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 33
Diagnostic Code: 30
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 1, #4).
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

Fault Code: 34
Diagnostic Code: 31
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 2, #3).
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

Fault Code: 41
Diagnostic Code: 08
Symptom: Lean angle cut-off switch-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective lean angle cut-off switch.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 42
Diagnostic Code: 07, 21
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the speed sensor; or, an open or
short circuit is detected in the neutral switch.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective speed sensor.
Malfunction in vehicle speed sensor detected unit.
Defective neutral switch.
Malfunction in the engine side of the neutral switch.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 43
Diagnostic Code: 09
Symptom: Supply power to the injector and fuel pump is not normal
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness. (red/blue line or blue/yellow line)
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 44
Diagnostic Code: 60
Symptom: An error is detected while reading or writing on EEPROM.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in ECU. (The CO adjustment value is not properly written on or read from the internal memory).

Fault Code: 46
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Power supply to the FI system is not normal.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in "CHARGING SYSTEM".

Fault code: 50
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Faulty ECU memory. When this malfunction is detected, the code
number might not appear on the meter.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in ECU. (The program and data are not
properly written on or read from the internal memory.)

Fault code: Er-1
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-2
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU within the specified duration.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-3
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Data from the ECU cannot be received correctly.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-4
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Non-registered data has been received from the meter.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.
]]>
Fault Code: 12
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective crankshaft position sensor.
Malfunction in pickup rotor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 13
Diagnostic Code: 03
Symptom: Intake air pressure sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective intake air pressure sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 14
Diagnostic Code: 03
Symptom: Faulty intake air pressure sensor pipe system
Probable cause of malfunction:
detected hose
clogged hose
Intake air pressure sensor hose is detached, clogged,
kinked, or pinched.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 15
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: Throttle position sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed throttle position sensor.

Fault Code: 16
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: A stuck throttle position sensor is detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Stuck throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU. 01

Fault Code: 19
Diagnostic Code: 20
Symptom: Open circuit in the input line of ECU No4 terminal is detected when the start switch is pressed.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness (ECU coupler).
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 21
Diagnostic Code: 06
Symptom: Coolant temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective coolant temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 22
Diagnostic Code: 05
Symptom: Intake air temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective intake temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 30
Diagnostic Code: 08
Symptom: The motorcycle has overturned.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Overturned.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 33
Diagnostic Code: 30
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 1, #4).
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

Fault Code: 34
Diagnostic Code: 31
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 2, #3).
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

Fault Code: 41
Diagnostic Code: 08
Symptom: Lean angle cut-off switch-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective lean angle cut-off switch.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 42
Diagnostic Code: 07, 21
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the speed sensor; or, an open or
short circuit is detected in the neutral switch.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective speed sensor.
Malfunction in vehicle speed sensor detected unit.
Defective neutral switch.
Malfunction in the engine side of the neutral switch.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 43
Diagnostic Code: 09
Symptom: Supply power to the injector and fuel pump is not normal
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness. (red/blue line or blue/yellow line)
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 44
Diagnostic Code: 60
Symptom: An error is detected while reading or writing on EEPROM.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in ECU. (The CO adjustment value is not properly written on or read from the internal memory).

Fault Code: 46
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Power supply to the FI system is not normal.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in "CHARGING SYSTEM".

Fault code: 50
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Faulty ECU memory. When this malfunction is detected, the code
number might not appear on the meter.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in ECU. (The program and data are not
properly written on or read from the internal memory.)

Fault code: Er-1
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-2
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU within the specified duration.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-3
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Data from the ECU cannot be received correctly.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-4
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Non-registered data has been received from the meter.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.
]]>