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+--- Thread: Whoever posts last is best (/showthread.php?tid=81061)
Re: Whoever posts last is best - fazerscotty - 05-03-24
(05-03-24, 12:16 PM)robbo link Wrote: I've stopped trying, not that I ever started :lol .
My problem is (and the Doc agreed), that when I work away, there is very little, easily obtainable, sensible food options and you can easily end up bored of pub grub as the menu's literally the same everywhere you go. (That's primarily due to pubs no longer physically cooking, but nuking pre-prepared food instead).
I suppose working away from home on a fairly regular basis, even for short periods, does put the brakes on eating proper food. As you say, most pub grub is batch cooked and then frozen, to be nuked at a later date. You do wonder how so many options can be offered on the menu in some smaller places, as their kitchen wouldn’t be big enough if it was all fresh. But then it would be a darn sight dearer. Is working away from home fairly constant throughout the year for you, or more seasonal?
Fairly constant at the moment - I drove 2500 miles in just over 3 weeks (Jan 28th - Feb 21st) and I think the cycle is about to start again. Got a trip to Edinburgh week after next lol.
Re: Whoever posts last is best - robbo - 09-03-24
Very difficult to have a settled diet then. Plenty of work keeps the wolves from the door, so all good in the long run :thumbup
Re: Whoever posts last is best - fazerscotty - 10-03-24
(09-03-24, 12:14 PM)robbo link Wrote: Very difficult to have a settled diet then. Plenty of work keeps the wolves from the door, so all good in the long run :thumbup
I am aiming at a few days off so I can get the Fazer ready for the new season. Got all of the parts - just need the time to deal with it all.
Re: Whoever posts last is best - robbo - 11-03-24
I am aiming at a few days off so I can get the Fazer ready for the new season. Got all of the parts - just need the time to deal with it all.
Fork oil change today….£19 for a litre of Motul’s finest 7.5wt :eek . Callipers and exup valve service tomorrow, then should be set for another season of fun and frolics.
Re: Whoever posts last is best - fazerscotty - 19-03-24
And there's me trying to get enough time to swap out the inlet valve shims (which are all measuring tight) and that's just the start of the list. Bead Blasting cabinet arrived today, so that's got too find a home on Saturday in the workshop first. Then I can clean off all of the bits and pieces not dealt with properly on previous fettling sessions seasons
.Wife's Birthday on Monday, so far I've sorted out a family get together on Sunday and I've suggested a trip to Ikea on Monday - going for maximum brownie points this time - maybe, just maybe I'll get a couple of hours piece........ :lol :lol :lol
My list is:
Valve Clearances
The cylinder head coolant tubes are corroded - blast and refinish
All the engine covers - blast and refinish (including valve cover) & new gaskets.
Front of engine - clean and repaint (including the engine mounting brackets and bars and the coolant tubes)
Exhaust - clean and polish headers - I might repack the baffle (that's only 'a' might)
Carbs - adjust mixture screws, balance etc. (A couple of the pots are running rich and I also might do the airbox mod at the same time)
New radiator.
I've also currently got the sump off - I wanted to see if at 85k miles, the 10w40 car oil I had previously been using has had any negative effects - no it hasn't lol. (I changed to 5w30 last year, so that the Fazer 1000, Yamaha 600 Diversion, Honda VT750, Ford Focus 2.0 TDI and Chrysler 300 CRD diesel are all on the same oil - didn't make any difference to the Fazer, so I think that's the oil of choice for this year - £50 for 20 litres on ebay :lol :lol )
I have already upgraded the lamps in the instrument cluster and I have new clock faces to fit if I feel like it.
I do want to strip and clean the rear caliper - not that it gets used very much!
And I keep looking at the front tyre - I have a new one so it's only an extra hour or so to fit and balance.
Anyway here's a picture of the clock faces - I have a spare set for sale if anyone's interested.
Re: Whoever posts last is best - robbo - 22-03-24
Wow, you’re certainly going to town, maintenance extreme, excellent. 50 quid for 20 litres, I’ve just paid that for 5 litres of fully synth. I know using fully synth is considered over the top, but after switching to it at around 12k miles, after reading an article posted by Falcon, I’ve stuck with fully synth, although Motul, which I use, is one of the more expensive brands.
I’ve just changed the brake fluid front and back, as my final pre season maintenance. The rear brake is the best I’ve had on any bike, but for some reason, no doubt the tortuous route of the hose, always gives me grief getting it bled properly. Had to resort to removing the torque arm and threading the calliper through the wheel, in order to get it higher than the master cylinder. Always works, but a chore I could have done without. Some new nipple dust caps should arrive today, as the Hel ones haven’t lasted very well, and that should be about it until the front tyre will want changing after my Le Mans trip next month. Good luck with your project, Spring is just around the corner :thumbup
Re: Whoever posts last is best - fazerscotty - 29-03-24
(19-03-24, 10:03 PM)fazerscotty link Wrote: And there's me trying to get enough time to swap out the inlet valve shims (which are all measuring tight) and that's just the start of the list. Bead Blasting cabinet arrived today, so that's got too find a home on Saturday in the workshop first. Then I can clean off all of the bits and pieces not dealt with properly on previous fettling sessions seasons
Wife's Birthday on Monday, so far I've sorted out a family get together on Sunday and I've suggested a trip to Ikea on Monday - going for maximum brownie points this time - maybe, just maybe I'll get a couple of hours piece........ :lol :lol :lol
My list is:
Valve Clearances
The cylinder head coolant tubes are corroded - blast and refinish
All the engine covers - blast and refinish (including valve cover) & new gaskets.
Front of engine - clean and repaint (including the engine mounting brackets and bars and the coolant tubes)
Exhaust - clean and polish headers - I might repack the baffle (that's only 'a' might)
Carbs - adjust mixture screws, balance etc. (A couple of the pots are running rich and I also might do the airbox mod at the same time)
New radiator.
I've also currently got the sump off - I wanted to see if at 85k miles, the 10w40 car oil I had previously been using has had any negative effects - no it hasn't lol. (I changed to 5w30 last year, so that the Fazer 1000, Yamaha 600 Diversion, Honda VT750, Ford Focus 2.0 TDI and Chrysler 300 CRD diesel are all on the same oil - didn't make any difference to the Fazer, so I think that's the oil of choice for this year - £50 for 20 litres on ebay :lol :lol )
I have already upgraded the lamps in the instrument cluster and I have new clock faces to fit if I feel like it.
[size=1em]I do want to strip and clean the rear caliper - not that it gets used very much![/size]
And I keep looking at the front tyre - I have a new one so it's only an extra hour or so to fit and balance.
Anyway here's a picture of the clock faces - I have a spare set for sale if anyone's interested.
Aaanndd..... I decided to purchase a "home electroplating kit" to get all of the bits that should be shiney, shiney again. Currently looking at anodising ingredients, as my front blue spots are different shades of blue, which quite frankly will not do :lol :lol :lol . (I'm looking at red - should blend nicely with the rest of the bike without being to blingy!)
Re: Whoever posts last is best - robbo - 30-03-24
Do you have to get some special gadget to remove the blue spot inserts. If you had a scrap of similar material you could have an anodising practise to make sure you get the desired effect on the inserts. Sounds like a great toy for sure :thumbup
Re: Whoever posts last is best - agricola - 30-03-24
There are plenty out there for sale
https://gbmotorcycleproducts.com/yamaha-blue-spot-caliper-piston-removal-tool/
Re: Whoever posts last is best - fazerscotty - 31-03-24
(30-03-24, 04:25 PM)agricola link Wrote: There are plenty out there for sale
https://gbmotorcycleproducts.com/yamaha-blue-spot-caliper-piston-removal-tool/
The one I bought is very much the same - however, I found it a little bit loose in the blue spot, so I have wrapped the tool with heat shrink (and shrunk it) as I don't want to mark the blue (soon to be red) spots when refitting. The replacement O rings are easily obtainable from Bikers toolbox.
Re: Whoever posts last is best - robbo - 03-04-24
(31-03-24, 01:07 PM)fazerscotty link Wrote: [quote author=agricola link=topic=25540.msg333533#msg333533 date=1711812341]
There are plenty out there for sale
https://gbmotorcycleproducts.com/yamaha-blue-spot-caliper-piston-removal-tool/
The one I bought is very much the same - however, I found it a little bit loose in the blue spot, so I have wrapped the tool with heat shrink (and shrunk it) as I don't want to mark the blue (soon to be red) spots when refitting. The replacement O rings are easily obtainable from Bikers toolbox.
[/quote]
Good thinking, I did wonder how good a fit the socket gadget would be. Heat shrinking it is ideal. You’d better get a wriggle on with your plans as summer will have been and gone
. Pics ASAP.
Re: Whoever posts last is best - fazerscotty - 07-04-24
So, progress (sort of). I didn't like the look of the corroded aluminium casing on the front of the crankcase. Went to take it off and both attaching bolts snapped and the casing broke.
I've learnt how to tig weld aluminium this afternoon :eek .
Re: Whoever posts last is best - fazerscotty - 07-04-24
I have removed the upper remains of the bolt - that one was easy. The other is proving a bit of a C***. I've tried heat, no joy, so I've ground it down and will drill out and retap/helicoil as required.
Re: Whoever posts last is best - fazerscotty - 07-04-24
But, by far, the best thing I've done this weekend is fitted the longer clutch operating arm. I fitted a new cable at the same time - made all of the adjustments (for a change) and I wish I had done this years ago - possibly a one finger clutch operation.
Re: Whoever posts last is best - fazerscotty - 07-04-24
All of the outer casings are now sprayed and fitted. I went to fit the sump, then realised that I still had to fit the coolant tube that goes through the sump. Following a read of someone's else's problem when they nicked an O ring, I have decided to fit the tube first, making sure that the O rings are where they should be before wrapping up the bottom end.
Re: Whoever posts last is best - Grahamm - 08-04-24
Shouldn't this have been in the What did you do with your Fazer today thread?
Re: Whoever posts last is best - robbo - 08-04-24
(07-04-24, 07:21 PM)fazerscotty link Wrote: All of the outer casings are now sprayed and fitted. I went to fit the sump, then realised that I still had to fit the coolant tube that goes through the sump. Following a read of someone's else's problem when they nicked an O ring, I have decided to fit the tube first, making sure that the O rings are where they should be before wrapping up the bottom end.Well, you’ve certainly been a busy boy. I presume you drilled the stud out ok, as I was going to suggest a gadget that I’ve got. It looks like a drill chuck with flats on the outside, and gets screwed on anti clockwise. As it’s tightened with a spanner the internal jaws grip the stud and unscrew it, usually with a high success rate.
I remember you getting an alternative clutch arm, what bike was that initially for. Good going with the tig welding. Went to night school years ago for general welding techniques. A guy there just wanted to hone his tig skills as was building a plane. Great pics, by the way :thumbup
Re: Whoever posts last is best - robbo - 08-04-24
Just read back through your carpal tunnel post, so the clutch arm is for an MT07. Did it go straight on using the original cable? Is this the correct part number 1WS 16340-00 ?
Re: Whoever posts last is best - fazerscotty - 09-04-24
Did it go straight on using the original cable? Yes
Is this the correct part number 1WS 16340-00 ? Yes
Straight swap - I fitted a new Slinky Clutch cable at the same time. I'll find out how it goes when I've completed the rest of the job.
I managed to get one of the snapped bolts out using a tool like you described - a stud puller, but the other stud has very little room for that tool. I have cut it flush with the crankcase and I'll get the drills out at the weekend (if I'm not working). I don't like using extractors of the easy out variety, never had much success with them, so I'll probably start drilling small and build up to M5. If needed, I'll helicoil it to be sure.
I forgot to take pictures of the welded casing - and I've now covered the area with JB Weld, which needs filing down to look pretty.
Re: Whoever posts last is best - robbo - 10-04-24
Thanks for your replies, very helpful. You don’t think the left handed drill and extractor method is worth a try then, as that was my only other suggestion, other than welding a nut on it, which you can’t do now. Still, I suppose you’ve had to get round similar situations on aero engines plenty of times. Getting comfortable with decent access is half the battle as you no doubt know only too well.
I changed my clutch cable a couple of years ago, purely as a precaution, but opted for a very expensive oe item. I’ll certainly consider the clutch arm mod, as having broken a knuckle on my left hand 2 months ago, it’s far from pain free. Going for a whizz on Friday as the forecast is good, to see if it’s going to be much of a problem or not.
Good luck with the stud :thumbup