Author Topic: Complete lack of start up. (Read 8295 times)

unfazed · « **Reply #25 on:** 19 November 2016, 05:24:06 pm »

It could be dodgy kill switch, but it would not cause the fuse to blow.

To give a little insight
The Ignition fuse you replaced supplies power to the solenoid and ECU (ignitor would be the correct term for the one in the fazer).
It also supplies power via the kill switch to the coils and the two relays in Starter cut box under the left side panel.
The relays in the Starter Cut box are the solenoid primary relay and the fuel pump relay.
Pressing the starter button supplies an earth via contacts of the solenoid primary relay to operate the Solenoid, which means this relay needs to be working for the solenoid to operate

A faulty side stand switch will not stop the engine turning over/starting if neutral light is on.

Check as Paul said the whitish looped connectors under the seat on the left side behind the frame cross brace to ensure they are connected properly and not corroded as these looped plugs are part of the starter and ignition circuits.

A simple way to test the kill switch if you do not have a meter or tester is to drain one bowl of the carbs.
Turn off the kill switch
Turn on the ignition switch
Turn on the kill switch, if kill switch is working the fuel pump will start clicking.
If it does not click check the fuse again.

If you have proved the kill switch to be working ok then try bypassing the solenoid with an insulated pliars or something strong but insulated like a piece of thick wire which will bridge the connectors. It will make a lot of sparking so beware. Let us know how you get on.

Word of warning, be extremely carefull not to earth the item you are bridging the solenoid contacts with

DangerNoodle · « **Reply #26 on:** 20 November 2016, 11:22:17 am »

Okay so if I'm reading this correctly the problem is somewhere in the ignition circuit rather than an issue with a stand? I need to check the white looped plugs then try, if that doesn't work drain a carb and test the kill switch? By the way, does the switch have a fuse within its assembly or is the fuse box the only place?

DangerNoodle · « **Reply #27 on:** 20 November 2016, 11:48:20 am »

Loop plugs as I found them. They all seem secure. Put the battery back on the optimiser as it showed up as needing a top up I think I'll buy a batter just as a matter of course now.

unfazed · « **Reply #28 on:** 20 November 2016, 11:51:00 am »

The fuse you replaced is used by the kill switch to supply power to the coils and start cut out circuit. Nothing in the assembly just small pieces including a small spring

Fazerider · « **Reply #29 on:** 20 November 2016, 12:33:03 pm »

If the ignition fuse blew I'd be checking around the headstock/ignition switch area for a broken wire that managed to make contact with something earthed. The parts of the wiring harness that get flexed regularly are the most likely places to get trouble, but it's also worth checking anywhere it can get pinched.

DangerNoodle · « **Reply #30 on:** 21 November 2016, 02:30:40 pm »

Had a look around the ignition cable and found this... (see photo) so I'm going to re connect it while the new battery arrives (any recommendations?

slappy · « **Reply #31 on:** 21 November 2016, 03:29:55 pm »

Strip both ends back about 3/8" then solder together and cover it with heat shrink, don't forget to slip the heat shrink over one of the wires first.
I would check all the other wires there for damage as well and see if you could move the wires enough to stop them getting chafed again in the future,

DangerNoodle · « **Reply #32 on:** 21 November 2016, 03:52:16 pm »

Cheers mate got the wire stripped back and ready to go, just need to order some shrink because I don't own any.

That being said, have you any experience with the shrink and solder tubes?

slappy · « **Reply #33 on:** 21 November 2016, 05:57:16 pm »

Never used the solder tubes but they should work, probably a bit easier to use as well.

tommyardin · « **Reply #34 on:** 22 November 2016, 01:44:36 am »

Quote from: DangerNoodle on 19 November 2016, 12:03:18 pm

Haha agreed but the guy went and got a girlfriend and is more often at her house now :')

Go break into his shed then

unfazed · « **Reply #35 on:** 22 November 2016, 07:48:53 pm »

Quote from: DangerNoodle on 21 November 2016, 02:30:40 pm

Had a look around the ignition cable and found this... (see photo) so I'm going to re connect it while the new battery arrives (any recommendations?

That would be your problem and why the fuse blew. Looks like its been pinched due to poor routing rather than chaffing since it looks more like a cut.
With limited tools the Solder tube is probably your easiest option and permanent. Take care to route it properly when complete.

Is it the cable to the switch gear or the Ignition switch difficult to tell from the picture?

darrsi · « **Reply #36 on:** 23 November 2016, 05:26:18 am »

I've not seen those solder/heat shrink tubes before, they look like a great invention, as long as you own a heat gun.

unfazed · « **Reply #37 on:** 23 November 2016, 08:02:12 am »

A candle would even do to heat the solder and shrink the insulation, most important is to keep it away from the flame itself, might take a little longer, but will work

fazersharp · « **Reply #38 on:** 23 November 2016, 08:23:36 pm »

I like the look of those heat/shrink solder joiners. I often think about getting one of those trendy kitchen blowtorches for little jobs like this but looks like a lighter will do it

Jules-C · « **Reply #39 on:** 23 November 2016, 11:02:55 pm »

Just splicing the wires together will put a rigid section where the loom flexes with the steering which will possibly end up with the same problem again unless the loom can be rerouted so it flexes on another section away from the repair.

Alternatively replace a longer length of the broken wire so it's a bit of new wire that is doing the bending but this means two splices instead of one.

darrsi · « **Reply #40 on:** 24 November 2016, 06:43:56 am »

Candle does sound all nice and that, especially one with a nice strawberry scent perhaps, but not much good in this case for instance in a built up area, or anywhere near possible fuel.

unfazed · « **Reply #41 on:** 24 November 2016, 08:08:28 am »

Yeah, but watch the candle grease, won't do the front mudguard or rad any good dropping it on it

crickleymal · « **Reply #42 on:** 24 November 2016, 09:01:28 am »

Quote from: fazersharp on 23 November 2016, 08:23:36 pm

I like the look of those heat/shrink solder joiners. I often think about getting one of those trendy kitchen blowtorches for little jobs like this but looks like a lighter will do it

A kitchen blowtorch would be far too hot I think.

DangerNoodle · « **Reply #43 on:** 24 November 2016, 10:31:44 pm »

Evening all, sorry for the lack of replies lately, I'm not dead!

Anyway just an update, I've got a new Yuasa and I'll be installing it tomorrow along with fixing the previously mentioned cable. Fingers crossed that'll fix the issues.

DangerNoodle · « **Reply #44 on:** 26 November 2016, 01:44:38 pm »

Okay so while attempting to join the cables I accidentally clipped through one >. < so what thickness cable do I need to buy to rejoin the two sides?

darrsi · « **Reply #45 on:** 26 November 2016, 02:41:26 pm »

Quote from: DangerNoodle on 26 November 2016, 01:44:38 pm

Okay so while attempting to join the cables I accidentally clipped through one >. < so what thickness cable do I need to buy to rejoin the two sides?

Anything that isn't thinner than what's already there.

TOADY · « **Reply #46 on:** 28 November 2016, 06:24:03 pm »

Quote from: Paul on 17 November 2016, 10:09:43 am

I had a similar problem with mine about two weeks ago

Pressed the starter button and nothing happened at all
No clicking from the solenoid

It turned out that the alarm loop plug had come disconnected.

The alarm loop plugs (two of them) are located under the seat near the CDI box.
I think that's where you connect an alarm if you have one.

How one of them got disconnected... I've no idea.
Anyway thanks to 'Unfazed' it now seems to work fine.

i wonder????
i put a new battery in mine last thursday and its as dead as a dodo already. yet i only have a positive and negative lead going to my battery. anybody have any suggestions

bandit · « **Reply #47 on:** 28 November 2016, 07:05:07 pm »

Just a couple of suggestions did you fully charge new battery before fitting & if you use the steering lock,did you turn the key to much anti clockwise & turn the parking lights on by mistake.

His Dudeness · « **Reply #48 on:** 28 November 2016, 08:05:12 pm »

Quote from: TOADY on 28 November 2016, 06:24:03 pm

Quote from: Paul on 17 November 2016, 10:09:43 am
I had a similar problem with mine about two weeks ago

Pressed the starter button and nothing happened at all
No clicking from the solenoid

It turned out that the alarm loop plug had come disconnected.

The alarm loop plugs (two of them) are located under the seat near the CDI box.
I think that's where you connect an alarm if you have one.

How one of them got disconnected... I've no idea.
Anyway thanks to 'Unfazed' it now seems to work fine.

i wonder????
i put a new battery in mine last thursday and its as dead as a dodo already. yet i only have a positive and negative lead going to my battery. anybody have any suggestions

I'd charge up the battery fully. then start the bike and measure the voltage across the battery while the bike's running and revved to check if it's charging or not or if it's over charging. if the voltage is staying the same or dropping you'll have to test the charging circuit. if it is charging you might have something drawing current while the bike is off. turn the bike off. disconnect one of the wires going to the battery and set your multimeter to amps then connect one of the multimeter leads to the battery and the other to the wire you just disconnected from the battery. check if there's any current draw draining the battery

DangerNoodle · « **Reply #49 on:** 28 November 2016, 09:04:32 pm »

Quote from: His Dudeness on 28 November 2016, 08:05:12 pm

Quote from: TOADY on 28 November 2016, 06:24:03 pm
Quote from: Paul on 17 November 2016, 10:09:43 am
I had a similar problem with mine about two weeks ago

Pressed the starter button and nothing happened at all
No clicking from the solenoid

It turned out that the alarm loop plug had come disconnected.

The alarm loop plugs (two of them) are located under the seat near the CDI box.
I think that's where you connect an alarm if you have one.

How one of them got disconnected... I've no idea.
Anyway thanks to 'Unfazed' it now seems to work fine.

i wonder????
i put a new battery in mine last thursday and its as dead as a dodo already. yet i only have a positive and negative lead going to my battery. anybody have any suggestions

I'd charge up the battery fully. then start the bike and measure the voltage across the battery while the bike's running and revved to check if it's charging or not or if it's over charging. if the voltage is staying the same or dropping you'll have to test the charging circuit. if it is charging you might have something drawing current while the bike is off. turn the bike off. disconnect one of the wires going to the battery and set your multimeter to amps then connect one of the multimeter leads to the battery and the other to the wire you just disconnected from the battery. check if there's any current draw draining the battery

You want 14 to 14.75 volts steadily when the bike is running. Obviously anything above is over charging and below could mean your charge circuit is broken.