(05-09-24, 10:30 PM)Gaz66 Wrote: Welcome to the R6 shock club, had one on mine for yrs.
Before going any further check shock has clearance to frame rail above alloy casting, this model shock usually needs a few mil filing off to clear the frame rail.

I was never happy with setting suspension until I read up on shock damping.
What I discovered & seems to be a little known fact is when you add rebound damping, you automatically add compression damping, it's all about fluid dynamics & how shock valving works.
This is why lots of bikers end up chasing their tale & can't get a good setup.


When adding rebound damping, keep bouncing rear end until shock won't go into its second stroke, ie shock compresses & comes back up & stops at the top of its 1st stroke without going over the top into a second bounce, this is an ideal starting point, you'll find you'll hardly need to add anymore rebound damping & may even need to remove a bit.

By adding rebound damping you're automatically add an amount of compression damping.
Go ride the bike around a chosen circuit that has some decent undulations, check shock isn't too bouncy, if it feels a bit of a pogo stick, add a tad more rebound damping until this stops.
Consider rebound as set for now, don't be tempted to mess with it (write down) where in the damping screws range you have it set at.
Leave high speed comp damping fully out for now.

Rear end bounce time again, keep adding low speed comp damping until you feel it starts to affect how you've set the rebound damping earlier, ie rear end will be slow to bounce back up, set comp damping till it just starts to slow shock from springing back up, then remove a tiny but of rebound damping to compensate, you'll find this will ride really well.
Leave high speed damping fully (out) ie no damping, ride the bike, put a good 100miles on it before adding high speed comp damping, this adjustment is only to reduce how much a bump bucks you out of the seat, if bike feels ok hitting bumps & doesn't buck you out the seat, there's no need for any high speed damping for you personally.
If you do get bucked out the seat from sharp bumps, gradually a few clicks at a time until you feels it improves (write it down) keep going until it get worse, you can always go back to where it felt good.

From experience you'll hardly need any high speed comp damping.

Same process to set the front.
Try forks flush with top yoke, the drop em thru 10mm, see which you prefer, 10mm works well, makes front end a bit more nervous at speed, but bike just drops into corners much easier.

Hope this info helps.
Enjoy?

(04-09-24, 07:46 PM)EarlOfEasycore Wrote: The time finally came after 55000 miles and 22 years, my venerable Fazer needed its shock replaced, so I managed to find RMT1983's listing for R6 shock and dogbones on ebay (I had a voucher code I was itching to use, so I'm so glad I did). The rebound damping was progressively worsening, but not to the point where the bike was unrideable; you just knew that it wasn't going to track predictably into and out of corners. Given where I live in the Forest of Dean, the state of Mark Harper's roads leaves something to be desired, so rather than tolerating mediocre, worsening handling, I thought I'd figure out what all the fuss was about. Order got despatched when it was supposed to and ended up on my door 24 hours later, so props to Richard for getting it sorted (he did advise he wasn't going to be around when I clicked through ebay, but I didn't mind the wait)

First thing's first - Time to hot glue gun the washers onto the upper shock mount bushing, just so I won't fill up my swear jar when fitting the R6 shock. 

After soaking the mounting hardware in penetrating fluid, noting that the nuts may not have been detorqued since the day it left Japan, and trying to find the easiest way to access the upper mounting bolt, the shock was eventually out. It's defintely seen better days. 
https://www.japanfortwo.travel/unleash-the-power-dive-into-the-captivating-world-of-japanese-motorcycle-culture/

Took the opportunity to grease the roller bearings and attend to the pitting. I was expecting a lot worse than what came out, given that my 07 R1's linkage was graunchy AF when I replaced my rear for a Nitron R2. A little bit of pitting was tolerable and cleaned up nicely. 

Installation is the opposite of reverse, other than the fact that the 10kg weight plate I had used to jack up the wheel was a few mm too narrow to enable the final linkage bolt on the dog bone to slot in without much persuasion or the bearing inner ring from being axially displaced. But once fully installed and torqued up to 40Nm, it was all grand

I took it for a quick 10 mile test drive around my local bump B roads and twisties, trying my best to test the handling against the free roaming sheep and wild boar and noted the following. 
- I'd need to get some recommended settings for a 14 stone rider front and rear; twisty and hilly A/B roads. Obviously, I'd dial in the sag first, so if anybody has any reference values, it would be useful. 
- The bike felt more composed on corner entry and exit. Back end wouldn't squat as much under acceleration, allowing me to roll on the throttle earlier. It just tracks over the undulation a bit better. That's most definitely expected, now that the shock has a damping circuit that isn't comprised of expired 22 year old damping fluid. 
- There isn't that latent understeer on fast sweepers, meaning that I can trust the bike a bit more; useful coming into autumn and winter. I now have greater feedback on weight transfer and steering. 
- Despite pulling the forks up through the yokes by 5mm, I may have to increase the compression damping or preload, just so the front doesn't dive as much and make it feel balanced with the rear. I did get my bike mechanic to rebuild the forks 4000 miles ago when the stanchions and seals went. 
- Given that the Fazer was only meant to be a commuting hack, I've put 10 times as many miles on this thing in the last 3 years than my R1, even on weekend blasts. I just find it more comfortable and flexible. Weird to think I've had her for 7 years. Was thinking about replacing it for a Speed Triple (either 1200 or 1050) or Tuono 1000/1100, but this bike owes me nothing and is ergonomically tweaked to my preferences. I might be getting old, having had IL4 sportsbikes the past 19 years, but just a few light touches and refreshes here and there means that I've got a purposeful, usable bike I can daily drive without fear of anything malfunctioning. 
As for Richard, well, it's a 2 thumbs up from me    Thanks for your help 

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