+- Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial (https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb)
+-- Forum: Bikes, Hints'n'Tips (https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/forumdisplay.php?fid=66)
+--- Forum: FZS600 Fazer (https://foc-u.co.uk/mybb/forumdisplay.php?fid=78)
+--- Thread: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod (/showthread.php?tid=60885)
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - davec - 20-12-12
That's good.I will have a look under the seat and see if there is a good mounting point for the relays.I'll run all of the new wiring alongside the existing loom if it seems suitable to do it this way and I'll extent the original main beam wires back along the the original loom under the tank to the relays.If it works it will keep the area around the fairing clear and tidy.After offering the fairing up the other day I realised just how little space there was to mount the relays and the sockets.I bought some 30 and 40 amp relays from VWP so I could use the 30amp relays if I wanted.I'll let you know how it goes if I go ahead with doing it this way.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - davec - 30-12-12
Fairing so far.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - limax2 - 30-12-12
That's a very nice looking bike you have there with a few other useful mods on it 8) .
I see you have gone for mounting at least one relay under the fairing panel rather than under the seat.
Is the new bracket firm enough with only being mounted from one of the frame brackets? I'm not saying it isn't, but I also used the rear frame bracket as a mounting point to give it more rigidity due to the extra overhang.
Wiring looks good. :thumbup .
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - davec - 30-12-12
Thanks Limax. Both relays will be mounted on that bracket under the fairing, once I'd looked at it properly I could see there was going to be enough space .The other relay is wired up I just haven't put it on yet.I'm still waiting on the headlight connectors,they should be here soon hopefully. I've got some of that heat shrink wrap to put around the wires once everything's sorted and cut to length so that will tidy it up under there.The strength of the brackets remains to be seen, the whole thing feels pretty rigid but if it needs more support I will add the extra bracket .I've used locking nuts on the bolts holding the brackets in place which will hopefully stop them from coming loose. As you know somethings may need altering as I go along but they can be sorted as and if they arise.I'll add more pictures as I go.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - His Dudeness - 30-12-12
looks great well done :thumbup
haven't read the whole thread but would it be possible to use the original bulbs and loom in the newer fairing and do away with all the rest of the modifications? would make things a lot easier
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - davec - 30-12-12
Thanks. I've wondered that myself. With the headlight mod both lights are wired with 3 pin.The sidelights would need rewiring as there are 2 of them.But I'm only a novice when it comes to electrics so I've followed a tried and tested route which Limax used, and advised me on, when he did the modification.So I think he could probably answer that question.The 2 relays are used separately one powers the dip and the other the main beam both running off of a wire from the battery whilst the dip makes use of the redundant feed from the main beam switch on the handlebars which is used in the mk1 headlight mod.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - limax2 - 30-12-12
(30-12-12, 08:00 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: would it be possible to use the original bulbs and loom in the newer fairing and do away with all the rest of the modifications? would make things a lot easier
Interesting observation Dude. Must be possible to fit the H1 (dip) bulb in the H4 holder but I don't know what the beam pattern would be like. You would miss a big advantage of the foxeye of being able to have two main beams on together or two dips on together.
Alternatively you could alter the connection on the left headlight so you could still use that for dip beam (but with H4 bulb) and use the existing connection on the right for high beam. Lights would then work as the standard square eye set up. i.e. for dip only left light on, and for high beam right light on (high beam) with left still on dip. You could also do the standard square eye mod and have both dips on together.
Either way you still miss a big advantage of the foxeye of being able to have two main beams on together.
I guess you could just use the one pilot light instead of two.
Not only will Davec end up with better lights but he is fast becoming an expert on the theory and practice of Fazer electrics
.Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - davec - 02-01-13
Better lights,yes,expert on Fazer electrics,ummm,Anyway I have one more question I have just ordered the inline fuse, and I see the fuses have a continuous and a fusing rating,I have gone for the 10 amps continuous, 20 amps fusing is this ok? or should I have gone for the 20 amps continuous, 40 amps fusing?
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - limax2 - 02-01-13
The 10 amp continuous fuse will probably be o.k but will be working at its full rating. There is a brief higher surge when you switch on (or switch from high to low beam) but I don't think that will be enough to blow the fuse. You'll soon find out when you try it. The standard headlight fuse on the bike is 20 amps, but to be on the safe side I would go for 15 amps if the 10 amp doesn't last very long. Also tape a spare fuse somewhere under the seat just in case you need it.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - davec - 02-01-13
Thanks Limax.I assumed a 20 amp fuse was just that. But looking at the VWP site the fuses have 2 ratings and the 20 amp fuse has a 40 amp fusing rating,which I assumed was the point at which it would blow,this seemed quite high to me,so I went for the 10 amps which are fused at 20 amps so I reckon I will get a couple of 15 amps as well as they have a fusing rate of 30 amps and being in the middle might be the best compromise.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - Fazerider - 03-01-13
That's a nice neat job you've done there davec, looks like a really well fettled bike. :thumbup
As Limax says, a 10A fuse is marginal. The initial resistance of a cold 60W 12V filament is only about a tenth of an ohm, so the fuse is in a race with the headlight as to which one lights first. The last thing you want as you gas the bike down a country lane and flick to main beam is to be plunged into darkness instead!
A shorter run of thicker cable is good for getting the power to the bulbs but gives the fuse a harder time as the initial current is much higher, the higher resistance of the old cable run limited that current. The fuse is there to protect the cabling rather than the load, I don't know what wire gauge you've used but judging from the photos it looks beefier than the original so a 20A fuse should be regarded as a minimum.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - davec - 03-01-13
Thanks Fazerrider.The wire is thicker it's 28/0.30, 17.5 amp.So ,I'm going to order a couple more fuses today.I'll get a couple of 15/30amps and a couple of 20/40amp.It was the continuous amp and fusing amp that confused me when I went to order them.I just assumed a 20amp fuse was just that!
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - Fazerider - 03-01-13
Current ratings of cable and fuses are a minefield of confusing information.
The cable rating assumes that it's in a bundle with no cooling and so is extremely conservative, it is actually capable of carrying vastly more than that figure suggests.
As a rough rule-of-thumb fuses will carry their rated current indefinitely, twice their rated current for about a second or ten times their rated current for about 15 milliseconds.
Adding up the estimated resistances for your wiring, connectors, relay contacts and a couple of cold tungsten filaments in parallel gives a total that might be as low as 0.15Ω. That means the initial current as you switch from low to high beam (or vice versa) could be 90 amps! A 10A fuse will cope with that for perhaps 20ms... probably long enough for the bulb filaments to heat up, but the fuse will only survive for a limited number of cycles. A 20A fuse is still more than enough to provide decent protection against shorts but will handle 90A for a tenth of a second.
Unless you have an independently fused circuit supplying another source of light, LED driving lights tucked below the fairing for example, I really wouldn't consider using anything less than a 20A fuse.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - limax2 - 03-01-13
Thanks for that explanation Fazerider :thumbup .
I was hoping someone with a greater depth of knowledge on the subject than me would come along and clarify it. Just what was needed.
I must check what fuse I used on the one I did.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - Fazerider - 04-01-13
I try to avoid going into full-on nerd mode most of the time, but have always had a fear of the lights going out. :lol
That's partly because almost half the riding I do is at night and partly because of a chap called Rex at the motorcycle dealership where I bought spares for my Honda CG125 when I first started riding. Lovely, helpful bloke who was adept at operating the till with his hook. One day he mentioned he'd gambled on getting home after one beam on his bike had failed, unfortunately the remaining filament packed up at an inconvenient moment... and that was why he only had one arm.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - davec - 03-02-13
Almost finished now.All lights working just needs to be tidied up a bit and a right hand side fairing infill.Thanks once again to Limax2 for his help.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - limax2 - 18-02-13
Further proof on what Fazerider posted on fuse size (not that any was needed), I can now report that I had fitted a 15 amp fuse and it has now blown. Fortunately not in the dark :eek .
I have now replaced it with a 20 amp fuse. (I guess that's continuous as it's the only figure given).
Just to make sure there was no short circuit I temporarily fitted an ammeter into the circuit. No short found and as predicted there was a quick jump in amps above the normal when switching on and also when switching from dip to high and vice versa. I can't say what the top figure was as it was just a quick flick of the finger on my old dial type ammeter. The steady reading with the lights on was about 10 to 12 amps, but my gauge might not be very accurate.
You done a nice job there Dave and a very nice clean looking bike. Out of curiosity what are those things on the floor each side of the side stand?
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - davec - 19-02-13
Thanks Limax.Yeah,I've put a 20 amp fuse (continuous) in mine and it seems good,I'll carry a spare with me just in case.I didn't bother with the 15 amp after all.The two brackets are bolted to the floor either side of the side stand and a bar is put through to stop the bike lifting and falling over in the wind,as happened a couple of years ago.It seems works well.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - unfazed - 17-08-13
When I had a 2000 boxeye I did the old green wire from the switch fix which brought on two dims but the main beam still was not great. I picked up a broken headlight from a local breaker open itand remover the right side reflector and other bits . Then opened my own one (carefull use of a heat gun to melt the glue holding it together) and removed the left reflector and replaced it with the right one from the one from the breaker.
A little bit of fiddling and setting up but I finally had two H4s like the Fox Eye and the Fazer 400 and now much better main beams. Took me nearly a full day to do, but was well worth the effort.
I am at present in the process of converting a European specification Fox Eye headlight to a Irish/English specification one by changing the reflectors. This is even easier to do than the box eye. Still trying to get my hands on a broken fox Eye headlight as I one I got had one cracked reflector.
Re: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod - apage16 - 09-10-13
Hey all. First post!
Loving my Fazer and loving this forum even more!
Unfazed, how are the reflectors actually attached to thr headlight unit? I'm thinking of upgrading to projector style lenses andwas hoping it might be easy to take out the old reflectors and manufacture a mounting plate to attach the new lenses and maintain aim adjustment . Think it'll be easy enough?
Thanks in advance!