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+--- Thread: Clutch Adjustment (/showthread.php?tid=66479)
Clutch Adjustment - adeejaysdelight - 28-11-13
I replaced the clutch friction plates on my FZS 600 Boxeye and am having trouble getting the bloody thing to work. I fitted a set of EBC heavy duty springs, but did not like the feel, so I re-fitted the original springs. The plates were replaced also with EBC heavy duty ones and the clutch was assembled as it was dismantled, same number of plates in the same order. Everything is torqued up to the correct settings and I replaced the cable too. I had a look at everything working before I replaced the clutch cover and it seems to be operating as it should. Pull lever in, pressure plate moves out... Ok then.
When I start the bike and pop it into first gear, it stalls with a little lurch forward (only little as the front brake is applied). I have would the adjuster at the lever all the way IN (which gives the maximum amount of slack, right?), and adjusted the screw down at the sprocket cover to Haynes recommendations (tighten until you feel resistance, then back a quarter turn). I have also tried unwinding the screw full, which makes the lever redundant (slack), and screwing it up beyond "feel resistance", which makes the lever VERY tight. The outcome is the same - bike stalls.
I am at the end of my tether and feel like I might have to go to a bike mechanic. I have never ever had to do this before. If there is anything else I can try before it comes to that, I will.
Any ideas foccers?
Re: Clutch Adjustment - bigbluebear - 28-11-13
This might sound obvious but is the side stand down when you put it in gear :o
Re: Clutch Adjustment - mickvp - 28-11-13
just to clarify, you had it totally built up and working with the heavy duty springs - so the bike was riding? and has only stopped since you put the OEM springs back in?
if you never had it working, even with the HD springs in, is the stack height definitely correct?
Re: Clutch Adjustment - adeejaysdelight - 28-11-13
The side stand is not the problem :b
The clutch was NOT working properly with the EBC springs, but it felt weird, so they were replaced. I am not sure if the stack height is right or not. I ordered bike specific friction plates and fitted the same amount as was removed. The pressure plate sits flush and moves out when the lever is applied, giving a good few mm of a gap. It feels like the clutch is engaged all the time though, even with the lever fully pulled in.
Re: Clutch Adjustment - pete786.u - 28-11-13
Were the new plain plates covered with anything to stop them corroding before they were fitted? Perhaps they need cleaning off to stop them sticking.
Re: Clutch Adjustment - mickvp - 28-11-13
(28-11-13, 08:40 PM)adeejaysdelight link Wrote: The side stand is not the problem :b
The clutch was NOT working properly with the EBC springs, but it felt weird, so they were replaced. I am not sure if the stack height is right or not. I ordered bike specific friction plates and fitted the same amount as was removed. The pressure plate sits flush and moves out when the lever is applied, giving a good few mm of a gap. It feels like the clutch is engaged all the time though, even with the lever fully pulled in.
thats what I was thinking, sounds as though its not disengaging properly. Odds are if you ordered (and were sent) the correct ones the stack height is ok. not sure if the haynes book of lies quotes a plate thickness?
as pete has said, maybe there is a coating on the plates that is causing issues as well?
Re: Clutch Adjustment - adeejaysdelight - 29-11-13
The new plates were not corroded at all. I also soaked them in oil, as recommended. Ma heed is pure burstin!
Re: Clutch Adjustment - mickvp - 29-11-13
according to the haynes book of lies there are 16 plates in total:
9 friction plates (8 ordinary, 1 overside internal diameter), and 8 plain plates. the friction plates should have a thickness of 2.94 to 3.06 mm, and the plain plates a thickness of 1.9 to 2.1 mm.
so your stack height should be anywhere between 41.66mm and 44.34mm.
did you definately put the friction plate with the bigger internal diameter in the right place (after fitting the anti judder spring?)
Re: Clutch Adjustment - adeejaysdelight - 29-11-13
Possibly not Mick. Looks like I might need to order a new gasket :o
Where is that plate going, by the way?
Re: Clutch Adjustment - mickvp - 29-11-13
i think you put a normal friction plate in first, then a normal plain plate, then you put the anti-judder spring in. after that goes this oversize plate, then its just alternating plain plates and friction plates.
thats my understanding at least, but im no clutch expert mind
Re: Clutch Adjustment - Dead Eye - 29-11-13
I had similar issues when I did the clutch on mine - had it stripped down at least a dozen times, if not more
I had the plates in the wrong order such that the oversized friction plate was in the wrong place... I also managed to replace the pressure plate incorrectly on one rebuild and promptly broke the entire basket... don't do that... its not fun...
Re: Clutch Adjustment - adeejaysdelight - 29-11-13
Thanks for that Mick. I also broke a pressure plate :rolleyes , its sorted now though. So do you concur with the order Mick suggested then? Is that the order in which it worked for you deadeye...?
Re: Clutch Adjustment - mickvp - 29-11-13
According to Haynes:
Quote:On FZS models, first fit a
friction plate, then a plain plate, then install
the anti-judder spring. Now fit the friction
plate with the larger internal diameter over the
spring. Now alternate plain and friction plates
until all are installed. Coat each plate with
engine oil prior to installation.
Re: Clutch Adjustment - Dead Eye - 29-11-13
If I remember correctly, the Haynes or somewhere (or possibly in my head) didn't make it clear that one friction plate had a larger internal diameter to accommodate the anti-judder spring - I was using a mix of two sets of clutch plates to make one working clutch (don't ask). In the end I discovered this error in the ordering
The order listed by mick is correct
Not sure if you have seen this or its any use at this stage, but just in case anyone drops by for a read I'll leave it here
Fazer Clutch Replacement
Re: Clutch Adjustment - adeejaysdelight - 29-11-13
Thank you guys. I will have to take the foccin clutch cover off again then, just to double check :rolleyes . I won't be able to do that till Tuesday at the soonest, but most likely Wednesday. I will report back.
Re: Clutch Adjustment - chaz - 30-11-13
I've never changed a clutch on a jap bike, infact never put new plates in a bike clutch but have rebuilt a few on old british bikes, much the same as in the video some only had three springs and what you had to check was that when you pulled the clutch lever in that the pressure plate lifted of square and if it didn't you altered the tension on the springs till it did, never had much trouble with clutches but most bikes were under 50 BHP then, lol.
Another point when starting if the bike hasn't been started for a day or so and any longer it's more important, this is what I do, engage 1st gear pull clutch in and rock bike to free clutch make sure ignition is on put bike into neutral with clutch held in start bike and engage 1st gear it goes straight in without that clunk, the other way is to start it in gear (holding the clutch in) but there is a certain amount drag this way?
Re: Clutch Adjustment - Deefer666 - 02-12-13
Did you lose the ball bearing that sits on the end of the push rod?
Re: Clutch Adjustment - adeejaysdelight - 04-12-13
The clutch is sorted. Mick, you were spot on. The friction plate with the larger internal diameter was in the wrong place. I took it apart, sorted the order and adjusted everything as required. It feels great now. Thank everyone :thumbup
Re: Clutch Adjustment - mickvp - 04-12-13
Good stuff matey, glad to help