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+--- Thread: Fork oil change (/showthread.php?tid=71495)
Fork oil change - slimwilly - 07-02-15
could some time overwhelmed Fooker point me to the best "method" of a fork oil change,,,many thanks
Re: Fork oil change - noggythenog - 07-02-15
Fork off slim you sarky forker :lol
Re: Fork oil change - unfazed - 07-02-15
Manual in the download section would be a good place to start :lol
Re: Fork oil change - slimwilly - 08-02-15
(07-02-15, 10:08 PM)unfazed link Wrote: Manual in the download section would be a good place to start :lol
Ooh,thanks,,the obvious is never that obvious to the un obvious
Re: Fork oil change - unfazed - 08-02-15
So glad I could help :lol
Re: Fork oil change - slimwilly - 23-02-15
That was a lot of good :'(
what do you do when you open the download section =doh :o
Re: Fork oil change - noggythenog - 23-02-15
Changing fork oil is easy Slim
Just pop it into the stealers :rolleyes ...well thats what ill be doing anyway
Some things i just cannot be arsed learning.
Re: Fork oil change - slimwilly - 23-02-15
haha, good option,
i have serviced a few forks in days gone by,, i used to do a few Marzocchi MTB forks,upside down ones too, those had rebound and compression on both legs.
I would rather see if i can get any info first,tips,what not to do etc ,
Loads of videos on you tube, none that i see of the same forks
Re: Fork oil change - unfazed - 24-02-15
Click on this link to download the Gen 2 manual http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=55 it is the 2008 model but the precedure is the same on all
Take note of the number of rings showing on the preload adjuster.
Unscrew the preload adjuster to full soft. (all rings showing)
With wheel and mudguard off
Loosen the top yolk pinch bolt FIRST
Loosen the fork cap nut
Loosen the lower pinch bolts
Unscrew the Cap nut completely
Compress the fork leg fully to expose the damper rod and spacer (Take a picture to assist in putting it back in the right order
)You may need to make up a compressor to fit the holes in the spacer to compress the spring a bit.
Use and open ended spanner to and a ring spanner on the cap nut to undo the lock nut effect of the nut on the damper rod with the adjuster, screw off the adjuster
Withdraw the inner damper rod
Measure the distance from the nut to the top of the damper rod to ensure you put it back to the same point.
Now Compress the spring to remove the nut
Remove the compressor the spacer and the spring
Drain the oil pumping the damper rod to get all the oil out.
Do one leg at the time and you won't mix up the compression and rebound adjusters, if you do decide to do both legs together do not mix them up as the adjuster and rod are different in both legs.
Re: Fork oil change - Smurfbud - 25-02-15
Why do you need to undo the top yoke pinch bolt first ? is it to stop damaging the yoke?
Re: Fork oil change - richfzs - 25-02-15
Cos it compresses the fork where it clamps, stops you undoing the cap nut
Re: Fork oil change - unfazed - 25-02-15
(25-02-15, 11:59 AM)richfzs link Wrote:Cos it compresses the fork where it clamps, stops you undoing the cap nut
:thumbup
and you could damage the threads in the cap nut or fork leg or both by forcing it when compressed by the yolk
Re: Fork oil change - slimwilly - 25-02-15
Haha, you lot,,,,too late :o , i nearly rounded the top cap off,would not turn,then i loosened the top clamp and it undone easy :'( ..
I did it last night at about seven,,you found the notes at 9 pm,,lol
Got both legs out in half an hour no probs, having the bike lift is ace.
[smg id=2435 type=preview align=center caption="P1110718"]
Re: Fork oil change - slimwilly - 25-02-15
[smg id=2436 type=preview align=center caption="10"]
Only takes half an hour to get the forks off.
The bike has been stood for a while and the oil at the top was very clean then soon after out came very dark aluminium filled dirty oil,left them draining all night.
There is two ways to replace the oil, after pumping them and getting the oil out and draining all night,
Option 1= check how much oil came out,volume, and replace at this stage, supposedly fine for street style riding,and any new oil is better than old oil.
Option 2= Remove top cap,springs etc and refill and measure air gap at top of forks,after pumping and compressing oil a few times, this option is a must for racers as oil height is critical in fork tuning.
Re: Fork oil change - slimwilly - 26-02-15
So now out to garage, make a fork spring compressor and rod clip
Oil bought = 5w for both legs, it seems as though light weight people and as standard forks have between 2.5w and 5w oil ,
some slow the forks down with up to 10w oil in one or both legs.Perhaps if you are heavier, or huge braker,,,slow down :lol
Oil volume should be 545ml standard and air gap at stock is 3.75" and common up to 4" =110mm
Some have drained theirs and only got 470mls out,,thats if it all came out
.I will measure mine now in my new cheapo plastic measure jug :lol
Re: Fork oil change - noggythenog - 26-02-15
Well done mate, well beyond what id want to foc about with but fair play if it all goes to plan.
Mind dont oberfill eithr, the k tech guys said thats maybe whats up with mine and why im not able to use all the travel even with my great mass.
Re: Fork oil change - slimwilly - 26-02-15
I took out exactly 500ml from each fork,
i just put 500 ml back in the rebound side ,pumped the air out so cartridge is working and there is only 3" air gap,overfill slightly.
now have to ake some out to get just under 4"
I made a peach of a scrapyard spring compressor,pics in a bit :lol