R6 Shock Shock !

[pilgrim]

Had mine on for about 18 months now, and although it is a vast improvement over standard, I've always thought it could be a bit better if I fettled it a bit more. I'm currently running the standard settings of 15 clicks out (out of 20) for rebound, 3 full turns out (out of 4) on the high speed compression damping nut and 16 clicks out (out of 20) on the low speed comression damping screw.
After reading the thread about the S1000 shock conversion, I had a look at the R6 owners manual to see what the standard settings were, and this caught my eye:
NOTE
Although the total number of clicks or turns of a damping force adjusting mechanism may not exactly match the specifications listed due to small differences in production,the actual number of clicks or turns always represents the entire adjustment range. To obtain a precise adjustment, it would be advisable to check the number of clicks or turns of each damping force adjusting mechanism and to modify the specifications as necessary.
So I decided to check mine, just to see if they might be out. I dialled everything all the way in, the out again and this is what i found:
High speed comp nut: 4 and a quarter turns to fully out. ( close enough )
Low speed comp screw: 35 clicks to fully out
Rebound screw: 28 clicks to fully out
So, taking into account what the note above says, and that the standard settings are all technically 3/4 of the way through the range, I've made some adjustments
High speed comp left at 3 turns out
Low speed comp now set at 25 clicks out ( of 35 )
Rebound set at 21 clicks out ( out of 28 )
A bounce test has it feeling softer already, but cant test ride it until tomorrow on my 6 mile round trip to work.
Who knows, I might have just arsed it up completely, but its easy enough to put it back to where it was. Might have to get around to fettling it properly now anyway  
Thoughts, anyone? Has this been discussed before and I've missed it? Or was it something that everyone knew anyway, except me?
 

[devilsyam]

as you can guess i have extensivily fiddled with this to the point of madness one factor you have missed when comparing to oe stock settings is the shock in the fazer is different in that it's shorter and corrected by altering the bone length
so stock settings dont really apply given the above and it's a totally different bike
by all means experiment i cant set for your gut feeling on how your bike works as to many factors
i can only work with rough guide to be in the ball pack for most riders given the weight and ride style
everytime someone comes up with a new setting i give it a go some bad some good but i always seem to go back to what i set mine up for me
I never claimed this was a ohlins or any top of the range solution more over a option that was cheaper by far over the cheapest aftermarket shock
having said that when i did have a ohlins i was for ever buggering around with the settings on that to
luke

[pilgrim]

Fair point matey, and I'm still chuffed to bits with your brilliant idea Not trying to piss on your parade or anything,
just shocked ( pardon the pun ) at how far away the amount of adjustment is from what Yamaha have said it is.
Like you said, different bikes, riding styles etc, and I might have just totally goosed it, just thought it might be worth a twiddle just in case. I mean, 35 clicks when theres only supposed to be 20!! Blood nora!
Anyway, keep up the good work, youre a star pal!

[devilsyam]

no i diddnt take it as a criticism more over a point on the difference in the two bikes and the fazer fitment

just dont go to mad or you'll be bouncing like the oe unit and visiting the undergrowth

[pilgrim]

Jesus H Christ! Dont want to be doing that, cant ride a pogo stick
Anyway, its only a slow trundle to work, mostly 30mph roads, but after tomorrow I wont be able to do any more indepth testing for an unspecified number of days. Having the big toenail on my right foot removed forever on Thusday ( ingrowing like an upside down Nike Swoosh, 20 years ) so  no chance of getting bike boots on for a while. 

[Falcon 269]

What you've discovered isn't new or that surprising.   The stock Gen 1 shock has way more clicks than the actual effective range of adjustment, too.

In simple terms, the adjuster is a tapered screw controlling the size of one of the holes in the relevant damping circuit.  The further out the screw, the more oil can flow through the hole.  However, there's a point at which winding the adjuster out further makes no actual difference because the needle is already clear of the hole.   This is the reason why all damping adjustments should be made as turns/clicks out from the max/fully in position.  

Trying to set the damping up in the way you're trying right now - ie, a percentage of available clicks based on what the manual recommends but adjusted for your discovery - isn't correct.  There's every chance that you've set the damping to minimum as a result.

FWIW, I suggest you go back to the baseline settings you had previously and experiment a few clicks either way on those.

[pitternator]

as a twiddler for many many years I will vouch for all that has been said, plus myown conclusion is that there is no such thing as  a perfect set up. Its like an ever moving goalpost. Much depends on so many variables- the time of year ( cold/hot) wet / dry , fast riding / slow riding. Let alone the mood of the rider....All have " ideal" settings.
As such I found a sort of compromise setting which does most but not all of what I want my suspension to do.AND thats a setting which suits me , on Ktech suspension, so its irrelevant to copy it....you have to find your own best setting. Start with getting the sag right for the rider weight , then start on damping. Increments on good suspension will make a difference( though take into account falcons comments ), its an empirical methodical work.
 

[pilgrim]

Ok, can see where you are all coming from. Its just that the note in the manual ( which incidentaly is also in the Fazer thou manual) says that the actual number of clicks or turns always represents the entire adjustment range. This would seem to imply that, for example, on the low speed comp screw, 1 click is max and 35 (on mine anyway!) is minimum.
It does seem a bit odd that there are that many turns, and I did wonder if it was like Mike says, beyond a certain point its just turning for turnings sake.
Anyway, on the settings its on now, my ride to work was ok, and it wasnt like a zeberdee, but did feel softer and more compliant. Unfortunately I cant do any more testing at the moment cos I'm sitting here with no big toe nail on my right foot, the anesthetic is wearing off, and its throbbing like a cartoon thumb/hammer incident.
Bugger!
Still, when I'm back on the road, might turn them all the way down just see what happens
Cheers
 
Phil

[Falcon 269]

Its just that the note in the manual ( which incidentaly is also in the Fazer thou manual) says that the actual number of clicks or turns always represents the entire adjustment range.

It also says Cornflakes on the side of a bus but that doesn't mean they sell them ... 

The Gen 1 fork rebound adjuster has something like 42 clicks (give or take a few  ) but according to the fine folks at K-tech, only the first 22 or so have any influence on the damping.  'Tis what it 'tis.

Sorry to hear about the Tom and Jerry toe.  Hope it eases up soon.