Author Topic: broken exhaust studs (Read 10238 times)

h7thl · « **on:** 09 July 2014, 06:36:25 pm »

hi all as per title i have 2 broken exhaust studs what is the best way to get them out as the engine is still in the bike and i dont fancy trying to take the engine out any help would be great

Deefer666 · « **Reply #1 on:** 09 July 2014, 09:26:19 pm »

If they are on the middle ports, chances are that you have to take the lump out

Candyman · « **Reply #2 on:** 10 July 2014, 02:26:04 pm »

OK don't do this

I had two middle studs snap on me. I laid the bike down on a mattress to get easy access, tied the wheel up and very very slowly drilled the studs out starting with a very small high quality metal drill bit, increasing the size of the drill bit as I made progress. Did take a week of careful drilling and lots of cups of tea and nerves. Had to make sure I was drilling straight Replaced with new studs ordered from AJSutton. As I say don't do it.....unless you you have lots of tea!

Jules-C · « **Reply #3 on:** 10 July 2014, 02:34:25 pm »

Where are they broken, flush with the cylinder head? In which case engine out. If they sticking out from cylinder head and have some thread but not quite long enough to get through the exhaust clamp a temporary fix might be possible with furniture connector nuts like eBay item 281189197636

Buzz · « **Reply #4 on:** 10 July 2014, 06:41:34 pm »

Quote from: Jules-C on 10 July 2014, 02:34:25 pm

Where are they broken, flush with the cylinder head? In which case engine out. If they sticking out from cylinder head and have some thread but not quite long enough to get through the exhaust clamp a temporary fix might be possible with furniture connector nuts like eBay item 281189197636

Or rivet nuts

HarryHornby · « **Reply #5 on:** 11 July 2014, 07:25:40 am »

take it to a local garage........... I did, after focing my attempt up! But then I'm a very basic mechanic.

hightower · « **Reply #6 on:** 12 July 2014, 08:50:29 pm »

I know engine out sounds daunting, but I did it myself and I class myself as basic when it comes to these things. I used the opportunity to give my head and block a much needed paint, as well as lapping the valves and changing those stem seals. That's a job I class as never needing to do again now, so all good.

scottishbybirth · « **Reply #7 on:** 24 November 2014, 08:27:43 pm »

I snapped three bolts at the block this year. My solution was to use the spare lugs either side of the original lugs drilled and tapped fresh holes to take new studs. I ground the old studs flush. Admittedly the exhaust manifolds now look odd being 90degrees out of since to the outsides but a quick and easy fix. I count myself very lucky to have not caught any internal oil/water feed pipes but 3000 miles later with no loss of oil or water I must have been very lucky. And no I don't know the lottery numbers for next week he he.

Kentish · « **Reply #8 on:** 24 November 2014, 10:14:24 pm »

Engine out is the only way.

Paulfzs · « **Reply #9 on:** 24 November 2014, 10:33:16 pm »

engine out?

i did mine with the engine in...

this one is the middle one on the right hand side looking at the bike.. bit tight but still pretty easy..
start with a 2mm drill bit work up by .5.. took me about hour and half - 2 hours

Kentish · « **Reply #10 on:** 24 November 2014, 10:36:30 pm »

to do a proper job the engine has to come out. its easy taking the lump out

Paulfzs · « **Reply #11 on:** 24 November 2014, 10:49:29 pm »

Quote from: Kentish on 24 November 2014, 10:36:30 pm

to do a proper job the engine has to come out. its easy taking the lump out

i did a propper job with the engine in :S

am i missing something lol

unfazed · « **Reply #12 on:** 24 November 2014, 11:43:10 pm »

Quote from: Paulfzs on 24 November 2014, 10:33:16 pm

engine out?

i did mine with the engine in...

this one is the middle one on the right hand side looking at the bike.. bit tight but still pretty easy..
start with a 2mm drill bit work up by .5.. took me about hour and half - 2 hours

Paul

It that a GS1000S or GS1000 with S panels on the left in the picture?

Paulfzs · « **Reply #13 on:** 24 November 2014, 11:57:26 pm »

Quote from: unfazed on 24 November 2014, 11:43:10 pm

Quote from: Paulfzs on 24 November 2014, 10:33:16 pm
engine out?

i did mine with the engine in...

this one is the middle one on the right hand side looking at the bike.. bit tight but still pretty easy..
start with a 2mm drill bit work up by .5.. took me about hour and half - 2 hours

Paul

It that a GS1000S or GS1000 with S panels on the left in the picture?

GS1000

Kentish · « **Reply #14 on:** 25 November 2014, 05:37:29 pm »

are the Boxeye and foxeye the same frame? Its impossible to get flush on the middle studs on a foxeye . The frame is in the way

unfazed · « **Reply #15 on:** 25 November 2014, 06:15:45 pm »

Use left hand drill bits,

Frame down tubes and cross bars in the that section are the same.

Paulfzs · « **Reply #16 on:** 25 November 2014, 06:19:10 pm »

he has the boxeye and the frame bar that goes across is in the way a little bit but if you have a slim drill itll fit in with plenty of room

Gingernutz · « **Reply #17 on:** 28 November 2014, 10:48:18 pm »

When mine broke the dealer called in an engineer who drilled them in place - he spends half his life patiently drilling these out

Dave48 · « **Reply #18 on:** 29 November 2014, 08:28:19 am »

Easier to remove rad & hoses for access to broken studs than to remove entire engine. It is possible with care & patience to drill these out in situ-you need,as said, a fairly narrow drill & long drill bits to bypass frame brace. Get comfortable before starting to drill & get plenty of light on the area.

tweetytek · « **Reply #19 on:** 29 November 2014, 11:14:03 am »

how do these things break anyway; I've never had studs break on any bikes I've owned. Is this a fizzy only issue ??? does spraying the header nuts for a week - before attempting removal - with WD not help?

Dave48 · « **Reply #20 on:** 29 November 2014, 12:53:11 pm »

Quote from: tweetytek on 29 November 2014, 11:14:03 am

how do these things break anyway; I've never had studs break on any bikes I've owned. Is this a fizzy only issue ??? does spraying the header nuts for a week - before attempting removal - with WD not help?

Yes this does help but the general issue seems to be that part of the stud is open to the effects of corrosion and the standard nuts dont help. better to replace these with dome headed stainless steel ones and apply a smidgeon of copper grease to the threads. Dont overtighten-they are-from memory-only 8Nm and it is very easy to overdo things with resultant pain & frustration!

tweetytek · « **Reply #21 on:** 29 November 2014, 01:04:38 pm »

I don't think I will be doing this myself - I have read many posts on this forum relating to this issue. Seems a weak area. I'll just take it to my mechanic when the pipes rot - he can source some from M&P and fit them for £200 ! not worth the agro attempting myself.

fazersharp · « **Reply #22 on:** 29 November 2014, 01:19:10 pm »

Quote from: tweetytek on 29 November 2014, 01:04:38 pm

I don't think I will be doing this myself - I have read many posts on this forum relating to this issue. Seems a weak area. I'll just take it to my mechanic when the pipes rot - he can source some from M&P and fit them for £200 ! not worth the agro attempting myself.

Yes but once they snap he wont still be charging you the £200 as there will be an extra 4 hours drilling.
I don't think wd40 for a week is going to be much use, I am going to get some plus gas or I have done a bit of research and found something called Kroil Penetrating Oil and I plan to use this for months.

tweetytek · « **Reply #23 on:** 29 November 2014, 01:22:37 pm »

No. If he snaps them that's his problematic conundrum. ha..I was sure to check that with him. "don't worry "he said. So I'm waiting till they need doing. I guess it comes down to how good your mechanic is. But I don't pay for poor application... These guys (good ones at least) know what they are doing and have the correct tips tools and techniques. Change your mechanic mate!!
Ta-da!

fazersharp · « **Reply #24 on:** 29 November 2014, 01:39:01 pm »

Quote

Change your mechanic mate!!

Er--- that would be me then!

From the sound of it your mechanic has never had to deal with snapped studs and when yours snap he will have to suck it up and stand the cost himself but the next time someone wants a new down pipes fitting im sure he will be adding a caveat to cover himself for the extra work.