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+--- Thread: Pilot screw (/showthread.php?tid=80767)
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Pilot screw - Garfeild - 11-05-19
I’ve got a 2003 fazer600 tickover is a bit lumpy, it seems that it’s running on 3 with no 3 exhaust pipe not getting hot as quickly as the others, ignition wise all is ok, new plugs fitted all sparking
So got my carbtune all set up, and what I found is that no 3 didn’t move off minimum setting with the other 3 at various settings.
I managed to balance 1&2, then went to do 3&4 but again I couldn’t get no 3 to alter, I then set the other 3 to no 3 to try and get it to run smoothly
I’m wondering if the pilot screw is not set properly, but where are they? The manual shows a view, but it’s a joint manual with the thundercat, and it of course shows the cat carb not the fzs one
Anyone got a pic of where the pilot screws are?
TIA
Re: Pilot screw - bandit - 11-05-19
Use the download section,click on Downloads top left, download FZS600 workshop manual. It's in the carburetor section, they are under each carb facing up outside the float bowls. [img alt=Smile]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/img]
Re: Pilot screw - bandit - 11-05-19
Found this posted shows what to clean but one of the pics shows the fuel screw (pilot).
https://totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/ausertech/Carb%20Cleaning/Carb%20cleaning%20101%20with%20pics.htm
Re: Pilot screw - Garfeild - 11-05-19
Thanks, now I know what I’m looking for il try and check the setting on those in the next couple of days, no3 looks like it’s a pain to get to, possibly remove starter motor?
Re: Pilot screw - bandit - 11-05-19
When you adjusted the screw for 3 & 4 could you get 4 to match 3, if so then turn the middle screw to try & match 1 & 2 & 3 & 4.
Here is a write up on balancing & throttle position sensor settings. Also recheck the throttle position sensor settings after balancing also.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0
Re: Pilot screw - Garfeild - 12-05-19
Thanks, I’ll see if I can print that out, I already knew what the process was, but didn’t know the TPS had to be set before and after.
Re: Pilot screw - Fazerider - 12-05-19
(11-05-19, 10:50 PM)Garfeild link Wrote: Thanks, now I know what I’m looking for il try and check the setting on those in the next couple of days, no3 looks like it’s a pain to get to, possibly remove starter motor?
Yes, moving the starter is the easiest way to get at the No.3 pilot screw.
I’d recommend getting a bit of clear tubing to check the fuel levels in the float bowls too. It’s rare for a float to need adjustment, but quite common for the O-ring around the valve to fail and cause flooding.
Re: Pilot screw - Garfeild - 13-05-19
Update
Redid the process again this morning, was able to take a bit more time as I’ve got the day off, took the starter motor off, and set all pilot screws to 2 1/2 turns out, as in the Haynes manual, got everything set up, I found I could just prop the tank up, like a car bonnet, using a bit of plastic waste pipe with notches cut in The ends to secure it against whatever shape it touched at each end ( I’m a plumber, so got odd lengths of all sorts of pipe laying around )
Made sure I had the carbtune in a dead vertical position, did TPS, warmed up and found no 3 was way out, 1&2 needed a little adjustment 3&4 needed a big adjustment, then 1&2/3&4 needed a big adjustment.
So, after that it ticked over a lot better, sounded a lot smoother and picked up on the throttle a lot better, not been out for a ride yet, knees a bit sore as I did a 45 mile charity cycle ride yesterday, so I’ll check that in due course.
Thanks for all the help ?
Re: Pilot screw - BBROWN1664 - 20-05-19
(13-05-19, 11:58 AM)Garfeild link Wrote: all pilot screws to 2 1/2 turns out, as in the Haynes manual
The Yamaha manual in the download section says 2 turns.Personally, I have never had to adjust them.
Re: Pilot screw - Garfeild - 28-05-19
It says for the 2002/03 bikes that it should be 2 1/2 turns, but 2 turns for the older bikes, I’ve just been out and started it from cold, and it’s back to sounding like it’s running on 3 cylinders f**k
Re: Pilot screw - Fazerider - 28-05-19
I see you’d checked the plugs were all sparking, but they can behave differently when out.
Have the plug caps ever been changed? If they’re the originals (black right angle) then they’re renowned for causing misfires, if they're straight red ones they've been changed for NGK SD05F type which are more dependable.
It's also worth trimming the lead where it screws into the plug cap, the wire core can corrode… lopping 8mm or so off the end gives the screw something conductive again.
Re: Pilot screw - Garfeild - 28-05-19
They’re the black right angle caps, the bike was laid up for years, only done 2k miles from new, apparently the carbs were professionally cleaned by the previous owner when it was recommissioned,so I’m hoping that was done correctly, they were out of balance so obviously weren’t set up when refitted.
I’ll get a set of the new caps,I need to eliminate those before digging deeper.
Incidentally the bike runs fine when warmed, acceleration and running at high revs fine, so if I need to remove the carbs and clean/check/adjust, it can wait until winter.
Thanks again.
Re: Pilot screw - redmandan - 28-05-19
Your warm up problems are very similar to mine. I think it might just be something about the fazers. When I got my bike 3 years ago I fitted new NGK caps, trimmed the leads, whipped the carbs off and gave a full clean, balanced carbs, new rubber intake manifolds and new plugs.
Every time I start the bike I feel the exhaust pipes and 3rd warms up much slower than the others. After a ride they’re all piping hot. No flat spots in the rev range and pulls away smoothly so it’s just something I’ve accepted.
Re: Pilot screw - Disorderlypunk - 29-05-19
ok not managed to read everyones replys as in bit of a rush today
i did a vid on this and found balancing imposible due to a miss placed spring on the MIDDLE balance screw so it wouldnt return no matter how much i unscrewed and there fore couldnt balance (it was seriously off aswell)
im hoping than this is your problem because as it is not moving at all then your more likely looking at valve clearances (easy) and if all that is good then it could easily be a head off and reseat your valves (dont worry i did a video on doing that aswell)
balancing - https://youtu.be/Yh-vl43DTSA
reseating valve - https://youtu.be/3qgFouYlbuU
Re: Pilot screw - Disorderlypunk - 29-05-19
and im assuming you have given your carbs a clean to ensure there isnt gunk blocking any of the jets
not just a tub of redex in the tank, i mean a proper clean (it is a ballache getting past that airbox though)
Re: Pilot screw - Garfeild - 30-05-19
They were supposed to have been “professionally cleaned” prior to the bike going back on the road, although there’s no receipt to confirm this.
Re: Pilot screw - Garfeild - 01-06-19
Well new plug caps haven’t made any difference, I’ve noticed or seems to run perfect when on choke no lumpy running, but when the choke is backed off, that’s when it seems to run on 3 cylinders with no3 pipe not getting as hot as quick as the others.
I think a carb removal and check may be on the cards, but I’ll do that in winter, when the bike won’t be getting used so much
Re: Pilot screw - Trebus - 01-06-19
If you can get hold of an ultrasonic bath you’ll be able to clean the carbs 100%. Cleaning the ‘old’ way using carb cleaner solvent just doesn’t seem to remove the varnish left behind by modern ethanol mixed petrol. The 6 litre types are about £85 on eBay and work a treat
Re: Pilot screw - Garfeild - 02-06-19
Do the carbs have to be stripped to go in the tank, or bung em in all in one piece?
Re: Pilot screw - Disorderlypunk - 03-06-19
(02-06-19, 11:58 AM)Garfeild link Wrote: Do the carbs have to be stripped to go in the tank, or bung em in all in one piece?if the tank is big enough just part stripped, tops/botoms off remove sliders, jets out to go in seperatly
(whole carbs can go in but the more removed easier it is for debris to come out internally)
just had a thought and it will be easy enough to check now and save time later - might be worth checking your fuel levels in your carb
(4-16 in manual) somethings niggling me about the running ok on choke making me wonder why its running lean the rest of the time.