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+--- Thread: Camchain replacement (/showthread.php?tid=64477)
Re: Camchain replacement - darrsi - 31-07-13
(31-07-13, 06:34 PM)garyb link Wrote: here's an open chain with rivet link, bit more expensive.
http://yamahascooterspares.co.uk/spares/partImage.asp?GPN=741.21.25&model=YAMAHA%20FZS%20600%20FAZER%2000-03&uid=0
Cheers mate.
I was on to Paul in AJ this morning about that item and after checking, he confirmed it wasn't in stock ad couldn't give me a lead time when they would have it again. The search continues!
Thanks anyway
Did you try Fowlers, i'd be surprised if they can't help you?
Re: Camchain replacement - garyb - 31-07-13
I'll have a look for them on the web now, thanks.
Re: Camchain replacement - His Dudeness - 31-07-13
On a bit of a side note I spotted that motion pro do an attachment for their rivet tool that rivets solid links. It's called a quad stake. Might be worth a go? This guy shows it at the end of his video
Motion Pro jumbo chain tool breaker 08-0135 with quad stake adapter 08-0142
Re: Camchain replacement - Ebme Geek - 01-08-13
The quad stake anvil there looks too big for doing a cam chain, do they do a smaller one. Also noticed this was called the jumbo chain tool, so does it have driving pins small enough to split a cam chain
The tool I borrow to split mine was like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cam-Drive-Chain-Splitter-Breaker-Link-Riveter-Motorcycle-NEW-/181116192118?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2b5dc576#ht_3084wt_892
but it's no good for riveting as I have said before
Re: Camchain replacement - Dcock - 01-08-13
(01-08-13, 12:56 PM)Ebme Geek link Wrote: The quad stake anvil there looks too big for doing a cam chain, do they do a smaller one. Also noticed this was called the jumbo chain tool, so does it have driving pins small enough to split a cam chain
The tool I borrow to split mine was like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cam-Drive-Chain-Splitter-Breaker-Link-Riveter-Motorcycle-NEW-/181116192118?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2b5dc576#ht_3084wt_892
but it's no good for riveting as I have said before
what problem did you have using that tool to rivet the cam chain? I was also going to use that to do my cam chain.
Re: Camchain replacement - Dead Eye - 01-08-13
I bought one of those and found it completely useless for dealing with the drive chain, it just wasn't man enough for the task. It was a bit of an impulsive and rushed purchase though, I imagine it would be much better suited to a cam chain
Re: Camchain replacement - His Dudeness - 01-08-13
(01-08-13, 06:03 PM)Dcock link Wrote: what problem did you have using that tool to rivet the cam chain? I was also going to use that to do my cam chain.
There's two types of rivets hollow ones and solid ones. That tool is for hollow rivets only. The cam chain will have a solid link so that tool won't work.
@embe geek
I don't know how big it is. I think there's only one size so maybe it's not suitable.
Re: Camchain replacement - Dead Eye - 02-08-13
Well that explains its useless-ness now ^^
Re: Camchain replacement - garyb - 11-08-13
Replacing the camchain at the moment myself, I have the cams out and just waiting for the new chain to arrive.
I guess the next step will be to split the existing chain, tie the new one on to it, feed it around the crank turning the flywheel, and then join the new one together with the rivet link.
Once thing thats puzzling me though - how do you know when the engine is at TDC on the no.1 cylinder after all this turning of the crank without the cams and before you re-install them?
Surely you don't just re-install the cams without the engine at TDC on no.1
Re: Camchain replacement - Dead Eye - 11-08-13
There is a mark on the pulley behind the generator cover if memory serves
Sure someone will be along with a handy photo soon enough
Re: Camchain replacement - unfazed - 11-08-13
It does not matter on the Fazers as long as the T on the rotor lines up with the mating surface of the crankcases.
This will have pistons 1 and 4 at the TDC and pistons 2 and 3 at BDC,then when you install the cams and time them correctly they will set numbe one cylinder to compression stroke.
Re: Camchain replacement - humbucker88 - 11-08-13
Just make sure the mark on the generator lines up with the crankcase. Also...make sure you're not 180 out, pop a long screwdriver down cylinder 1 to make sure its at the top if you need to check.
Re: Camchain replacement - Deefer666 - 11-08-13
Quote:Bought the endless one, split it and used the split link to rejoin it.
Deefer666, out of curosity, how did you manage to do it for that price? [img alt=:eek]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/shocked.gif[/img] Parts alone would come to close to £200 and add labour to that. You must have a queue wating at your door with prices like that.
I used some excellent imported pattern parts from Germany, this brings the cost of the parts right down and I use German parts because they have TUV so no chance of shite quality ching-chong parts that some aftermarket companies supply in this country. Also I have been working on mainly FZS's for years now so to take an engine out and strip it does not take me half the time that it would take someone else. PLUS when I set my workshop up from day one it was always my intention to work at affordable prices (OK I'll never get rich, but I'll always have work)
Re: Camchain replacement - garyb - 11-08-13
(11-08-13, 06:59 PM)humbucker88 link Wrote: Just make sure the mark on the generator lines up with the crankcase. Also...make sure you're not 180 out, pop a long screwdriver down cylinder 1 to make sure its at the top if you need to check.
Roger that - that's what I was afraid of (being 180 deg out) I will check that no.1 is on the compression stroke and at tdc on the rotor before I connect the cams up.
Cheers for the replies guys!
Re: Camchain replacement - unfazed - 11-08-13
There is no need to check anything with a screwdriver or anything else as I explained with the cams out :wall just line up the T mark on the rotor. You cannot be 180 degrees out on an engine with a firing order of 1243.
Re: Camchain replacement - humbucker88 - 12-08-13
Ye, obviously if the cams are out then the marks just need to be lined up, then put the cams in the correct way up
Re: Camchain replacement - garyb - 13-08-13
Thanks Unfazed & Humbucker - I understand it now :thumbup
I threaded the new chain through last night and installed the rivet link, one slight problem, I seem to have been a bit too enthusiastic with pressing the link plate in place and now the link is very tight :'(
Do I need to remove it and replace it with a new one and try again? whats the best way folks have found to do this part of the job i.e pressing the plate in place. The chain riveter I have (Draper) is no use for this task as it's obviously for a drive chain.
Re: Camchain replacement - unfazed - 13-08-13
a common problem. Carefully push a fine bladed screwdriver in between the links and it should loosen them. Should not require much force.
Re: Camchain replacement - mars696 - 13-08-13
I hope that i dont hijack the thread...
Today i open the valve cover to check the camsaft timing marks, and this is what i saw:
The first is the exhaust cam and the second is the intake.Both are out of alignment but intake is more.... :'(
The camchain tensioner is at the last click i think...but i cant afford a camchain replacement now... :rolleyes
Is there any way to solve this and what have caused this???
Thanks foccers...
Re: Camchain replacement - unfazed - 13-08-13
If that is with the rotor aligned then it demotes some cam chain wear, but it is not to bad and the engine will run fine. Is the engine rattling?
How do you know the tensioner is on its last click did you remove it to check it?