Hi all - this is going to take some explaining so please bear with me.

A mate's clutch cable snapped on his FZ6 a couple of weeks ago and he asked me to help replace it as he doesn't have the tools or know-how/confidence to strip the bike down to route a new cable. Went over to his, took the airbox off, replaced the cable and it didn't work - there was very little 'pull' on the clutch lever and it wouldn't return. At first I thought the cable was too long but I then started playing with the pull lever on top of the pull lever shaft. I was able to move the pull lever by hand which I though was odd as you're pulling against the compression springs so should be almost impossible to move by hand - I've since tried on a few bikes and can't move the pull lever. I figured the tension in the pull lever was only from the pull lever spring and not the compression springs. Putting the bike in gear and rotating the pull lever didn't disengage the drive so I figured that something had broken in the clutch - possibly sheared pull rod or broken teeth on the pull lever shaft.

Stripping the clutch everything looks ok. The pull rod and pull lever shaft look fine and the teeth on both don't look worn or chipped. The only thing I found odd (compared with other bikes I've worked on) is that the pull rod has a lot of free play within the bearing and pressure plate although nothing seems broken and I think this is how it's supposed to be. The pull rod can move around (like a spoon in a cup) but also can move from being tight against the pressure plate or move back 'into' the clutch by about 1/2 cm, maybe a bit more. So, when I put everything back together I can't get the pull rod to stay tight against the compression plate so while it engages with the pull lever shaft the pull rod won't actually move far enough to decompress the pressure plate - I seem to push the pull rod back into the clutch as I site the clutch cover. I can see the pull rod moving as I operate the pull lever (by hand) by looking through the oil filler hole but suspect that the movement is mostly just 'free play'. As a result the clutch doesn't operate.

I'm back over my mate's in a couple of days time armed with a Haynes manual and the knowledge to align the punch marks on the pull lever and clutch cover and hope to make some progress but I have a couple of questions:

1. Could the cable snap have caused the pull rod to position itself in such a way that it wouldn't activate the clutch?
   
2. Should the pull rod sit tight against the inside of the pressure plate? Or tight inside the bearing?
   
3. If yes how do I stop it moving back into the clutch as I try to feed the pull rod into the clutch cover and engage with the splines on the pull lever shaft? (I have to use coathanger to hook the pull rod so that it locates in the recess of the clutch cover)
   

Hi all. Just joined to pick your collective brains about Fazer clutches!

ANYONE LOOKING FOR A NEW SCREEN. used once, tried it out on Sunday but all round I think ill stick to my Powerbronze D/B. These are on ebay for £60 + £4 p+p....Im looking for £40 including p+p    a bargain.

Yep Deks getting rid !! and with his OCD this bike is minta than mint, ive seen it .

WOW
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,12049.0.html

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x10/D...125322.jpg

Hi all,
Planning a first oil change at the weekend and was wondering what grade and brand is favourite? I've had a couple of thumpers over the last few years and always used Motul 10/40 but not sure if any good for my Fazer thou. Also, fully or semi synth?

Cheers!

So with the good weather at the weekend, my mrs has found her rest bike trousers no longer fit.


Size 18r but as these mean squat the measurements are 38-40" waist and 31.5" inside leg.


Truth be told they are women's but you could best describe them as unisex as they are just straight leg fit.


Comes with adjustable armour in the knees and Kevlar reinforcing around your crucials (hips knees etc.) I think there is space for hip armour.


Only been worn a handful of times, with a small oil stain at the bottom of one leg but hardly noticeable.


Open to sensible offers but hoping between £30-40 to be donated to new trousers!

I've put a few pics up of the Scorpion & headers at the end of this post.














2006 FZ1-s
Red
1 owner
38200 miles
Taxed until March 2015
Mot until April 2015
Excellent condition
A genuine 150 rwhp
Meticuously maintained & recently serviced at 38k.
Valve clearances checked & adjusted at 24k & 34k.
Wheels & steering head bearings renewed at 34k
Coil on plugs replaced at 34k
Plugs replaced with Iridium at 34k
Fork oil replaced at 30k
Tyres: BT023's. Front is new & rear has 8mm
New wavy discs front & rear
New EBC HH pads front & rear

Mod list:
Performance:
Powercommander 3 including custom map
Ignition module including rev extend
Dna performance airfilter
Modified airbox
FCE
Akrapovic full system
Secondary butterflies removed
Exup eliminator chip
Quickshifter
New Renthal gold chain & Afam/Renthal sprockets
Rizoma rearsets
Hyperpro reactive steering damper
R1 triple adjustable rear shock
Venhill braided hoses

Other:
Speedohealer
Rizoma chainguard
Rizoma sprocket cover
R&G radiator guard
Evotech crash mushrooms
Tony Archer modified seats (for comfort)
Copperdawg speed screen
Renthal bars
Pazzo levers
LED indicators
Scottoiler
Powdercoated wheels, stands, rear pegs & various brackets
Numerous new titanium & stainless steel fastenings

I could, if there is no takers in it as a fully modded package, swap some of the more expensive items for oem & reduce the price accordingly.

As it stands, the mods alone cost over £3k.

If you need to know anything or are interested in it in a lesser trim send me a PM but please don't ask about availability of individual items yet as the person buying it will have 1st choice of all the mods & accessories.

Oh yeah, why am I selling? I'm getting a s1000r sport.

Cheers

Dek





http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x10/D...xhaust.jpg


Pic showing Scorpion endcan

Hi guys if any1 thinking of getting the r6 rear shock conversion. DO IT had mine done yesterday by the man luke this bloke nos his stuff, really is like riding a new bike no more wollowing  in to corners  thanks luke

Just wondering if anyone has used vegetable oil to lube their chain?? I normally used engine oil but i run out last week so i thought i would give it a try! just been over a week now & normally with engine oil it would of sounded as if it was dry by now but with the veggie oil it still feels smooth & sounds really quiet. Am i risking my chain because its not a proper oil???


What are your thoughts guy's??


Ray