Downshifts getting herder when engine warms up

[PieEater]

Hi Fokkers - bike has done just over 60,000 miles and downshifts are starting to get harder to engage. I've adjusted the clutch cable from the top adjuster so there is some but very little slack, I've also adjusted the lever span outwards so the cable is being pulled in a bit more. Is it time to replace the clutch or is there something else I should be looking at first?

[agricola]

Always best to start with the cheapest option first if youre not certain its the clutch plates etc. Try a new cable.

[Trebus]

Might be worth greasing up the rose joints on the shift mechanism. There were some problems reported with the blanking plug falling out at then end of the main shaft causing oil starvation issues. 

Possibly some wear in the basket fingers which much need dressing.

That’s where I’d start after ruling out the cable.

[Gnasher]

Check both ends of the cable for Adjustment/cable operation/wear or damage, if all is well you'll need to go deeper. 

First check the clutch push/pull rod bearings, the top one can be done without removing the clutch cover.  If there's any play it's buggered and will need replacing, fairly common on bikes 30k plus.  The seal starts to degrad and water/crud get in, likelyhood is the bottom is ok as it's inside the casing but check it.  The mechanism only moves a few mm at the bottom, if the top bearing is shot it will not release the plates properly. Giving you hard gear changes.

If that's all ok than check the ends of the push/rod for wear and then it's the plates, basket.  Chances are it's at worst the top bearing.

If all of the above is good then you're looking at worn possibly damaged selector mechanism or dogs.

[PieEater]

Thanks guys, appreciate the advice, this will be my winter project !!

[b1k3rdude]

I added stainless springs on the clutch end of the cable on mine, 

There is already a spring on the clutch shaft arm (you can see it in the photo) that performs this function?, so your mod may potentially be masking that there is an issue with your cable? and making the lever harder to pull.

[PieEater]

I'm also thinking that because it only happens when the engine warms up (15+ miles) there must be a part that is expanding with the heat whilst another part isn't expanding as much in order to not fully engage the clutch, so not sure what that would be !?! Looking at Google a motorcycle clutch generally lasts 50k at most and my bikes done 64k so I'm thinking of getting a clutch kit and filing down any grooves in the basket before refitting as well as replacing the top actuator bearing. Does that sound like a plan?

[kralik]

I'm also thinking that because it only happens when the engine warms up (15+ miles) there must be a part that is expanding with the heat whilst another part isn't expanding as much in order to not fully engage the clutch, so not sure what that would be !?! Looking at Google a motorcycle clutch generally lasts 50k at most and my bikes done 64k so I'm thinking of getting a clutch kit and filing down any grooves in the basket before refitting as well as replacing the top actuator bearing. Does that sound like a plan?

Hi,

how is the situation now, did you have a chance to go through this in the winter? (even it is not ended yet)

[PieEater]

Sadly I've not managed to look at it yet

[kralik]

Ok, no problem.

I am currently working on my thou, carbs cleaning etc. and I have realized that the clutch lever does not move to the end when released. It looks like the spring on the lever on the clutch cover is tired already, therefore it does not release the clutch lever completely.

I am just thinking, when it would be the best time to change clutch plates etc. I have got the bike about 15 years already, it has almost 90t. kms on the clock and I did not change the clutch plates on it never before.
The carbs are Ivanized with full kit, if I remember well from the last year, when I pull throttle really heavy, it looked like the clutch were slipping slightly.

I am sorry for my english though....

[dueruote]

I don't know about the mileage, but changing clutch cables always made a massive improvement to me, until I got tired of doing that and installed an hydraulic clutch from Magura, which was one of the best upgrades I did.

I noticed the oil is important too. Without wanting to start an oil discussion, for me the Motul 7100 10W40 keeps the shifting smooth well past 1000-1500 km, whereas with other oils I felt shifting started to become stiffer after that mileage.
Maybe 10W50 or 15W50 could work equally well in higher mileage engines.

[b1k3rdude]

I am just thinking, when it would be the best time to change clutch plates etc. I have got the bike about 15 years already, it has almost 90t. kms on the clock and I did not change the clutch plates on it never before. 

So thats roughly 55,000 miles, so someone will correct me but that that mileage the friction/metal plates and clutch springs are all prolly due a change.

[Gnasher]

I am just thinking, when it would be the best time to change clutch plates etc. I have got the bike about 15 years already, it has almost 90t. kms on the clock and I did not change the clutch plates on it never before. 

So thats roughly 55,000 miles, so someone will correct me but that that mileage the friction/metal plates and clutch springs are all prolly due a change.

You can't really put a figure on this as such as there's so many variables, some will bugger a clutch in under 10k or less others get 80k plus.  Best way is to measure the plates and compare to manufacturers specs.  That said most clutches I see that are worn to the point of slipping it's not the friction plates but the steel plates wrapping, it only takes a couple and the clutch will start slipping.

[kralik]

I am just thinking, when it would be the best time to change clutch plates etc. I have got the bike about 15 years already, it has almost 90t. kms on the clock and I did not change the clutch plates on it never before. 

So thats roughly 55,000 miles, so someone will correct me but that that mileage the friction/metal plates and clutch springs are all prolly due a change.

You can't really put a figure on this as such as there's so many variables, some will bugger a clutch in under 10k or less others get 80k plus.  Best way is to measure the plates and compare to manufacturers specs.  That said most clutches I see that are worn to the point of slipping it's not the friction plates but the steel plates wrapping, it only takes a couple and the clutch will start slipping.

hi both,

thanks for the hints. I will probably need to open the clutch and will check how all the plates look like currently.

anyway, I got a new carbon engine covers installed already, so it would be good if the parts under the couver would look nice too :-)

---

the covers, another one installed on the alternator too

[kralik]

hope this works now

[unfazed]

Was getting fed up the dreaded Fazer1000 clutch drag which was getting progressively worse in the last 1000km and making changing gear difficult at low speed.
Dismantled the clutch to find I had 3 warped steel plates and 2 warped friction plates. 
Everything else in good order. Expected to see blueing on the steel plates after 90,000km but nothing, they were surprisingly clean. 
First day clutch. Full set of new plates on the way.