(18-04-13, 02:05 PM)jadejordan link Wrote: Hi - I am going to fit some Oxford Original Headed grips to my FZ1 (2007) and want to connect them to an ignition circuit so they switch off when the ignition is turned of. ( had them on battery on last bike and kept forgetting to switch of and often had flat battery)

Does any one know the best place / circuit to connect them to as it says in the manual do not connect to light or horn circuits as it needs up to 4a.

I am useless with electrics so an idiots guide or pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks

Quote:I installed a electrical distribution block and relay, and symtec grip heaters on the new FZ-1.  I'll briefly outline the process here, and insert a few pictures to demonstrate visually.  The distro block and relay are part of the Electrical Connections package, and the grip heaters are Symtecs.  Both items  were purchased from http://casporttouring.com, and arrived within 3 days of the order being placed.  It probably makes sense for anyone following this to read everything and look at the pictures before starting out.  Also, there are more pics at http://bluesurf.smugmug.com/gallery/1252611/2.
Beside the already-acquired components, then a few additional things were purchased.  I also made sure the stock of black zip-ties and closed-circle wire ends was full.

First I removed the passenger and rider seats.  Then, from the rear, I took off the strap over the battery and the cover that it retains. I removed and stowed away the negative terminal cable, then did the same with the positive.
Next off were the front right and left plastic panels.  There are two phillips screws on each one, as well as two allen head screws.  I put the screws in a zip-loc bag to keep them organized and separated.
The airbox cover and gas tank came off next.  The airbox cover has 5 allen screws.  Remove the 2 small ones on each lower side of the airbox, and also the two longer ones in each middle side.  There is also one in the middle just below the steering stem.  As before these were stored in a zip-loc bag.
The gas tank has two allen screws, one on each forward edge.  I removed and stored these.  I then used some tie-downs to support the gas tank in an up position, using the rear passenger grab rails to loop them through.  The right-side panel next to the battery was also removed.  It has one primary phillips screw towards the rear of the bike, and two "push-fit" connectors towards the front.  Pics of the two forward holes from this item are below in the side-view of the relay.
Now it was time for the relay and distro block.  The relay is going to be housed in the small area just forward of the battery, to the right side of the bike.  The distribution block will be located on the inside plastic of the right fairing.
Next I prepared the relay wire that connects directly to the battery.  I cut off ~6" of the wire, and crimped on a closed-circle wire end.  The relay was then placed in the area in front of the battery, and zip-tied securely.

Next I inspected the right front inside fairing where the distribution block was destined for.  While holding the block in place, I pressed two of the zip-tie holders and one wire holder in place.  I kept all of them held down for a minute or so to let the adhesive stick well.

A relay power switch on (ignition on) source was needed.  Even though it was a few feet away, then I decided to go with the right turn signal.  The supplied wire was long enough, and a wire loom was already going to run from the relay position to the area.  The signal and wiring comes apart by means of a connector that sits directly underneath the right headlight.  It's y-shaped, to house three wires, and comes apart by lifting on a small tab in between one of the sides.  I was able to easily push the tab up with my short fingernail, then separate the two pieces of the connector.  The signal stalk is held onto the fairing by both a double-tabbed plastic ring that sits on the inside, and a molded plastic end on the stalk.  Remove the double-tabbed plastic ring by simultaneously pushing in on the top and bottom of it, and then slowly but firmly pull the stalk out, paying attention to the molded portion as it comes through the fairing.  It helps to pull the stalk at a bit of an angle in order to free up the molded portion.
After briefly hooking the battery back up and toggling the ignition/signal with a multimeter applied, then I determined that the blue wire provided ignition on power and no pulsing when the signal itself was on.  I cut the signal wire covering closest to the connector, applied a t-connector to the blue wire, and tested it again for continuity and functionality.  The cut connector covering was then re-covered, and the signal stalk reinserted.  I didn't reconnect the connector just yet, though.
I gave a quick check to the holders in the distro block area to make sure that they were staying on, and were expected to.  They all looked good.
Next up was a wire loom on the right side of the bike, between the front and mid-areas.  The power wire from the distribution block and the relay ignition on wire were inserted, then the loom pushed through.  I used the area in the frame under the ignition, then on to the right side of the airbox cover, and finally under the rear gas tank hinge to the battery area.  Zip ties were used to keep the loom in place and clear of the right fork in the front.
Once the wire loom was routed, then I inserted the spade-connected end of the relay ignition on wire into the t-connector in the signal wiring.  I then connected the y-shaped connector from the end of the signal wiring back up with its mate underneath the right headlight.  The other wire in the loom, that would supply the distribution block power, had a spade end crimped on, and was then connected to the power out lead from the relay.
Next I ran the power and relay ignition through the white wire connector in the front area, then ran zip-ties through each of the zip-tie holders, through the ends of the distribution block, and cinched everything up fairly tight.  I intentionally left some slack in order to not put maximum strain on the items holding things in place.
The grip heaters, along with new Progrip gel grips, had actually been put on the night before, but now needed to be wired up and the switch itself installed.  After using increasingly large drill bits on the left-side plastic panel, then the switch itself was fit into position and tightened down. The wires were routed along towards the left side, where the switch would reside, with the right-side grip wires going through the hollow area underneath the ignition. I connected the left and right wires up on the left-hand side, just in front of where the front of the airbox cover goes.  A zip-tie was used to hold them in place, securely but with the ability to pull through if required.  I then looped the wires around once more, and applied another zip-tie, this one more loosely but securely.  If any unforeseen wire strain was encountered, this loop would provide a few inches of slack.

The white and blue grip heater wires were connected up and set aside.  The red ground wires were nowhere near long enough, so I attached another wire long enough to reach back to the battery, and inserted all three of them in a waterproofed twist-wire connector.  The newly attached long wire was then routed back to the battery, in much the same fashion as the wire loom was, but on the left side of the bike, and partially through the looped grip wires described above.  The end of the ground wire then had a closed-circle connector attached to it and was set next to the other ground/negative terminal wires.
The wire supplied to power the grips on was not long enough to reach across the bike to the distribution block, and I didn't have another spade connector that would fit, unfortunately.  So I spliced up another foot or so of power wire, and then ran that through the hollow area and across to the block, inserting it into the wire loom half-way along the way.  I also connected up the grip switch, after placing towels around the plastic to prevent any scratching.


The battery terminals were then connected up, everything double-checked, and the bike fired up.  After checking all of the lights and waiting for any smoke or shorts, then I flipped the heated grips switch to High.....45 seconds or so of idling later I could feel heat in both sides, so shut things down.
The airbox cover was reinstalled first...it's a bit of a fit, so I recommend installing one of the shorter lower screws, then the matching one on the other side.  After that the middle screws and main one should install easily.  The gas tank was next, with its two bolts, then the right and left front panels.  The side panel was reinstalled, the battery leads, cover, and strap reattached, and the seats reinstalled.

mmmmm, warm hands!  Next up is sorting out the voltmeter, gps and radar detector wiring.  I also plan to order a slightly more attractive and waterproof switch for the heated grips.....will probably go with a Blue Sea model, as they've proven worthy before.

(18-04-13, 07:16 PM)VNA link Wrote: If you take it off lighting circuits etc you are only going to overload those circuits.