Ten year overhaul (a lot of newbie questions)

[gasmenace]

Hi folks

I've owned the same '02 Gen-1 since I bought it as an ex-demo in 2003. It came with a hugger and belly thingy fitted. Total mileage about 15k (I know!). I plan to keep riding it, as I doubt I'd find a better bike.

History: I haven't modified it to date apart from fitting a Scottoiler and Givi kit. It has been dealer serviced annually (I'm useless with spanners) and the EXUP valve has been checked and lubed at my request at each service. So far it has only needed a battery or two replacing, and its only breakdown was due to a dead battery. I don't thrash the engine, but it doesn't get routinely adjusted/checked/topped up/cleaned very often (ever?); I do mostly summer miles, wet and dry. I'm XXL+ size, so the suspension (it's been set up to suit me and seems fine) probably gets well tested.

Current blemishes: bit of bubbling on some of the metal engine detachable cover plates, otherwise it's pretty much rust free, but dirty (still has last year's flies on the screen).

Over the winter, I'd like to have it brought back to "feels like new" or even "feels better than new!" condition ("looks like new" would be nice too, but much less important), and set it up for another 10 hopefully trouble free years. I'm not keen for any mods that might put my insurance up, but am I right in thinking I can now get "classic" insurance on it?

Already on the list (the first five are courtesy of advice already received hereabouts) are:
 

• full suspension overhaul/upgrade/replacement (all input on the best route welcome!) (R6 unit ordered from Devilsyam)
• full brake seal overhaul, with new master cylinders (any useful "improvements" to braking to be made? an aftermarket ABS would be nice!)
• braided hoses (which are the best? source?) (Hel kit ordered)
• wiring loom check for corrosion/security/contact
• louder horn (already ordered!)
• new chain/sprockets if needed
• new cables if needed
• replace rusty bolts/connectors
• New tyres (I've always had Bridgestones, but is there a better choice nowadays for a sedate, upright, low mileage type rider!?) (Bridgestones ordered)
• bar riser (type? source?) as my neck now kills me after a few hours
• heated grips (type/source?) (not going to bother)
• headlight lighting upgrade (is there one?)
• comfy replacement seat (type? source? numb arse syndrome worsening)
• a modest tune-up perhaps, aiming for smoothness, rather than power increase, as I'm definitely no racer or track day god (what and how?)
• umm... that's all I can think of

Any input from the Group Mind about the best way to proceed would be much appreciated!

Thanks

Colin

[Dave48]

Hi Colin,
Just a few thoughts re your bike plans. You have already described yourself as the more sedate(mature?) type of rider-sounds like me. Im 64 & have done all the "been there done that" type of stuff & Im happy to enjoy the rest of lifes journey @ speeds where my eyes can remain focussed on my surroundings & within the limitations of a somewhat abused body!   You probably wont be going anywhere near expl oring the limits so a refresh of suspension ie change of fork oil and get the settings right for your weight etc. Some members go for the full monty F&R but unless your rear suspension is shot theres prob no point going for anything more exotic but members like DevilsYam are the ones to talk to re upgrades.
Brakes: Hel or Goodridge available everywhere. I prefer the twin line front system -one hose running to each calliper from master cylinder. Rear one single line so set of 3 bike specific hoses approx cost £75, and specify chrome or s/less steel banjos NOT alloy.
No need to change master cylinders unless troublesome-just purchase the master cylinder overhaul kits(pref YAMAHA) and the brake calliper seal kits-I prefer YAMAHA because although dearer than pattern parts THEY ALWAYS FIT FIRST TIME!  While doingall this strip & clean brake callipers check pads, clean support pins, piston seal grooves and lube new seals/piston with red rubber brake grease. Copper grease back of brake pads SPARINGLY also support pins and anti-rattle shims.
For all electrical connections I use electrical contact cleaner spray & ACF for all year round protection. GT85 is a good general cleaning/lubricating spray & smells better burning off a warmiing engine!
Cables=unless frayed/damaged/corroded-use a pressure lubricator attachment-about £7 from bike shop
Scotoiler should prolong life of chain & sprocketscheck articles elsewhere on forum
Tyres-personal preference here. Bridgestones good as any for most purposes.
My own starting point would be a thorough deep clean of bike-but I never use pressure washers-sinceI saw what they can do to van paintwork!
Points re comfort-seat bar risers talk to others for advice
Finally modest tune up-carb balancing and idler speed Air & fuel filter OK-Go ride it!

[gasmenace]

Brakes: Hel or Goodridge available everywhere. I prefer the twin line front system -one hose running to each calliper from master cylinder. Rear one single line so set of 3 bike specific hoses approx cost £75, and specify chrome or s/less steel banjos NOT alloy.

Will specify a "race" (double) set - I quite like the metal look, but may just go for black

No need to change master cylinders unless troublesome-just purchase the master cylinder overhaul kits(pref YAMAHA) and the brake calliper seal kits-I prefer YAMAHA because although dearer than pattern parts THEY ALWAYS FIT FIRST TIME! 

Duly noted!

For all electrical connections I use electrical contact cleaner spray & ACF for all year round protection. GT85 is a good general cleaning/lubricating spray & smells better burning off a warmiing engine!
Cables=unless frayed/damaged/corroded-use a pressure lubricator attachment-about £7 from bike shop

All now ordered

My own starting point would be a thorough deep clean of bike

I've just this minute booked a £40 valet cos I'm a rich, idle sod!

Finally modest tune up-carb balancing and idler speed Air & fuel filter OK-Go ride it!

Sounds like a plan!

Colin

[ghostbiker]

A good winter or even spring thing is to get a ACF 50 treatment.
Nooj on this site will do them but other places to.
They clean the bike well then pressure treat it with A mist of acf50 fantastic service and helps protect the bike as well as clean it.


Shock at this age is prob past its best. A refurb or R6 or aftermarket shock depending on price. Front just give a good service. That's enough for most. Or throw in New springs if your flush.

[gasmenace]

A good winter or even spring thing is to get a ACF 50 treatment.
Nooj on this site will do them but other places to.
They clean the bike well then pressure treat it with A mist of acf50 fantastic service and helps protect the bike as well as clean it.


Shock at this age is prob past its best. A refurb or R6 or aftermarket shock depending on price. Front just give a good service. That's enough for most. Or throw in New springs if your flush.

I'll ask the valeter if he can apply it, if not I'll get some and put it on myself!


R6 shock? Are they OK for gentlemen of a ... ahem ... fuller figure?

[manuel32]

You mean "do fat people ride R6s?" and are they ok ?

[gasmenace]

You mean "do fat people ride R6s?" and are they ok ?

Sort of, but mainly will a R6 shock be be adjustable enough to be up to the job of supporting this particular fat person if fitted to my bike? Or should I stick to original? Or something different?

[devilsyam]

depends on the term fat lol i have done 3 for the fuller figure chap ie 20 stone lol but above that you really need a harley or a goldwing

[Dave48]

20 stone would be considered a lightweight the other side of the pond!

[devilsyam]

yeah guess thats why they ride harleys then

[richfzs]

I'm no expert on Harleys, but that doesn't look like a Fat Boy...

[gasmenace]

yeah guess thats why they ride harleys then

Whoa! I'm big all right, but I'm not in that guy's league - at least, I hope not!

[Falcon 269]

R6 shock? Are they OK for gentlemen of a ... ahem ... fuller figure?

Definitely better than the standard shock which is sprung for a rider weighing 14st in full kit.

Upgunning the stock shock with a stiffer spring has limits.  If the spring required is too stiff, it overcomes the range of rebound damping available.

If you're around 20st, I'd think about a Nitron or similar sprung and valved for your weight.

Take professional advice and while you're asking, see what they say about the forks.  I'd recommend fitting suitably rated linear springs at a minimum.

[gasmenace]

R6 shock? Are they OK for gentlemen of a ... ahem ... fuller figure?

If you're around 20st, I'd think about a Nitron or similar sprung and valved for your weight.

Take professional advice and while you're asking, see what they say about the forks.  I'd recommend fitting suitably rated linear springs at a minimum.

Thanks for the suspension advice.

Given that the current shock is 10 years old I'm thinking it's going to be, if not shot, at least getting tired. So my thinking is if the R6, a better unit, and new, is set up for my weight it should in theory be a marked improvement which will last for years.

Anyway, it's ordered. If for some reason it doesn't work for me, maybe it'll spur me to go on a diet! I'm sure it'll sell on OK, and I'll then see a pro as you advise.

What's the story with the linear front fork springs? I upgraded my old FJ1200 with progressive springs, but that was 12 years ago, and I couldn't swear I felt a whole lot of difference afterwards. Haven't touched the Fazer ones, apart from when setting up the whole lot for me not long after purchase.

Colin

[PaulSmith]

I have to say that at 15K in ten years, you don't give the impression of actually enjoying it. And while of course the Gen1 is the best bike every made, that doesn't mean it is the best bike for your needs. Tourers are an obvious option to look at, but take a little time to consider other options such as  Euro-Trailies or tourers.

[gasmenace]

I have to say that at 15K in ten years, you don't give the impression of actually enjoying it. And while of course the Gen1 is the best bike every made, that doesn't mean it is the best bike for your needs. Tourers are an obvious option to look at, but take a little time to consider other options such as  Euro-Trailies or tourers.

Fair comment, and I've thought long and hard on the points you raise already, but keep coming back to keeping the Fazer as the best option.

I used to be a year round commuter, but in the past five years haven't been able to ride as much as I'd like to for various reasons. None to do with the Fazer.

Work has got harder, I've become softer mainly.

However I plan to try to sort those issues out when I retire in March next year. The 15k Fazer miles have all been pleasurable. I've toured a bit on it - the Ardennes is the furthest. I honestly haven't seen or ridden a bike that suits me as well, so rather than switch bikes the question I have already asked myself (and answered) is: "Do I do the bike up, or do I give the bike up?" The status quo, of letting it gently decay, along with me probably, isn't an option.

I suppose I want to try the first option before I move on to the second!

Colin

[violetsdaddy]

And while of course the Gen1 is the best bike ever made

     No it ain't.

[SEPTIKANGEL]

depends on the term fat lol i have done 3 for the fuller figure chap ie 20 stone lol but above that you really need a harley or a goldwing

Oh Luke you are a scream 

[phil on a fazer]

i tried some bar risers a while ago. i bought them for my Tenere but put them on the fazer for a bit. A little weird at first but i think they made the position better.

I think the true answer would be bar risers that also move the bars back a TINY bit. and maybe......either rotate the bars up a fraction....or look at some bars that have more of a sweep back effect.

[devilsyam]

renthal 754 or 755 mid rise way better on the back same diamentions are the xjr bars used both and stock lines reach
still want higher but love the stock bars then gen 2 risers 25mm taller

[SEPTIKANGEL]

i tried some bar risers a while ago. i bought them for my Tenere but put them on the fazer for a bit. A little weird at first but i think they made the position better.

I think the true answer would be bar risers that also move the bars back a TINY bit. and maybe......either rotate the bars up a fraction....or look at some bars that have more of a sweep back effect.

How do these grab ya then? 

[Falcon 269]

What's the story with the linear front fork springs? I upgraded my old FJ1200 with progressive springs, but that was 12 years ago, and I couldn't swear I felt a whole lot of difference afterwards.
Colin

The stock Fazer springs are progressive, too.  It simply means that the initial part of the spring movement is softer than the latter.  They're a compromise acknowledging that riders of many weights and riding styles will have to somehow adapt the forks to best suit them.

In the case of the Gen 1, the compromise is flawed, which doesn't help.  The first part of the spring movement is too soft, the latter part too stiff.  Yeah, call me Goldilocks, but it's true.

You can buy aftermarket progressive springs (Hyperpro are good) which have better-matched spring rates.  However, for a chunky chap such as yourself, a single rate spring (ie, linear) which supports you and the bike correctly for the entire length of the spring stroke is the best way to go.

[gasmenace]

i tried some bar risers a while ago. i bought them for my Tenere but put them on the fazer for a bit. A little weird at first but i think they made the position better.

I think the true answer would be bar risers that also move the bars back a TINY bit. and maybe......either rotate the bars up a fraction....or look at some bars that have more of a sweep back effect.

How do these grab ya then? 

I'm looking REALLY closely, but I can't see any bars...

[gasmenace]

What's the story with the linear front fork springs? I upgraded my old FJ1200 with progressive springs, but that was 12 years ago, and I couldn't swear I felt a whole lot of difference afterwards.
Colin

You can buy aftermarket progressive springs (Hyperpro are good) which have better-matched spring rates.  However, for a chunky chap such as yourself, a single rate spring (ie, linear) which supports you and the bike correctly for the entire length of the spring stroke is the best way to go.

Any pointers as to where to buy them? Now I've started to buy stuff (R6 rear, Acumen horn) I'm in a spending mood!

[gasmenace]

renthal 754 or 755 mid rise way better on the back same diamentions are the xjr bars used both and stock lines reach
still want higher but love the stock bars then gen 2 risers 25mm taller

And I thought buying a bar riser was simple!

Where do I get gen 2 risers?