Downpipe removal....Snapped things....

[unfazed]

i was thinking the same....and i would make sure it was a full head i.e. Caps, Cams...the lot....then just the gasket would be new.....

The thing was i have been warned off doing just the head from a few friends, they have done a fair bit of work with car engines, not motorcycles...


I know it could be warped, could have valve issues, but if it did not, or they were inspected....what would be the main issues?


Anyone on here replaced just the head and been ok?

A full engine could have the same problems plus gearbox issues,

[Paulfzs]

update?

[anutz]

hi Paulfzs....


So - still on hold, the engine shop did not get to look at it on Friday - Monday/Tuesday they will look at it....so hopefully we shall have some success!!!!


As longs as that all goes well it should be sound, only change is location of the holes on piston 2's down pipe mount, then its just making sure i am careful on re-assembly...


Then i need to patch up the busted hole, but will get it working again first then i can take care of that


Its driving me crazy now 


But there is not a part of the bike now i have not seen - and have been checking all the ancillary parts, carbs, fuel pump etc...


Planned to get an old fazer at some point to mess with and understand/take to bits.....but might not need too after this 


Anutz

[Paulfzs]

you can pick up  2nd hand damaged engines for pennys, ive sold 2 for £50 each now.


whilst youre there check valves shims chain the usual jazz.


if you don't know ask on here and check manual, if you still arent sure dont touch it.


i would of thought any fabrication place could drill it out for you, 15 minute job really.

[anutz]

thanks


i might end up getting a new engine if all else fails...i have seen your thread about changing an engine - did you put an 02 in an 98 frame?


will be super careful with timing and clearances as well.....have a feeler gauge and all the correct moly grease/oil so know what to expect, and won't start it until i am 100% sure


have some shims as well i got off ebay so can make any needed adjustments...


they have taken there time - but its there now so i will just wait for there call - back at work next week so time is short...


One question i have, i took the air-bot out and that involved disconnecting the crank case breather, but also 2 other hoses that connect either side of the air box...


they are simple to re-attach but i just wandered what they were - they form into a T and can be seen clearly here


No mention of them in the service manual....or i do not see it...


pipes here form a T next to the bottom right of the starter...

[unfazed]

Both attach to the airbox, bigger one of the two is the crankcase ventilation directing the blow by from the crankcase back into the airbox to be burned part of the emission reduction.
T-piece one is the air box drain with a filter in it. The reason for two pipes on the drain is to allow drainage while on the centre or side stand

[anutz]

hi unfazed, that bit i know  , question is where do they go form there and what do they do...


I know what the Crank Case Breather does and it makes sense....just not sure what there 2 do and where they disappear to once the leave the air box and meet at the T..

[unfazed]

hi unfazed, that bit i know  , question is where do they go form there and what do they do...


I know what the Crank Case Breather does and it makes sense....just not sure what there 2 do and where they disappear to once the leave the air box and meet at the T..

Hit the post button before I finished typing

[Paulfzs]

i put an 03 engine in a 98 frame, so far ive got an 03 engine, 03 pillion hangers, fazer thou rear caliper im sure theres probably more that ive forgotten.


the engine change is difficult!


im sure once you get em drilled they will be fine.

[unfazed]

All you need now is the 03 Headlight and fairing and you would be sorted 

[anutz]

So those 2 hoses....that form a T, what do they do and where do they go?


I was thinking they must be some sort of ventilation for some other parts of the engine but not sure what, and i did't think they would be breathers....why would an airbox need to breath

[unfazed]

hi unfazed, that bit i know  , question is where do they go form there and what do they do...


I know what the Crank Case Breather does and it makes sense....just not sure what there 2 do and where they disappear to once the leave the air box and meet at the T..

Both attach to the airbox, bigger one of the two is the crankcase ventilation directing the blow by from the crankcase back into the airbox to be burned off as part of the emission reduction.
T-piece one is the air box drain with a filter in it. The reason for two pipes on the drain is to allow drainage while on the centre or side stand

I corrected my original post after clicking "send" before I finished typing

[Paulfzs]

All you need now is the 03 Headlight and fairing and you would be sorted 

i would if they weren't so expensive!

[anutz]

Looking GOOD!

[Paulfzs]

happy days!!
now get it fitted its hot outside!

[unfazed]

Make sure all the swarf from the drilling is cleaned out of the head before you reassembly it, the picture shows a few bits in the cam seat.

[fazersharp]

Hu-focing-rray

Dont forget to give those pipes a coat of paint 1st  you want granvile cylinder black

[anutz]

Hu-focing-ray indeed fazer#


Will make sure the head is spotless - up top and on the mating surfaces


And will also make sure the block mating surface is cleaned up as well...


I think this is where the work really begins 


Any tips on making the gasket surfaces clean on the head and block?

[anutz]

current state of head underside - planning to use combination of razor blades and wet n dry to sort out the old gasket material - same on the block

[anutz]

Progress...

[anutz]

And the block is coming along - little tricky still in the frame with the head studs in - but its just slow....


ALSO the patterned lines still left on the head and block, should i get ride of them, seems very smooth, at least to the touch

[Jules-C]

Don't try and get rid of the patterned machining marks.

Making a good job of it. Tricky doing the top of the block but just take your time. Much better spending extra hour now than finding problems later because you started to rush.

[anutz]

thanks!


Yes, i have read somewhere else to leave the marks


the head was easy as its out, the block as you say is a little more tricky, but another hour tonight and they will both be ready for a final wet and dry rub down

[fazersharp]

GOOD NEWS ---- for me anyway My nuts are off!!
After years of reading these posts about snapped studs I knew that sooner or later I would need to swap my 17 year old exhaust, although the exhaust is ok for now I have been soaking me nuts in Kroil for 4 months carefully  getting behind the clamp with a syringe and a blunt needle, they are all back on now with copper grease and to 10NM except for the top inner one on the gear change side because I need a 150mm extension bar for my torque wrench.
I used a 1/4 inch set mostly but because I didnt have the 1/4 extension bar I had to use the 3/8 and 1/2 inch set but I just think you can too easily put too much pressure on with those sizes when undoing them nuts.
I would recommend you use a 1/4 socket set and you will need a 150mm extension bar for it as that last one - nothing else will fit between the exhaust and the hard rad pipe thingy, although I managed to do it up with a normal ring spanner at about 1/4 or less each turn.

I thought this the best place to tell my story as hopfully along with anutz story of woe it may help people in the future, it dose feel like a weight off my shoulders knowing that they are now ok as I would dread to have to go through what you have anutz. Perhaps it is a relevant detail to add that although the nuts have not been touched in 17 years the bike only has 18k on the clock and the last 14k of them has been in the dry only by me.   
     

[anutz]

"anutz story of woe"......


soon to be the "anutz story of success!!!!!"