Author Topic: Skipping or spinning... (Read 7728 times)

unfazed · « **Reply #25 on:** 27 August 2016, 10:05:10 pm »

Change that bearing, it's focced and change the seal also.

A chain and sprockets won't go astray either.

unfazed · « **Reply #26 on:** 27 August 2016, 11:01:47 pm »

Bearing is 60/28 C3 2RS

Seal is 35mm x 52mm x 8mm (unsprung)

The OEM Chain and Sprocket Kit part number is 5LV-W001A-01 and can be reasonably priced, the only down side is that the swinging arm has to come off to fit it as it is an endless chain.
However I find it worthwhile as it allows me inspect and grease linkage and swinging arm bearings at the same time.

! NOTE: If you do the bearing yourself be aware it has a circlip holding it in and is between the seal and the bearing !

anutz · « **Reply #27 on:** 28 August 2016, 09:38:24 am »

Thanks Unfazed, have a full bearing set on the way with seals etc, and reading up now on whats involved, looks fine as long as i get the thing in straight!

sadlonelygit · « **Reply #28 on:** 28 August 2016, 11:16:25 am »

Just seen the video. Oh dear.
I would be looking at suspension bearings/bushings as well as i'm guessing that bike hasn't seen much tlc.

anutz · « **Reply #29 on:** 28 August 2016, 12:07:45 pm »

Once i have the front sprocket off ( which is proving a challenge ) i will then get the swingarm off and the rear shock will get a good going over, its actually really handling well - so not going to change the shock right now, but the whole rear end needs TLC.

Its like my FZS600 all over again, but its fun!

unfazed · « **Reply #30 on:** 28 August 2016, 01:06:07 pm »

Don't break it

anutz · « **Reply #31 on:** 28 August 2016, 01:08:35 pm »

so far so good!

Got the sprocket off with lots of heat and plus gas, so what can go wrong eh?

not going near any exhaust studs.....till Christmas...

anutz · « **Reply #32 on:** 28 August 2016, 05:37:03 pm »

Update...

Chain/Sprockets etc all off, have had a look at the swingarm...

It has tiny movement up and down, just like my 600cc, and this is normal, but it does have a little left and right movement, not normal compared to my FZs600....

So assuming the bearings in here also may need replacing...any other signs to look out for, currently removing swing arm....

anutz · « **Reply #33 on:** 28 August 2016, 05:45:03 pm »

Quote from: anutz on 28 August 2016, 05:37:03 pm

Update...

Chain/Sprockets etc all off, have had a look at the swingarm...

It has tiny movement up and down, just like my 600cc, and this is normal, but it does have a little left and right movement, not normal compared to my FZs600....

So assuming the bearings in here also may need replacing...any other signs to look out for, currently removing swing arm....

Looking at the manual, it does allow for 1mm of side play at the end of the swingarm, will whip mine out and check the bearings and re-grease any way, decide what they are like then, or may just replace them whilst its all in bits, have the rear wheel bearings to do anyway...

Dave48 · « **Reply #34 on:** 29 August 2016, 06:19:05 am »

Since you have the rear end stripped out it makes sense to check ALL the bearings & seals-swingarm/suspension linkage/wheel bearings/cush drive rubbers.
Yamaha were never generous with grease in these bearings & being "out of sight" & "in the line of fire" from road shit/wet/salt etc tend to be overlooked until bike develop symptoms like you describe. When you are putting nigh on 140bhp through drivetrain onto road you need to make sure there is no excess play/wear & that caged rollers are free to do their job. Eventually you may want to replace rear shock as at 13 years old it will be well past its best.
The FZS 1000 is an amazing bike-wish i still had mine!

Fazerjon · « **Reply #35 on:** 29 August 2016, 09:50:23 am »

Quote from: anutz on 27 August 2016, 09:04:38 pm

So i suspect i will be doing the following

New Front/Rear sprocket/chain
New Rear Bearings

The chain and sprockets i can change myself i have done that before

have never messed with drifting bearings out and seating new ones, is this best left to the local mechanics?

don't want to nacker the wheel

If you're replacing the wheel bearings while its all out, take your time drifting the old bearings out, try and drift it out evenly all the way round. Once the first one is out its much easier to access the next one. When you put the new ones in, I always use the old bearing on top of the new one to tap it virtually all the way home, just make sure you don't tap the new one in too far so you can't get it back out! Good luck.

anutz · « **Reply #36 on:** 29 August 2016, 10:52:39 am »

Thanks for the input Fazerjon....

I am going to get a pic of all the bits i have in order in the wheel...

The bearing i am replacing is on the disc side, i am not sure i will so the others, as they have no play, and are no grinding or crunching...

Access should be ok with a long drift, i can remove all the spacers easily any way to get access....will get a pic

Was a pain to get the oil seal out, rusted in, and now i need some circlip pliers so off to a shop...

Dustydes · « **Reply #37 on:** 29 August 2016, 11:07:18 am »

Soak circlip in wd40 they can stick/rust in and be a pain to get out. If really bad you can heat up centre with a small blow torch they then fold in half and come out, but you will need new after.
I know its more expense but its worth replacing both bearings while your at it, they have all done the same mileage and its job done for a good few years.

good luck

Des

anutz · « **Reply #38 on:** 29 August 2016, 11:13:05 am »

Quote from: Dustydes on 29 August 2016, 11:07:18 am

Soak circlip in wd40 they can stick/rust in and be a pain to get out. If really bad you can heat up centre with a small blow torch they then fold in half and come out, but you will need new after.
I know its more expense but its worth replacing both bearings while your at it, they have all done the same mileage and its job done for a good few years.

good luck

Des

I have a set on the way with 3 bearings i.e. 2 for the wheel and one for the sprocket carrier, as well as seals...

I shall read up on the other 2, the one i think may be tricky is the inner rear wheel one behind the sprocket carrier, i can see how to get the one by the disc, the one that is certainly knackered, and the one in the sprocket carrier is not hard, its the spindled one that i am trying to figure out...

anutz · « **Reply #39 on:** 29 August 2016, 11:28:08 am »

Oil/Dust seal removed, this is the main bearing i wanted to replace, as the video shows its buggered.

with spacers removed i have good access from the back of it

Said spacers...

And the other near side bearing, which is ok but may replace, just cannot see much of a lip on it to be able to whack it out from the other side...

anutz · « **Reply #40 on:** 29 August 2016, 02:17:19 pm »

Done the knackered one, as you can see came out evenly, just took my time as others suggested, was a little nervy but all seems good...

Now...how do i get the other one, the lip is almost none existant?

anutz · « **Reply #41 on:** 29 August 2016, 07:07:33 pm »

Anyone any experience on how i get the needle roller bearing out, i.e.the other one in the rear wheel.

I have access to the back of it but its almost got no lip above the inner of the wheel assembly, so dont see how i can use the same technique i used for the other bearing.

Anutz

unfazed · « **Reply #42 on:** 29 August 2016, 09:29:11 pm »

Is the needle bearing actually worn? I have only ever replaced one, but many roller bearings. Last roller bearing I replaced was on Downeys bike and the needle and sprocket hub bearings were fine.

Best way to check is is with the axle in and the new bearing lightly seated, unfortunately you have driven the new bearing all the way in and I do not think it is possible to remove the needle bearing without removing the roller bearing first. Thankfully for you if the needle bearing is worn, new roller bearing are very cheap even for branded ones, last FAG one I bought from a local supplier was €10.
Worst case scenario is you will have to remove the roller bearing again and use it to push out the seal thus keeping the seal intact.

Last time I removed one of these needle bearing I used an off cut of steel 300mm long from the local engineering shop the same diameter as the spacer. Dry heat and a good few thumps of a Club hammer should get it out, just ensure it is well supported at a height than the length of the bearing and the space for the bearing to drop out is clear.. It will much harder to get out than the roller.

lew600fazer · « **Reply #43 on:** 29 August 2016, 09:44:57 pm »

Quote from: Dustydes on 25 August 2016, 07:14:00 pm

Quote from: anutz on 25 August 2016, 06:02:58 pm
Front

Rear

On it's way, but not enough to skip, at least not if adjusted correctly

Those sprockets are shot and I suspect the chain is knackered as well, looks like I would be renewing those first before going down another route, they are toast.

anutz · « **Reply #44 on:** 29 August 2016, 10:00:06 pm »

Thanks both...

Unfazed, have not put the new bearings in yet, not even got them yet

May be worth doing if i am doing the other one, the sprocket carrier one i can easily do any time...

As for the sprockets/chain, yep doing them without a doubt, if u look at the video i posted a link to earlier you will see why i also ended up removing this bearing..

anutz · « **Reply #45 on:** 01 September 2016, 09:47:55 pm »

So all is well!

Put the new bearing in, i put it in the fridge first, and it went in easily with the old one to whack on, i did shave the old one off all round with a dremmel so no worries with it getting stuck....

Put the new chain on, and riveted it, fun...

End result no play in the back end any where....

But STILL got this slipping/spinning sensation, went to do some overtakes tonight off roundabouts onto A roads, and giving it gas it goes but then almost slips, so might be clutch...

which is fun as never messed with a clutch, and plan to do an oil/filter change soon....

Dustydes · « **Reply #46 on:** 06 September 2016, 04:42:24 pm »

What type of oil are you running, I found fully synthetic oil made my old 1989 FZR1000 clutch slip and had to change back to mineral oil.
Sure you will get a few reply's ref oil now.
Worth checking clutch plates first

Des

anutz · « **Reply #47 on:** 06 September 2016, 05:43:18 pm »

Hi Des,

Not sure as not done an oil change yet, but will happen next few nights as need to get the sump off to sort the water pump out!

Will be replacing with Semi 10W/40 Motul i think it is and a new filter...

Anutz

Dustydes · « **Reply #48 on:** 08 September 2016, 05:39:03 pm »

Yep

10/40 is the way to go, as for make that's a 10,000 post question :-)

Fazerjon · « **Reply #49 on:** 09 September 2016, 11:00:06 pm »

I always use silkolene 10W 40 semi with a filter from M&P around £30