• what is peoples opinion on hel stainless steel bleed nipples and what size do I need.
  
• Will 500ml of fluid be enough to do the job - even if I have to struggle with bleeding.
  
• What fluid to get - any make better than other.
  
• Pads SBS ceramic I see have been mentioned. I don't want anything too sharp on the rear
  
• seals webmoto Ebay or fowlers.I read it can be hit and miss with pattern ones but is that still the case.
  

(29-03-20, 03:26 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: I have a few questions.I will be using a hel line and on the website it mentions black stealth heat shrink on the ends as an option. I actually think it looks a bit messy and my new line will be clear stainless steel but on the rear is there any reason to have the "stealth heat shrink.

(29-03-20, 03:26 PM)fazersharp link Wrote:

• what is peoples opinion on hel stainless steel bleed nipples and what size do I need.
  
• Will 500ml of fluid be enough to do the job - even if I have to struggle with bleeding.
  
• What fluid to get - any make better than other.
  
• Pads SBS ceramic I see have been mentioned. I don't want anything too sharp on the rear
  
• seals webmoto Ebay or fowlers.I read it can be hit and miss with pattern ones but is that still the case.
  

A reminder for those that do not know. I have had the bike for 19 years 23k on clock and the last 19k of them have been dry ones only. Bike garaged. The rear calaper was last serviced at 8k in 2002 pads fluid and seals ( so the receipt says )

(29-03-20, 05:30 PM)Gnasher link Wrote: Not really needed it's up to you 7mm x 1mm pitch.
You can do the job with 250ml if you don't waste it.
DOT 4 you don't need anything else.
SBS HF ceramic is what you need, they are OE equivalent.
Go for Flowers, for the rear seals, you can buy a kit which includes the pistons & seals, or you can but each separate. All depends how bad the pistons are.  If you're going to split the caliper body you will need a body seal, you can't get this from Yamaha, Suzuki's GS500 one fits perfectly. 

• Nipples - Im thinking if I knacker the old ones somehow. When I did the front years ago I could not get the threads to stop weeping so I think I brought some new ones in the end.
  
• Hmmm - I will waste it so 500ml sounds ok
  
• The pads you suggest sound perfect.
  
• Rear seals number 5 here https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4158523/fzs600-fazer-5dm1-1998-070-a/rear-disc-and-caliper £29
  

(29-03-20, 07:41 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: Any recommendations as to where to get the pads.

(29-03-20, 07:36 PM)fazersharp link Wrote:

• Nipples - Im thinking if I knacker the old ones somehow. When I did the front years ago I could not get the threads to stop weeping so I think I brought some new ones in the end.
  
• Hmmm - I will waste it so 500ml sounds ok
  
• The pads you suggest sound perfect.
  
• Rear seals number 5 here https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4158523/fzs600-fazer-5dm1-1998-070-a/rear-disc-and-caliper £29
  

I am hoping the pistons are ok. Why would I need to be splitting the body ?
And a basic question do I pop the pistons out then take the seals out and clean in and around their seats, replace with new then push the cleaned and inspected pistons back in. I will be taking the caliper off and doing it on a bench.Do I need to do anything with the master cylinder.

(29-03-20, 08:25 PM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=fazersharp link=topic=26027.msg311393#msg311393 date=1585507294]
Any recommendations as to where to get the pads.

(29-03-20, 09:05 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=26027.msg311394#msg311394 date=1585509914]
[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=26027.msg311393#msg311393 date=1585507294]
Any recommendations as to where to get the pads.

(29-03-20, 09:01 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: Thanks Gnasher, before you posted I was looking at the price difference and it's only 26 quid exta for the kit with with pistons. So I can be as rough as I need to be in getting the old ones out.

(29-03-20, 09:01 PM)fazersharp link Wrote:
Just to confirm that I pop them out without splitting the caliper

(30-03-20, 12:18 AM)Fazerider link Wrote: If you’ve avoided wet and salty roads it’s a fair bet that the pistons will be fine. I've never needed to split calipers... i see which piston moves easier then use a small G-clamp to hold it in while using the pedal to pump the difficult one out. Then piston pliers to wriggle the other out.
If the seals on the master cylinder haven’t been replaced recently I’d change ‘em. Yamaha say to do so every 4 years for all the hydraulics’ rubber components, though that is a bit over-cautious.
You can avoid problems with bleed nipples by greasing the threads when you put them in. And a squirt of WD40 down the hole after bleeding blows out that nasty hygroscopic brake fluid... just keep your face out of the firing line when you do.

(30-03-20, 09:06 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: If you've not got piston pliers, be sure to leave enough of the second piston proud of the caliper body that you can grip it.  These pistons are quite long and you need to push which ever one you're not taking out back into the body, just make sure you do as above or you'll have to get hold of piston pliers to remove it.
Push them both out with a single pad between them, get them a equal as possible, now clean the pistons ensure you get to the undersides, grease them and push them back.  This will help free them, it will also give you an indication if they're seized, from there you can decide to split or not.
As mentioned these are often a real pain to remove and they can lock themselves in, I've had many an owner turn up with a caliper body with chewed up seized pistons. :wall
If your's have been well maintained your should be ok, good luck.   

(30-03-20, 12:00 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: Are they long enough to push out until they touch each other or maybe a thin piece of metal in-between so I can use it to push them apart after greasing.

(30-03-20, 11:51 AM)fazersharp link Wrote: [quote author=Fazerider link=topic=26027.msg311411#msg311411 date=1585523927]

If you’ve avoided wet and salty roads it’s a fair bet that the pistons will be fine. I've never needed to split calipers... i see which piston moves easier then use a small G-clamp to hold it in while using the pedal to pump the difficult one out. Then piston pliers to wriggle the other out.
If the seals on the master cylinder haven’t been replaced recently I’d change ‘em. Yamaha say to do so every 4 years for all the hydraulics’ rubber components, though that is a bit over-cautious.
You can avoid problems with bleed nipples by greasing the threads when you put them in. And a squirt of WD40 down the hole after bleeding blows out that nasty hygroscopic brake fluid... just keep your face out of the firing line when you do.

(30-03-20, 01:44 PM)Fazerider link Wrote: Fowlers Item 6, the “Cylinder Kit, Master” is what I’ve bought in the past. It does include more than strictly needed, but I don’t think you can get the individual rubber parts separately.
As you probably know, getting air out of the back brake is a pain because the path the fluid fluid takes goes up and down. Air trapped in the master cylinder is best removed by slackening the banjo at the top.

(30-03-20, 12:28 PM)Gnasher link Wrote: [quote author=fazersharp link=topic=26027.msg311428#msg311428 date=1585566050]
Are they long enough to push out until they touch each other or maybe a thin piece of metal in-between so I can use it to push them apart after greasing.