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+--- Thread: Clutch cable (/showthread.php?tid=83745)
Clutch cable - Fazerstupot - 23-03-25
Looking for a new clutch cable for my 2002 fzs1000, are aftermarket ones ok ?
RE: Clutch cable - Gaz66 - 23-03-25
(23-03-25, 06:37 PM)Fazerstupot Wrote: Looking for a new clutch cable for my 2002 fzs1000, are aftermarket ones ok ?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166240218669?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-166974-033325-9&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=166240218669&targetid=2274951440814&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9191728&poi=&campaigni
Hey Stu.
From experience OEM Yamaha cables are way too pricey, & work no better than these Slinky Glide cables.
I use Slinky Glide on my thou (link above) from this seller on eBay, just give em a message,
All cables need lube, dry cables will be shagged in no time, I give mine a good lube with thick chainsaw chain oil, cheap as chips & works mint on cables, hang cable by it's nipple & drizzle oil down inner cable working it in moving outer up & down, only ever needs lubing once & left hanging overnight to drain prior to fitting.
Clutch arm is poorly designed with a way too weak spring system, so cable slack never gets fully pulled back, this can burn out the clutch pressure plate bearing in no time.
I modified mine with added coil springs on cable at clutch arm end , all cable slack is now fully pulled back after every lever pull.
RE: Clutch cable - unfazed - 24-03-25
I tried the Slinky Glide clutch cable on my 1000, just didnt like the feel of it and replaced it with OEM. Now it is kept as a spare when on holidays or going on long journeys. I have Slinky glide EXUP cables and Throttle cables and they are fine, but the clutch caable just didnt have the right feel to it.
The spring on the clutch arm is far too weak as Gaz says and needs modiification to improve and get the lever to return fully when released.
RE: Clutch cable - PieEater - 26-03-25
No experience of aftermarket clutch cables as the advice has always been go OEM even if they are double the money, I guess it depends on how long you're thinking of keeping the bike.
RE: Clutch cable - fazerscotty - 26-03-25
I found that the combination of a Slinky cable and a MT-07 clutch operating arm seems to be the ideal solution.
RE: Clutch cable - Gaz66 - 29-03-25
Not dissing the OEM cables, they're £55 + P&P, Slinkys are £12, I just don't see the benefit in spending nearly 5 times as much for a cable that fundamentally works no better than a known quality aftermarket cable.
I also believe Hel do cables to order at around £30 ish?
I'm 3 yrs & nearly 3K on a slinky glide & it still works as well as when it was new, lube all cables even new ones regardless.
My old OEM cable was 20yrs old when I changed it 3yrs ago, so have no experience of how well a new OEM cable performs in comparison to a decent aftermarket cable, yes there are some shocking aftermarket cables, so I'd defo steer well clear of the really cheap stuff available.
I've been reasonably happy with Slinky Glide cables, clutch cables have a hard life & by design the inner cable will eventually saw its way thru the inner sheath regardless what sellers claim its made of.
I Kept old OEM cable for spare, flushed it thru with brake cleaner & lubed it with chainsaw oil, probly never get used again, but it's there for emergency use if needed.
Regardless of lube or adjustment, no way in hell would the naff weak clutch arm spring pull all the cable slack out on the old OEM cable or the new Slinky cable, even tried to get 2 OEM springs on the shaft, it's not possible so don't waste ya time.
I fitted a new shaft bearing & seal while casing was off for painting, turns out bearing was well worn to the point of bearing shell was cutting into the shaft, it had a bit of wear on its thrust side, new shafts are over £100, so old shaft went back, ideally a bit of weld & skim back to size on a lathe would make it as new.
Gave the problem some thought & decided the easiest solution & cheapest that looks sort of factory esque, was to fit a coil spring on the cable at the clutch arm end, found some stainless small diameter coil springs on eBay of varying dimensions & strengths, only a few quid each, ordered a few to play around with, wound 1 spring over the exposed inner cable at clutch arm end, instantly 50% better but still no cigar, so added another spring over 1st spring, hay presto, all cable slack gets pulled back every lever pull.
No detectable increase in lever pressure required.
I've previously fitted 10% heavier TRK clutch springs to avoid any future clutch slip, clutch stack height is still well within spec, condition of frictions & steels are all mint, but due to fitting heavier clutch springs, lever effort is hard work on a long ride, I'd defo like to give a longer clutch arm a go to reduce lever effort & hand fatigue.
Pic below of my cable mod, might be worth adding as a "Sticky"?
RE: Clutch cable - dueruote - 01-04-25
I would suggest as an alternative, looking at an upgrade to hydraulic clutch actuator.
I got tired of changing OEM cables so often and went with a Magura kit, and I can say was one of the best upgrades I ever did.
+ Smooth and lighter lever actuation
+ No performance drop over time
+ No more need to adjust clutch
+ Works with mineral oil, so no risk of damaging paint as with DOT brake fluids.
- Significantly higher cost compared to OEM cable
- No pre made kit for FZS1000. We must choose and buy parts separately.
- Needs occasionally cleaning of the cap of the slave cylinder, but it's not messy.
- Limited adjustments. The choice of the master cylinder determines the actuation type on the lever.
RE: Clutch cable - agricola - 01-04-25
(01-04-25, 11:59 AM)dueruote Wrote: I would suggest as an alternative, looking at an upgrade to hydraulic clutch actuator.
I got tired of changing OEM cables so often and went with a Magura kit, and I can say was one of the best upgrades I ever did.
+ Smooth and lighter lever actuation
+ No performance drop over time
+ No more need to adjust clutch
+ Works with mineral oil, so no risk of damaging paint as with DOT brake fluids.
- Significantly higher cost compared to OEM cable
- No pre made kit for FZS1000. We must choose and buy parts separately.
- Needs occasionally cleaning of the cap of the slave cylinder, but it's not messy.
- Limited adjustments. The choice of the master cylinder determines the actuation type on the lever.
I have converted both my last two bikes to Magura hydraulic. Absolutley the best mod to both that Ive done, bought the Fazer kit from a stall at Stafford show, negotiated a cash deal for that, bought the second one from Lois Moto in Germany for half the cost of the least expensive dealer in the uk. The Fazer one has been on for 9 years, absolutley trouble free.