(08-05-13, 09:45 AM)markaboot link Wrote: [quote author=His Dudeness link=topic=7375.msg74138#msg74138 date=1367849276]
stick a screwdriver on the starter clutch cover and have a listen. they can rattle

(08-05-13, 06:22 PM)markaboot link Wrote: [quote author=Gnasher link=topic=7375.msg74625#msg74625 date=1368026045]
[quote author=markaboot link=topic=7375.msg73968#msg73968 date=1367781248]
the noise is low down or central, tbh its really hard to pin point its location or even which side. i'll try the screwdriver to the ear trick tomorrow.

(09-05-13, 01:45 PM)unfazed link Wrote: Timing would want to be off by a good few teeth before it would bring compression down to 90psi and the  valves would be hitting pistons by then.
When I replaced my chain, the old one was one 1 1/2 length longer than the replacement.
I check the valve clearance for a friend last year and discoverd whoever replace the chain on his bike before he bought it had the timing on the exhaust cam out by one tooh and the bike appeared to be running fine.  I  lifted the cams and reset the timing to the correct position and put it all back together he took it for a spin and said he found absolutel no difference in the performance.
All the issues you have described point to the water pump, but you appear to have ruled that out. Never heard of cam chain or tensioner on a fazer rattling when hot and quite when cold, it has always been the oppisite. For out of balance to cause that kind of sound it would not even run.
Other possibilites are worn clutch drum, starter clutch as some else has mentioned cam shaft end float or a cracked shim or valve lifter, list is endless.
It is really now a process of elimination.

(09-05-13, 08:52 PM)unfazed link Wrote: A bit of pitting on the shaft, but would not appear to be enough to cause the rattle you have. However the clearance on the impleller to casing is very small and the least bit of wear could cause a rattle as the impeller hits the casing especially under load, but there does not appear to be any scratch marks on the impeller.
Have you ridden the bike with fresh coolant, you may find the rattle is gone since the lower viscosity of the new coolant may not put the pump under as much pressure.
When you put it back together and if the rattle is still there use to screw driver trick to listen to the pump.
The bigest problem with the screwdriver trick is how to filter out the normal sounds from the abnormal sounds.

(13-05-13, 10:30 AM)darrsi link Wrote: Don't know if it's been asked before but what oil are you using, out of curiosity?

(05-05-13, 02:29 PM)markaboot link Wrote: so earlier today i decided i would manually advance the tensioner by one click. got the carbs off again, this time without undoing everything as haynes suggests and just lifting them up out the way.

(29-03-14, 08:35 PM)reddave101 link Wrote: Had exactly the same problem which was doing my head in. I ended up stripping the engine completely to no conclusion..BUT it is now cured.. Very simple after all that.. Changed oil, filter to high grade 10/40 and made a oil filler breather. The only reason I came to this check was from time to time I noticed the bike had more torque than before and the clutch would become stiff and heavy. So after no end of research and came to my own conclusions I ended up thinking there may possibly be too much air building up in the crankcase and causing loads of torque to release the air pressure because after a short blast the torque would slacken off and would get a rattle..


Now just to point out my fazer 600 98 model has a few performance upgrades which may not of helped with mine but after I've made a oil breather to replace the filler cap, blocked off the air inlet to the air box and rerouted the crankcase breather pipe, all rattling has gone and even the fuel economy is better, and throttle response is 100% better. Hope that gives you some more insight into a cure for you..