Cam chain noise.. again?

[davidkent]

That way sounds far more cost effective, the bikes only done 28k, seems silly To rebuild.

Any of you guys want the job, if local enough of course? Lol

[unfazed]

All a pretty good and within spec.
Unfortunately sounds from what you say about the tensioner the chain is definitely suspect, It will be fine and will not break (Unless you are very very very unlucky) as there are adjustments left, mine was rattling like shaking a steel box of full nails before I finally changed it. A friend was 2 cars behind me at the traffic lights one day and he could hear it rattling

It is not an engine out job although some do take out the engine and strip it to replace the chain with an endless one.
I used a split DID chain from Wemoto and it has been fine for the last 40000 miles.

The extra work over what you have done is removing the plugs and removing the cams, split the chain attach the new one to the old one feed it through, fit the split link, peen over the rivets. Put it all back together. 

The most difficult part of the job is putting the chain split link together as it is a Hy-Vo chain.

However unless you are confident in joining chains I would leave it to a mechanic

I have seen Fazer chains last as little as 30,000 miles and as much as 100000 miles, could never understand the huge differences

[davidkent]

That is madness.

I don't want the split engine job so what you're saying is I can do it with the engine in situ and in a day?


Perhaps I'll do the job myself then. How would I attach the old chain to the new? And assumably it's a case of turn the engine over and pull it on through?

Is there a terrible amount of space to work on and join the chain and how does the link actually Work?

Don't suppose you've a link to your chain?

Perhaps I'll order one and get sorted towards the end of summer.

I'll probably never do 20k on the bike let alone 40k.

Thanks chaps, disappointing outcome but not as drastic as I thought

[unfazed]

I had the whole bike stripped and back together with a new chain in a day.

 http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/02-03/ and scroll down to the engine section

They list a tourmax chain as an endless chain and  list the soft link separately. Buy both chain and split link and split the new chain. They used to list a DID one but the Tourmax is fine. You could always enquire about the DID one as they list a soft link for it.
I used a piece thick copper wire which fitted through the rivet hole in the links to join both chain to feed in the new one.
I measured the new chain before fitting it and the old one was 1.5 links longer. Timing was well out, but was still running fine
Once the plugs and cams and chain are out you can turn the crank all you want without doing any harm..

Take care removing the cams and loosen all cap bolts uniformly and tap the caps to relase them if they are not moving when the bolts are loosened a mm or so. Crack a cam cap and the head is junk as there are machined as a set in the factory.

I peened the rivets using a 2.5lb lump hammer and a ball pein hammer. Got a friend to hold the chain and the lump hammer against the back of the soft link and tapped around the head of the rivet. Very scientific, but it works, once the head of the rivit is peened over and not to tight on the link it won't be going anywhere.

Don't let anything fall down the tunnel into the engine, pack the tunnel well with lint free rag, be parnoid about it if necessary.

[davidkent]

Sounds brilliant, I'll get on the website now. Might even order up

[davidkent]

How would you split the new chain? They're usually pressed over ends on there pins aren't they?

[davidkent]

And assumably the way to measure the new and old chain is to count the links and use the same amount on the new one as the old?

Sorry for what may seem silly questions just want everything correct

[unfazed]

Standard chain splitter with a pin to suit the rivet size to push out the rivet. Same as splitting any chain. They are not peened over much just enough to prevent the link coming off

With the new chain split I laid it full length on a piece of paper, marked its length at both ends on the paper and when I removed the old one I laid on the same piece of paper.

The Wemoto chain is 130 links which is the same number of links as the original one.

[davidkent]

Yet again your reply was useful as ever.
Ordered this and started ordering full service kit, k and n, braided lines etc lol.

Might as well do it all.

Chain was much cheaper than I'd imagined.

Any recommendations on a well priced chain splitter / riviter?

May as well do the job with the right tool as it'll be the first one I've done.

I'm an electrician so this stuff though I can do it, doesn't happen often!

Thanks

[unfazed]

I have two a Motion Pro and a Whale Brand. The Motion Pro is fine to split the chain, but despite being listed as for joining cam chains it is not suitable for use on the Fazer cam chain soft link which is why I used the two hammer method. I only use the Whale Brand one for the very large chains and is not suitable for cam chains.

Would be easier to borrow one if anyone you know has one as you will be only using it twice, once to split the new chain and second to split the old chain.

I would ride a fazer with braided hose first before changing. I changed mine for Goodrich ones and ended up removing them and putting originals back on as I did not like the feel of the braided ones. Felt a bit wooden which is the best word to describe it, but many on here love them. The K&N is a very good option.


 

[davidkent]

That sounds fair comment to be fair. Perhaps I'll see if I can borrow one though don't mind purchasing one if it'll actually do the job.

Brake fluid needs doing anyway so will change the lines and if I decide I don't like them ill fit new oem  ones to replace my old standard ones

I've read the k and n is a good option though yet to find a definitive answer as to why, apart from not having to replace it ever again just clean. ..


Cheers

[unfazed]

Reason is very simple, the 600 runs slightly rich and K&Ns less restrictive air flow improves the fueling.

[davidkent]

Seems obvious now.. Lol will I see any gains likely?

[darrsi]

Seems obvious now.. Lol will I see any gains likely?

Throttle response will be sharper and more responsive, and the bike will just feel like it's breathing more freely.

[His Dudeness]

This thread is kind of typical of the " I think I have a cam chain noise what should I do". Might be worth adding it to the fzs 600 articles section.

[unfazed]

Most important when tackling the job is a good quality torque wrench with a range of 1 to 30Nm as the camshaft cap bolts, the cam cover bolts and tensioner bolts are only 10Nm. The spring retaining bolt of the the tensioner is 20Nm and the alternator/generator cover bolts are 12Nm.

[keratos]

This thread is kind of typical of the " I think I have a cam chain noise what should I do". Might be worth adding it to the fzs 600 articles section.

+1
I will be doing this before winter sets in and would benefit from such an article with videos and pics drawn from thread responses posted by the gurus like unfazed, darrsi, DeadEye , Dudeness etc.

yes, +1 that

[davidkent]

Off you go then chaps, get writing

[unfazed]

I am not replacing my cam chain just to make a video 

[davidkent]

Was only 50 quid, treat yourself

If you won't do it then post me your torque wrench and rivet tool so I can do mine lmao

[unfazed]

 

[keratos]

I am not replacing my cam chain just to make a video 

add a few extra repair jobs into the video then