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+--- Thread: Gear change mechanism question (/showthread.php?tid=83022)
Gear change mechanism question - Yam12 - 24-10-22
Hi re changing the stopper arm return spring and/ or the shaft centralising spring, does oil need to be drained and oil pump taken off as per Haynes manual. Is this a very technical job? I have replaced the clutch springs, plates and clutch cable so far without too much trouble!!
Re: Gear change mechanism question - Yam12 - 11-11-22
Hi everyone yamaha taking ages sending parts to fowlers but I ordered 3 springs to fix clutch issue to be sure . What's the stopper one from fowlers diagram could anyone tell me that's stopping gears engaging. Could be that they're waiting for one that doesn't matter that much -was just going change them all while it was taken apart. Thanks folks
Re: Gear change mechanism question - Yam12 - 11-11-22
Sorry folks I'm not tech savvy at uploading pics etc
Re: Gear change mechanism question - darrsi - 12-11-22
Adjust your profile so we can see your model and year of bike.
Probably won't matter too much in this instance but there are subtle differences between these bikes.
Re: Gear change mechanism question - darrsi - 12-11-22
If you can find me a Yamaha part number for one of your parts on the Fowlers website (and year of bike) I'll find it and put the drawing up for you?
Re: Gear change mechanism question - Yam12 - 15-11-22
Hi thanks so much for this help - I'm a FZS 600 SP 5DMA,2000 070A. From the shift cam and fork section I ordered compression spring: 90501-06022. Torsion spring:90508- 232B0
From shift shaft section I ordered torsion spring:9050832142. Fowlers said yamaha has no stock of one of the springs and I'd be waiting long time to get it. Wondering which one is stopper arm return spring? If its one of the ones they have then I could get them to send me what they have to try and fix problem with no gears.
Re: Gear change mechanism question - darrsi - 15-11-22
Okay, sounds like your bike is exactly the same model as mine
I know you've written it down, but adjust your profile in the account settings to put FZS600 00-01 so we can see immediately what bike you have, it just makes things simpler.
Re: Gear change mechanism question - darrsi - 15-11-22
#2 - 90501-06022
#13 - 90508-232B0
Re: Gear change mechanism question - darrsi - 15-11-22
#2 - 9050832142
Re: Gear change mechanism question - darrsi - 15-11-22
Out of curiosity, why are you ordering these parts, what is the problem with the bike?
Re: Gear change mechanism question - Yam12 - 15-11-22
Hi just updated profile there thanks darrsi. Engine is running perfectly - just no forward gears, can get neutral light on and off but no positive clunk down into first then up up up etc feels like it's doing something but it's like something not bringing drive to the wheel. I've replaced the cable, friction and steel plates so far but to no joy unfortunately
Re: Gear change mechanism question - darrsi - 16-11-22
Is the clutch lever pulling in okay?
When i changed my clutch plates a few months ago, and replaced the pressure plate, after tightening the clutch spring bolts i put it all back together and the lever was solid, which properly confused me for a while.
So i took the cover off again, stared at it really sternly for another while, then slackened the spring bolts again, then went round the other side to undo the clutch cable adjuster nut, and totally backed off the adjuster screw. I then torqued up the spring bolts again and adjusted the cable adjuster screw to where it should be and then it was all sweet.
What i'd done before was tighten the pressure plate that obviously pushes against the clutch plates, but they in turn were sitting on that cable adjuster screw which was still set in a position to cater for worn out plates rather than being backed off to compensate for the thicker pads on the new plates.
Just a thought.
I'm no expert on this but i wouldn't think these particular springs were the cause of your issue, although it won't hurt changing them if it's apart anyway.
Now you've hinted at your problem then the higher powers on here will probably be along soon to give your more info at what could be wrong.
Re: Gear change mechanism question - Yam12 - 16-11-22
The clutch lever feels perfect. I'll await the parts and keep ye posted. I'll be getting her fixed up either way cos she's a joy to drive when she's going. Thanks again
Re: Gear change mechanism question - BBROWN1664 - 16-11-22
Just out of curiosity, is the front sprocket actually fitted properly?
Re: Gear change mechanism question - Yam12 - 16-11-22
Yes all is well with front sprocket but I'll certainly have a good check of it when all is apart..
Re: Gear change mechanism question - Yam12 - 27-01-23
Hi everybody update on the clutch - mechanic advised clean up old steel plates as only raced ones usually get hot enough to deform and get mad brittle. They cleaned up lovely but doing this job made me realise i had miscounted the correct number of steel plates to go back in when I put on the new ones. I did set torque wrench to 13 instead of 8 and sheared a bolt!! But as advised by you guys I bought a few new ones when ordering off fowlers so all was well. I will be taking a lot more pics of things for the rebuild as I strip them in future also. Thanks for all the great pointers along the way!!
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Re: Gear change mechanism question - darrsi - 27-01-23
(27-01-23, 01:38 AM)Yam12 link Wrote: Hi everybody update on the clutch - mechanic advised clean up old steel plates as only raced ones usually get hot enough to deform and get mad brittle. They cleaned up lovely but doing this job made me realise i had miscounted the correct number of steel plates to go back in when I put on the new ones. I did set torque wrench to 13 instead of 8 and sheared a bolt!! But as advised by you guys I bought a few new ones when ordering off fowlers so all was well. I will be taking a lot more pics of things for the rebuild as I strip them in future also. Thanks for all the great pointers along the way!!
.
Damn, how did you get the bolt out, was it easy enough?
Anyone changing clutch plates, I would definitely advise ordering some new pressure plate/spring bolts, and I also ordered myself a much smaller torque wrench to play with as well.
Re: Gear change mechanism question - Yam12 - 27-01-23
Hi I removed the bolt with tiny screwdriver to get it moving and then put the drill very slowly onto it and out she came you gotta make sure those torque wrenches are set or they'll catch you out so easy to forget if don't use them very often!
Re: Gear change mechanism question - darrsi - 28-01-23
(27-01-23, 11:16 PM)Yam12 link Wrote: Hi I removed the bolt with tiny screwdriver to get it moving and then put the drill very slowly onto it and out she came you gotta make sure those torque wrenches are set or they'll catch you out so easy to forget if don't use them very often!
It does seem to be a design thing to sheer a bolt head rather than the thread of the clutch hub.
That's why I mentioned before that using Loctite is not only not necessary but would actually turn things into a proper nightmare.