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+--- Thread: HOWTO: Chain and Sprockets replacement (/showthread.php?tid=70314)
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HOWTO: Chain and Sprockets replacement - MC680x0 - 16-09-14
UPDATED 2014/09/19: Include chain alignment
Did this a while ago , only just got the pics from my missus' iPhone... forgive gaps/assumptions, if there are any let me know and I'll try to expand the text...
parts required:
1. DID heavy duty X-Ring chain and sprocket kit: http://www.bikespeeduk.com/chain-sprocket-kits/did-kits/did-gold-x-ring-kits/did-gold-x-ring-chain-sprocket-kit-yamaha-fzs600-fazer-97-03/prod_1665.html
2. OEM rear wheel bearing kit + seals: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/00/picture/rear_wheel_bearing_kit_with_dust_seals/
3. Yamaha OEM upgraded front sprocket nut [do the search on these forums!]: http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/yh-90891-10124/4
4. Laser chain alignment tool: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Profi-SE-CAT-Motorcycle-Chain-Alignment-Tool-Dot-Laser-Type-/271480646518?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f3581eb76
tools required:
1. torque wrench 70nm to 117nm (I have two, each covering the lower and upper ranges)
2. bearing driver
3. bearing removal/punch
4. 32mm socket for the front sprocket nut.
5. 27mm socket for the wheel spindle nut.
6. 24mm socket or spanner for the wheel spindle.
procedure:
Remove gear selector. NOTE the location of the mating punch hole. On my bike this points to the gap in the selector clamp. on refit, the punch marker must be in the same location.
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Remove the front drive sprocket cover and move it out of the way. I used a tiewrap. I cleaned inside the cover area as it was full of shite and lube which had collected years of shit from previous years of riding when the previous owner had it.
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Pull off the sprocket. The chain will come with it.
Fit new sprocket - noting the markings on the face side when in situ - and fit the upgraded nut and then fit the new locking tab and using a punch, tap the edges securely over the nut. I didnt use loctite but hey - what's the point of riding without a little risk ! The nut should be tightened to 70nm. Again, wifey with the foot on the brake and the old chain still attached will help when tightening the nut.
Loosen rear caliper torque arm bolt (I dont remove the calliper - no need to). Remove rear wheel axle nut and chain adjuster nuts. Remove axle. Note spacers and orientation of spacers, two off, one l/h wheel side and one r/h caliper side. Remove axle. I used a socket wrench to drive out the axle, hammering from the sprocket side to the calliper side. Remove the adjuster blocks. Take the wheel off. I took the opportunity to give the area a good clean - the first one for a decade by the looks of things.
With the wheel off, support it with blocks of wood so it is off the floor. Remove sprocket nuts ensuring that you remove this in a criss cross pattern. At this point I changed the wheel bearings and cush bearings. You dont need to but why not if you've got this far.
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Fit new rear sprocket noting the markings on the face when in situ. Tighten the sprocket nuts in a criss-cross pattern again, tighten upto 60Nm.
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At last, break the chain. I used a cheap £30 breaker/rivet kit off eBay. Works fine. Had it many years.
Feed the new chain over the front sprocket (the cover is still off so this makes the job easier). Fit the rear wheel, push forward, bring the new chain over the swingarm and around the rear sprocket. But the link end on a clean paper towel on the floor and rivet it up. Fit the link plate and rivets and X-ring according to the instructions. The kit should have a pack of lube that you can spread over the plate and rivets. Use the rivet tool and a vernier calliper to measure the diameter of the flared rivets. Too low and the chain will come off, too tight and it will snap !
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Align wheel using chain alignment, info here: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=14764.msg167280#msg167280
Set chain freeplay at 35mm measuring midway at chain where it crosses the leading edge of the tyre wall.
Tighten each side of the adjuster (or loosen and push wheel forward) so that the chain runs true through to the front sprocket. Tighten adjuster locking nuts to 17nm.
Tighten axle nut to 117nM and tighten the calliper nut to 40nM.
And at last, refit sprocket cover and tighten nuts to 10nM
Finally refit gear selector noting notch location on refit.
END OF
If anyone is having a problem or needs more explanation, post below.
By the way, the laser chain alignment tool is a must. The markers on my swingarm are out so if you were tightening up the rear wheel using the adjustment markers then you may have cocked the wheel and make the bike unstable at speed. This is a common fault on many bikes I have worked on. Those tools with a metal rod are ok, but not as good as the laser tool. For £30 odd quid it pays for itself in bike performance and safety
Hope this helps.
Re: Chain and Sprocket fit - darrsi - 16-09-14
Do 4 at a time!!!
Re: Chain and Sprocket fit - positron - 17-09-14
Or create an imgur album, nice and tidy.
Re: Chain and Sprocket fit - MC680x0 - 17-09-14
I shall create an image album later and try to complete this thread. thanks muchly; probably of limited value to experienced guys like you but hey someone may find it helpful.
Re: Chain and Sprocket fit - MC680x0 - 17-09-14
Just spendt30+ minutes uploading images and using the image URL button to add images from my library, but none of the images are displayed and I've lost the URL [or so it seems] within the OP? Is there a library setting I need. I could see them in situ when I was compiling the post.
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - limax2 - 17-09-14
Wondered why I couldn't see the images :\ . Good luck with them.
On a more helpful note maybe you should mention in the tools required:-
32mm socket for the front sprocket nut.
27mm socket for the wheel spindle nut.
24mm socket or spanner for the wheel spindle.
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - MC680x0 - 17-09-14
(17-09-14, 09:11 PM)limax2 link Wrote: Wondered why I couldn't see the images :\ . Good luck with them.Good idea. Done.
On a more helpful note maybe you should mention in the tools required:-
32mm socket for the front sprocket nut.
27mm socket for the wheel spindle nut.
24mm socket or spanner for the wheel spindle.
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - positron - 17-09-14
I can see images in the original post. Thank you so much for this top class post. I am going to give it a go, I have no reason not to now..
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - MC680x0 - 17-09-14
cool. I've missed a few photos off when doing the job but will try to recreate and upload additional images later in the week.
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - midden - 17-09-14
I like the idea of that laser adjuster.That said, I liked the idea of the laser level I bought until I put it on the wall and found it to be atleast 30 degrees out.
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - MC680x0 - 18-09-14
Yeah, the problem with the laser pointers for £1 from poundland, the laser levels from b&q for a fiver, the laser tape measures and all that... is that they are not calibrated accurately. These tools from profi are. They have an error margin of 0.05%. That's why they're £40+ . you get what you pay for and to me, a safe and reliable drive chain and wheel alignment is essential.
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - limax2 - 18-09-14
Nice handy article and well done with the photo's :thumbup .
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - midden - 19-09-14
(18-09-14, 07:33 AM)tweetytek link Wrote: Yeah, the problem with the laser pointers for £1 from poundland, the laser levels from b&q for a fiver, the laser tape measures and all that... is that they are not calibrated accurately. These tools from profi are. They have an error margin of 0.05%. That's why they're £40+ . you get what you pay for and to me, a safe and reliable drive chain and wheel alignment is essential.I really like the idea of this tool and will no doubt be buying one. Do you not think £40 is a bit cheap though :evil
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - MC680x0 - 19-09-14
Too cheap???
The dot laser is £40. The line laser from profi is more.. about £65. Not cheap I would say but your paying for the accuracy of the line/dot, cheap levels and b&q type laser equipped tape measures are crap as the line isn't straight
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - MC680x0 - 19-09-14
wheel alignment here: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=14764.msg167280#msg167280
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - YamFazFan - 21-09-14
How important would you say it is to fit the upgraded front sprocket nut?.I bought the upgraded nut a while ago,but because the bike is low miles and the chain & sprockets are in fine nick,havn't got round to fitting it yet.I've had a peer behind the sprocket cover,with the aid of a torch,and the original (I assume) nut is still in place.Am I right in thinking that this wasn't an issue on every 600?.
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - MC680x0 - 21-09-14
There was a technical bulletin issued by yam , to replace the nut under routine servic or repair. It wasn't a recall so more a 'prevention better than cure' task. For the time it takes and the damage it can prevent, it's a no brainer really. But... It does not have to be done , some bikes have done 000's of trouble free miles, others have shattered the transmission. Up to you. Took me 4 minutes !
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - YamFazFan - 21-09-14
Ta for info.So it's just possible that I may already have the upgraded nut fitted? (as the bike has been to Yamaha dealers for servicing before).I guess I need to have a closer look and compare the 2 sprocket nuts.
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - MC680x0 - 21-09-14
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=41
If your dealer is genuine and decent... They will have done it but check by visual inspection first
Re: Chain and Sprocket HOWTO - darrsi - 21-09-14
Take the sprocket cover off and if you can see any thread at all it's the old type nut.
The new one is flush to the end of the thread.