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+--- Thread: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU (/showthread.php?tid=75091)
Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - joebloggs - 04-03-16
Hi
Is it possible, can I loop the wires at the ECU fooling it into thinking that the sidestand is always up and the bike permanently in neutral?
I know it can be done by just bridging in the loom but I want to lighten the loom somewhat............... ahem
2000 FZS600
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - Gnasher - 04-03-16
The bike doesn't have an ECU as such in that it's not a closed loop, All you need do is bridge the connectors.
But why?
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - joebloggs - 04-03-16
(04-03-16, 09:43 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: The bike doesn't have an ECU as such in that it's not a closed loop, All you need do is bridge the the connectors.
But why?
Moving the loom back under the tailpiece (z750 twin) so the smaller the loom the better, removing them wont save much but every little helps
Thanks
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - Gnasher - 04-03-16
(04-03-16, 09:50 AM)joebloggs link Wrote: Moving the loom back under the tailpiece (z750 twin)
What model year is the bike?
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - joebloggs - 04-03-16
My bikes a 2000 fzs600
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - Gnasher - 04-03-16
Hang on I'm confused now :wall
I assumed you was referring to your FZS, but then you said "Moving the loom back under the tailpiece (z750 twin) so the smaller the loom the better, removing them wont save much but every little helps"
[size=1em]Which suggest the work is being done to a z750? Hence my questions what year/model is it.[/size]
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - BBROWN1664 - 04-03-16
Fooling a bike to think it is in neutral wont help performance. Some ECU's limit performance until they recognise it is in a certain gear (and not neutral)
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - darrsi - 04-03-16
I'm hearing it that he has a modded Z750 tailpiece on his 600 Fazer, and he doesn't want to use the side stand cut out switch at all.
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - Punkstig - 04-03-16
Unbolt the switch unit tie it up somewhere with the switch closed up!
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - Gnasher - 04-03-16
(04-03-16, 12:11 PM)darrsi link Wrote: I'm hearing it that he has a modded Z750 tailpiece on his 600 Fazer, and he doesn't want to use the side stand cut out switch at all
Yep that's what I'm thinking now.
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - Punkstig - 04-03-16
As for the clutch switch it's just a plastic pin that can be snipped off at the lever!
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - joebloggs - 05-03-16
Sorry for not making it clear. Fzs600 with Z750 tail.
I'm guessing that both circuits take the neutral signal from the cdi/ecu to either run or not depending on whether either is in the correct position, what I want to know is can both be bypassed at the cdi
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - Gnasher - 05-03-16
Loop out the plug on the loom side this should fool the circuit into thinking the switch is still there.
All that said if you are just moving the ignition module into the new tail piece you shouldn't have to worry about all this as you're moving the whole unit, even if you have to loop up the loom to shorten it. Basically you shouldn't have to cut anything, other than splice in the rear lights, indicators as all you're doing is fitting a new bit of plastic? Obviously I'm saying that as all you've said is just that fitting a Z750 tail unit.
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - joebloggs - 10-03-16
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=8
Think I've found it.
Section 8 on the down load is electrics, checkout section within for starting circuit. Starter relay (7) and safety cut out relay (9) have a Blue/White wire connecting them and a Black (Earth?) going into the relay. To test for continuity you put 12v to Red/Black and Black/Yellow with the circuit tester on L/W B and if alls well you should have made the circuit. So forget the black on the relay (just confusing the issue) how about connecting L/W from the starter relay to L/W at the starter switch (55)
I know there are other issues with bypassing the relay but for now I just want thoughts on whether this would complete the starting circuit
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - Val - 10-03-16
(10-03-16, 07:22 PM)joebloggs link Wrote: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=8
Think I've found it.
Section 8 on the down load is electrics, checkout section within for starting circuit. Starter relay (7) and safety cut out relay (9) have a Blue/White wire connecting them and a Black (Earth?) going into the relay. To test for continuity you put 12v to Red/Black and Black/Yellow with the circuit tester on L/W B and if alls well you should have made the circuit. So forget the black on the relay (just confusing the issue) how about connecting L/W from the starter relay to L/W at the starter switch (55)
I know there are other issues with bypassing the relay but for now I just want thoughts on whether this would complete the starting circuit
IMO it would. But you have said you want to reduce the loop this way you are doing more connections?
You can bypass the neutral swicth by just connecting the LG on the safety cut out relay (9)to the Black Earth.
I still cannot understand what is the goal of bypassing safety cut out relay in both cases? You just risk to trip over the bike if you start in gear...
Re: Bypassing Clutch and sidestand switch at the ECU - joebloggs - 11-03-16
Tbh there is nothing left of the loom other than ignition and charging circuits, so I needed to make sure the starter circuit is sound before shortening it further to fit in the limited space available