(06-07-20, 01:52 PM)Bikebud link Wrote: I going to attempt this. Do i need to loosend the fluid reservior cover first?

(07-07-20, 08:08 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: No amount of get around's is going to sort it and it will just get worse, get the system bled by someone who knows what they're doing.

• Pump the lever till its starts to firm up an then loosen & tighten the bleed nipple. Obviously have a clear hose attached to the nipples so you dont get any brake fluid all over the caliper/wheel etc.
  
• Unbolt the calipers one at a time from the forks, then pump out the pistons a fixed amount. Then just loosen the bleed niple enough to allow brake fluid to come out and then push the pistons back into the caliper (making sure you have a clear hose attached to the nipple etc). The idea is if there is air trapped behind the caliper piston, this will force said air out.
  
• Just got another tip from my local yamaha dealer was to place a spanner (thats roughly the same thickness as the brake disc) in the middle of the caliper (between the pistons) and pump the pistons all the way out untill they grip the spanner. and then proceed to bleed the system normally.
  

(07-07-20, 10:49 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: has caused agitation of the fluid by shaking, over pumping or just bad practice, you'll get micro bubbles.

(07-07-20, 10:49 AM)Gnasher link Wrote:

• Just bleed the system as normal but slowly and deliberately, gravity is your friend here, so is a good vacuum bleeder with experience and skill. 
  
• Brakes aren't DIY if you don't know what you're doing, many think they do until they get on a bike with proper bled brakes.
  

• I have one of those, but either I didn't take enough time bleeding the brakes or need to understand exactly how and where I was using it incorrectly.
  
• I assume your referring to ABS-based bracking systems? as non-ABS is DIY imho and should well within the scope of most competent home mechanics.
  

(07-07-20, 01:26 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: [quote author=Gnasher link=topic=26278.msg317519#msg317519 date=1594115374]has caused agitation of the fluid by shaking, over pumping or just bad practice, you'll get micro bubbles.

(07-07-20, 10:49 AM)Gnasher link Wrote:

• Just bleed the system as normal but slowly and deliberately, gravity is your friend here, so is a good vacuum bleeder with experience and skill. 
  
• Brakes aren't DIY if you don't know what you're doing, many think they do until they get on a bike with proper bled brakes.
  

• I have one of those, but either I didn't take enough time bleeding the brakes or need to understand exactly how and where I was using it incorrectly.
  
• I assume your referring to ABS-based bracking systems? as non-ABS is DIY imho and should well within the scope of most competent home mechanics.
  

(25-06-20, 10:13 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: cable-tie the brake lever back to the bar for 2 evenings.

(07-07-20, 01:55 PM)Gnasher link Wrote: If your brakes are spongy after they've been worked on by a professional who you've paid, take the bike back and give him/them an opportunity to correct the work.  If they refuse demand you money back, don't go trying to sort it yourself.

(07-07-20, 02:09 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: As Ive mentioned, been there done that. And in the end, there was no choice - I had to do it myself.

(07-07-20, 02:59 PM)Gnasher link Wrote: I don't understand, if you paid for someone to bleed you brakes and they were spongy, why was there no choice?

(07-07-20, 10:23 PM)b1k3rdude link Wrote: [quote author=Gnasher link=topic=26278.msg317529#msg317529 date=1594130378]I don't understand, if you paid for someone to bleed you brakes and they were spongy, why was there no choice?

(08-07-20, 08:54 AM)Gnasher link Wrote:

• What I find very puzzling, is you went somewhere else and they did they exactly the same.  It's a matter for you mate but something is very wrong here, one getting it wrong but two?  Chances are there's something else at fault here.  I would in all seriousness suggest you get your system properly inspected either you've been extremely unlucky or there's another issue,
  
• spongy brakes will not correct themselves and will only get worse over time, depending on how you ride and the way ABS works, it can speed up the process.   
  
• What you've not said is, were they spongy before the bike went in for whatever it went in for, service I assume. Or did they came out spongy after they'd worked on it?  Brake bleeding/fluid change isn't a annual task just inspection, on a GSF it's replace every 24mths, is the fluid past 24mths?
  
• Personally if that was my bike it would have gone back within minutes of riding the bike and I'd have insisted they were re-bled, as the bike was given back to you in an unsafe manner.
  

• Different bikes, different shops and a few years apart.
  
• Agreed, hence using the cable-tie method.
  
• On the 1200 no, its was a complete service of the calipers. And on the 1250 its braided hose kit front and back. So in both instances the calipers would have been removed etc.
  
• The brakes in both instances were save enough to ride home, as in I was getting enough lever travel and braking power/perf.
  

(22-06-20, 07:17 PM)Bikebud link Wrote: I bought a 2012 FZ1 S ABS a few weeks ago. I'm loving the bike, but not very impressed with the brakes.

(21-07-20, 08:54 AM)Bikebud link Wrote: I've done the cable tie method and it has certainly made an improvement to the brakes. I pumped and tied the lever for about 10 hours, and noticed that it got a bit firmer, and did it again for about 48 hrs, and the lever is much firmer now, I got a more instant response and better feel, and the lever doesn't pull all the way in.

It seems the mechanic who serviced the bike before i bought it, did a terrible job bleeding it.