Got Committed

[His Dudeness]

Hey mate. Do you know what brand cam chain you used?

[Ebme Geek]

Sorry for the slow response, just looked at Emails and saw you had posted here
 
I used a DID chain and rivet link which I got from Wemoto, it came as an endless one, so I split it and then used the new link.
But just checking I see they are only listing the Tourmax option now. 
Don't know who Tourmax are or if they are any good ??
 
The other site I looked at was AJ Sutton
   http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/partImage.asp?GPN=945914713000&uid=0
 
Seems a good price for the yam one, but it is endless and no joining link option, I find it strange they offer two alternatives, endless & open, and more expensive
 
Steve

[His Dudeness]

Thanks for the info. I've been looking for a DID one but I can't seem to find one. Wemoto seem to only have ID or tourmax ones for the fazer. ID might be the same but I'm not sure. I tried the aj site but didn't hear back from them yet. Another site had them advertised but when I made the order he said the listing was wrong and took it down. I emailed DID directly but haven't heard back oh and theres none on  fleebay. I can't see them anywhere else. I didn't think getting a chain would be so much hassle

[Dead Eye]

Out of interest, why does it -have- to be a DID chain?

[His Dudeness]

Out of interest, why does it -have- to be a DID chain?

Well it's a rather important part so I'd like to go for a brand that I've used before and trust.

[Dead Eye]

That's fair enough - wasn't entirely sure if it was necessary to have a DID due to some sort of mechanical thing I hadn't read yet :P Same sort of situation as choosing a drive chain

[Dcock]

Hi, i'm about to try and fit a new cam chain. I was wondering if it's possible to thread the new cam chain with the cams still on. Also how did you attach the old chain to the new chain with copper wire?

[Ebme Geek]

Hi Dcock
 
It would be virtually impossible to keep the cams in sync with the crank if you rotate the crank, hence risk your valves. However I was left with the impression that with tensioner and front chain guide removed or at least lifted it may be possible to sag and walk - sag and walk the chain around the crank sprocket if you get what I mean. If you try this put the engine at TDC first so you can see nothing moves. I changed some shims while I was there, so made no odds to me.
 
Cams out and back in is easy enough, just MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHICH CAM CAP IS WHICH as they are machined on the head and must be in original locations, and dont forget to put engine at top dead centre before you put them back in. 
 
I used a thickness of copper wire that would go through the holes twice, but a thicker one once would be fine. I used a couple of the inner plates that came out from the removed link to keep the spacing right, twisted the ends together and laid them flat to the side of the chain.
 
My nipper kept light tension on the old coming out and the new going in so it did not sag into a mess at the bottom of the tunnel, and I turned the engine over with a socket, fed through very easy no problem. Then tied ends up and got loads of rags around so nothing could get dropped down there.  Using a punch when doing the riveting really gives a lot more control than just two hammers.
Hope that goes towards helping   
 
Steve

[Ebme Geek]

Maybe I can make that clearer about the copper wire,
 
I threaded it through the hole at the end of the chain with the inner plates in place.
Then with the same piece through the other end of the chain attaching the chain onto the other end of the link plates.
Got most of the slack out of the wire then passed it around a second time before twisting the ends together.