Author Topic: Where has me nut post gone then !! (Read 14290 times)

Dead Eye · « **Reply #25 on:** 18 September 2013, 05:02:27 pm »

Mine is up at 90Nm... just for the sake of posting :P

Andy FZS · « **Reply #26 on:** 18 September 2013, 05:26:34 pm »

I know it's not a fazer but my lads yzf750 1995 just stripped it nut the other day, so I would suspect a lot if not all yamaha 9mm nuts are suspect.
Andy

fazersharp · « **Reply #27 on:** 18 September 2013, 06:24:55 pm »

Perhaps I should start a newthread--- ive just looked at my torque wrench and it only goes up to 60nm
So
Recomend me a torque wrench please

Dead Eye · « **Reply #28 on:** 18 September 2013, 06:30:34 pm »

Draper 1/2" Torque Wrench - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-30357-Micrometer-Adjustment-Torque/dp/B0001K9S52/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1379525345&sr=8-3&keywords=draper+torque+wrench

Have had two of these (first one died in a garage fire) and two Silverline 1/2" ones as well - the first Silverline sheared the head off but was replaced under warranty. Most heavy duty tools I tend to go for a good name and that to me is Draper

fazersharp · « **Reply #29 on:** 18 September 2013, 06:31:16 pm »

Quote from: nick crisp on 18 September 2013, 02:08:18 pm

Have you tried contacting Yamaha UK for an answer (can't remember if you did or not)? Might be worth it, if they're willing to give an open opinion.

01932 358000 (switchboard - ask for technical: wow, just remembered that no. (checked it just in case) off the top of my head from last using it about 5 years ago!)

It was my local yamaha garage
I rang my local yam dealer and as expect (from reading this forum) they knew nothing about it. Thanks to you guys I was armed with the service note 2005-12a which the chap on the phone went and got and then said he would ring Yamaha and call me back. He did and gave Yamaha my reg number and they came back to him and said that my bike and quoted my chassis number and engine number I guess from the reg is not an affected model.
So no I have not done so directly but thanks for the number I will

fazersharp · « **Reply #30 on:** 18 September 2013, 06:35:18 pm »

Thanks dead eye I will look into that one
My current one is a halfords professional which I have had for about 12 years
Any others anyone ?

Dead Eye · « **Reply #31 on:** 18 September 2013, 09:36:15 pm »

Halfords Advanced kit is usually pretty damn good - is it a 3/8" drive? That would explain the max of 60Nm

I have a 1/4" drive one as well to fill in the gaps between 5Nm and 30Nm that my 1/2" Draper won't cover

fazersharp · « **Reply #32 on:** 18 September 2013, 10:18:36 pm »

yup 3/8 8-60nm
The halfords 40-200 is £74 ouch

TonyW · « **Reply #33 on:** 18 September 2013, 10:40:49 pm »

Nut job done.

The original nut wasn't loose but wasn't as tight as I was expecting. I took the time to measure the shaft thread, it was 17.9mm so chucked on some bearing retainer and the new nut went on at 80Nm.

Dead Eye · « **Reply #34 on:** 19 September 2013, 12:00:23 am »

Quote from: fazersharp on 18 September 2013, 10:18:36 pm

yup 3/8 8-60nm
The halfords 40-200 is £74 ouch

Yeah, good quality, but extremely expensive as well :P

I think the Draper one I linked is about £30?

fazersharp · « **Reply #35 on:** 19 September 2013, 12:13:27 am »

Apart from the sprok nut and the rear wheel to take drive chain slack (i think 114nm ) what else am I going to need over 60 nm for. So £75 is a lot for those 2 jobs, but is there any poing in paying low price for such an item when the whole point is to be spot on with the torque, I do fancy the draper one or teng from screwfix which is inbetween the two

Dead Eye · « **Reply #36 on:** 19 September 2013, 09:23:38 am »

I agree, £74 is a lot of money and I certainly wouldn't buy it. However, they do come in handy as you probably know from your 3/8" one

Buzz · « **Reply #37 on:** 19 September 2013, 09:55:15 am »

Can get the same wrench for 25 notes on Ebay, I'm deffo getting one.

EDIT: - Just seen that the Bandit recommended settings for the front sprocket is 115!

EDIT2: - I've just bought one.

Ebme Geek · « **Reply #38 on:** 19 September 2013, 11:00:58 am »

I have the Draper one, and am happy with it

fazersharp · « **Reply #39 on:** 20 September 2013, 08:33:57 am »

Been looking at torques and there are only 3 places I am ever going to go over my 60nm so think I will be going for a olwer cost one, thinking if they are not as acurate then no matter as anything 80 90 120nm aint ognna break if its a bit tighter, - unlike somthing that needs to be 20nm.
So ive got my new nut and ys it has an extra 3 threads but look at my picture as I have hardly any threads left showing and what is there tapers so wont be doing anything so by a bigger nut Im not gaining anything.

Quote from: TonyW on 18 September 2013, 10:40:49 pm

Nut job done. The original nut wasn't loose but wasn't as tight as I was expecting. I took the time to measure the shaft thread, it was 17.9mm so chucked on some bearing retainer and the new nut went on at 80Nm.

Not measured my shaft yet but tony w says his 98 is 17.9, could that be the reason 98s are ok as we 98s have thicker shafts than everyone else
Gonna start a new thread
"How thick is your shaft"

noggythenog · « **Reply #40 on:** 20 September 2013, 10:49:20 am »

If the shaft was thicker on the 98's then wouldnt it require a different nut altogether with a different part number???

TonyW · « **Reply #41 on:** 20 September 2013, 11:19:47 am »

Its more to do with the tolerances of the nut /shaft interface. I didn't measure the thread pitch but I guess its M18x1.25 (fine thread) which means the shaft size should be between 17.76mm and 17.97mm this variation allows for worn tools or machinery when cutting the thread. Outside of this the thread SHOULD fail quality inspection.
The nut thread Should be 16.65mm to 16.91mm internal diameter. Again I didn't measure mine but I'm guessing that the mod nuts are cut to nearer the 16.65mm to give better overlap on the shaft thread. (The troughs of the nut thread should be 18-18.3mm)
In this case it looks like the shafts have been cut to the wrong diameter. However it appears that Yamaha feel that with the thicker nut there is enough surface area in contact to keep the nut tight using bearing retainer even if the shaft is down to 17.5mm (bearing retainer is similar to threadlock but has better gap filling properties).
I think that explains it clearly, if not I'll draw a picture to make it easier to understand

fazersharp · « **Reply #42 on:** 20 September 2013, 06:46:14 pm »

Pictures please !!
Do we (tony w ) have any theorys as to why yamaha are saying 98s are ok and do not need the nut mod. Are you measuring the shaft including the tops of the thread. Someone on here measured theirs to be 17.5, could it be that the first bikes off the factory line sold like hot cakes and they said oh crap we are gonna need a shed load of parts, which came from extra- different suppliers. So all the 98s are good and some other 99s onwards are not, depending on who supplied the blank shaft that yamaha then cut the thread as if it were a thicker shaft meaning that the threads were not deep enough. And the new nut as you say is cut to fit a 17.5 shaft and it that that is the inportant mod and not the fact that it is 12mm instead of 9mm as the extra 3 mm does not do anything as it sits over the tapered end of the shaft anway. Yam spec loctite 620 which is a very strong thread loc http://www.henkel.co.uk/fullproduct-list-loctite-4995.htm?countryCode=uke&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=1000000IZEY

TonyW · « **Reply #43 on:** 21 September 2013, 01:20:54 am »

Measure at the tips of the thread to get the male thread diameter. Theory: This is simply a quality control balls up. I don't know what manufacturing process Yamaha uses but probably a CNC lathe is used to cut the shaft thread. At some point either a wrong number was progammed in or something else changed. Something as simple as the cutting bit manufacturer changed the overall length of the tool. Possibly they changed the machine used for making the shafts to one with a faster work rate or one the could do multiple operations like milling the splines then cutting the thread. Yamaha obviously know what happened and when but they're unlikely to tell us. I am now curious to know what the internal diameter of the kit nut is if anyone has one. I'll measure the original nut tomorrow when I get home.

darrsi · « **Reply #44 on:** 21 September 2013, 04:51:07 am »

Quote from: TonyW on 21 September 2013, 01:20:54 am

Measure at the tips of the thread to get the male thread diameter. Theory: This is simply a quality control balls up. I don't know what manufacturing process Yamaha uses but probably a CNC lathe is used to cut the shaft thread. At some point either a wrong number was progammed in or something else changed. Something as simple as the cutting bit manufacturer changed the overall length of the tool. Possibly they changed the machine used for making the shafts to one with a faster work rate or one the could do multiple operations like milling the splines then cutting the thread. Yamaha obviously know what happened and when but they're unlikely to tell us. I am now curious to know what the internal diameter of the kit nut is?

fazersharp · « **Reply #45 on:** 21 September 2013, 11:37:49 am »

I think that yam do know when it happend thats why they are saying 98s are good
Ive got a new un fitted nut . But on the vernier gauge choice. what do you think of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-vernier-calliper/38291 or if I can buy cheeper is that just a waste of time as they wont be acurate

CRH · « **Reply #46 on:** 21 September 2013, 11:43:59 am »

Quote from: fazersharp on 21 September 2013, 11:37:49 am

I think that yam do know when it happend thats why they are saying 98s are good
Ive got a new un fitted nut . But on vernier gauge. what do you thing of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-vernier-calliper/38291 or if I can buy cheeper is that just a waste of time as they wont be acurate

....just bt identical to mine!..think i paid £20 from machine mart last year they should be fine?

TonyW · « **Reply #47 on:** 21 September 2013, 07:01:21 pm »

Same as mine as well.

limax2 · « **Reply #48 on:** 21 September 2013, 08:05:03 pm »

This drawing I did a long time ago shows the extra length of thread engaged with the 12mm nut. (Under "Articles" at top of page there is a category for the FZS600 and under that is a lot of the past info from this site about the nut problem).