Oil and filter change - Printable Version

Oil and filter change - Printable Version

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+--- Thread: Oil and filter change (/showthread.php?tid=57923)

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Re: Oil and filter change - CRH - 21-05-12

hi, akula, think i got your twin? my fazers 02 with 6500 miles too!! ive recently changed my oil /filter using castrol gtx 15.40w reason for going to a slightly heavier oil seems to make my gearchange alot smoother?? i use a k&n oil filter too, and change that every second oil change!! clive.

Re: Oil and filter change - Dead Eye - 21-05-12

Pretty sure some more info in another oil thread that will outline your answer. As long as it is the correct spec and doesn't include certain additives (sorry, I don't remember them) then it should be ok. HOWEVER

BE WARNED THAT A LOT OF CAR OILS USE ADDITIVES WHICH WILL DESTROY THE CLUTCH ON A BIKE!

Make sure you check the Oil you have before you do anything. If you aren't sure, I wouldn't recommend risking it.

Re: Oil and filter change - Buzz - 22-05-12

Do you really need the proper wrench tool to get the oil filter off? I've read you can just hammer a screwdriver through and unscrew it that way.

For installation of the new one I've heard you only need it hand tight anyways...manual says 17Nm but is that "hand tight"

Halfords 5L for £27 seems to get some decent reviews.

Re: Oil and filter change - JZS 600 - 22-05-12

I bought a proper tool for the oil filter removal after getting fed up with hot, spurting oil flying round the place when the screwdriver went in.

Also, if you tear the filter when taking it off, world of woes!

Hand tight is correct for the new filter

Re: Oil and filter change - Dead Eye - 22-05-12

I agree with JZS 600

Last time I did mine I use the hammer and screw driver trick... end result was oil EVERYWHERE. Next time im definitely getting myself a chain remover thing...

Re: Oil and filter change - DryRob - 22-05-12

I use one of these

Re: Oil and filter change - Gaz73 - 22-05-12

I use Castrol Power 1 Racing Oil and Champion Oil Filter........... job done Wink

Re: Oil and filter change - Fazer Jake - 22-05-12

(22-05-12, 12:10 PM)Gaz73 link Wrote: I use Castrol Power 1 Racing Oil and Champion Oil Filter........... job done

Thought u were only supposed to run fazers on semi syn? :\

Re: Oil and filter change - Gaz73 - 22-05-12

(22-05-12, 12:38 PM)Fazer Jake link Wrote: [quote author=Gaz73 link=topic=2271.msg24992#msg24992 date=1337685044]
I use Castrol Power 1 Racing Oil and Champion Oil Filter........... job done

Thought u were only supposed to run fazers on semi syn? :\
[/quote]

Ahem, my mistake, omit the 'racing' I use Castrol Power 1 4T in the Fazer and Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T in the scooter Wink

Re: Oil and filter change - jason1 - 22-05-12

Done the screwdriver and hammer trick(messy shit) , all i use know is a standard oil filter chain. Works great on bike and car .

Re: Oil and filter change - Slaninar - 22-05-12

(22-05-12, 12:38 PM)Fazer Jake link Wrote: Thought u were only supposed to run fazers on semi syn? :\

They work just fine on full synth.

KN - good.

Motul 7100, or 5100 if you want semi synth, cheaper one.

Re: Oil and filter change - Motorbreath - 22-05-12

The K&N oil filter comes with an attached nut.
[Image: KN-147.jpg]

Re: Oil and filter change - Dave48 - 22-05-12

Any brand of bike oil that meets the spec. I have used Silkolene,Yamalube,Morris,Shell. Always semi-syn & 10W-40 for our climate.Any make of filter like HiFlo,Champion even Yamaha at a pinch(£!!). Buy an oil filter remover tool-about £7. Theres just enough room for the socket extension between the downpipes. Always put a smidgin of fresh oil on seal of new filter. Change drain plug washer if looking worn out-the washer that is! Smile

Re: Oil and filter change - Jbizzle - 12-04-16

Hi Guys,

I have some [color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil left over from my car service, that I am hoping i can use for my bike. I have been told the Haynes manual states my FZS 600 (2003) needs 10W-40 oil. [/color]
[color=rgb(34, 34, 34)][/size][/color]
[/size]Being "5W" means the oil is designed to work at lower temperatures than the recommended "10W", does anyone know if this will affect the viscosity at higher temperatures? And therefore damage/wear my engine?

Thanks![size=12px]

Re: Oil and filter change - darrsi - 12-04-16

Personally I would stick with 10w/40 semi synthetic.

Re: Oil and filter change - jan.van.gent - 12-04-16

(12-04-16, 09:27 AM)Jbizzle link Wrote: Hi Guys,

I have some [color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil left over from my car service, that I am hoping i can use for my bike. I have been told the Haynes manual states my FZS 600 (2003) needs 10W-40 oil. [/color]
[color=rgb(34, 34, 34)][/size][/color]
[/size]Being "5W" means the oil is designed to work at lower temperatures than the recommended "10W", does anyone know if this will affect the viscosity at higher temperatures? And therefore damage/wear my engine?

Thanks![size=12px]

don't ever use car oil in a motorcycle with wet clutch! It will make the clutch slip.

I use Procycle 10W40 semi-synthetic.
https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/procycle-4t-engine-oil-semi-synthetic-10w-40-1-litre/10038450?list=164995864
In bottles of 4 liter, it's about 4.5€/liter, or thus for you guys 3.59 pound/liter
The quality is Ok of this oil. I used it in all my bikes so far, never troubles. Also read a few good reviews about it.

Re: Oil and filter change - Dave48 - 12-04-16

Its the "lifeblood" of the engine so if Yamaha say 10W40 semi-synthetic thats what to use. Some car oils contain friction modifiers which work fine in car engines with their dry clutches & separate gearbox oil, but can play havoc in wet clutch(motorcycle) engines. Not worth the risk for the sake of a few quid.

Re: Oil and filter change - topgun44 - 12-04-16

car oil change it every 3000 miles do it with all off me bikes in last 27 years and none gone bang yet

Re: Oil and filter change - Bretty - 12-04-16

On a side note (crikey someone's dug out an old thread! :eek well in fairness everyone complains if you don't use the search function Smile

)...

Anyway as I was saying, talking about the clutch slipping, last time I rebuild my engine I used a 50/50 mix of molybdenum grease and engine oil on all the cam holders. This has obviously now gone through the engine and now my clutch slips at max torque. I only used a fine coating but obviously even a bit will cause a problem!

When people say the friction modifiers will 'kill' the clutch, can it be 'washed' off? Or is my clutch now ruined? I have a spare clutch, but could I not just give the old plates the washing up liquid or degreaser treatment, re-oil and refit?

Cheers!

Brett

Re: Oil and filter change - Bimbam - 12-04-16

Castrol Power1 4T 10W-40. Original Yamaha oil-filter. Chance once a year or maksimum 8.000 km.