[Fixed] Will not rev past 8k

[positron]

And 70,000 miles out of a paper air filter 

  Possibly! In my defense, I get it fully serviced every year and when the mechanic charged me for an air filter I assumed he had changed it. Last FULL (read expensive, €340 euro = £270) service was in February, just 5 months ago! Coming to that stage that I am spending more on the bike per year than the bike is worth... 

[darrsi]

Had a similar scenario years ago when i was having work done on my bike and asked for the front calipers to be cleaned up while he had the bike.
I had them apart a few months later and they were in a right state, they couldn't have been touched at all.

[unfazed]

And 70,000 miles out of a paper air filter 

  Possibly! In my defense, I get it fully serviced every year and when the mechanic charged me for an air filter I assumed he had changed it. Last FULL (read expensive, €340 euro = £270) service was in February, just 5 months ago! Coming to that stage that I am spending more on the bike per year than the bike is worth... 

Maybe it is time you started to learn how to do the basic stuff yourself.

In 1977 I was fleeced by a Motorcycle dealer in Dublin because I did not have Vacuum Gauges or the tool for adjusting the tappats on a GS550 Suzuki. I swore after that I would never darken the door of a dealer again other than to buy a bike or maybe spares.

Two weeks later I bought both items in the USA and a friend who was on holidays in the USA brought them to Ireland when he was returning home. (I still have them).. A month later I bought a torque spanner and now own 3 of them.    
I have never left any of my bikes near a shop since, I even change and balance my own tyres.
I o help a friend who is a bike mechanic with electrics and electronics and recently he had a bike which the owner took out of the dealers because there were charging so much to sort out the lack of charging (no pun intended) on his bike. When he took the bike out and gave it to my friend, we discovered they had melted the ignition switch after fitting the wrong regulator to it and chopped the wiring loom to fit the wrong regulator.

Invest is a few good quality tools and especially a good torque spanner in the range of 5 to 50 Nm 3/8 drive.  (The 3 torque spanners I have range from 0 to 20Nm, 3/8 drive,  8 to 50Nm 3/8 drive and 20 to 150Nm 1/2 drive). At least as a beginner you will know bolts are tightened properly. There are many small bolts on bikes which are easily overtightened and stripped.

[positron]

Absolutely. The best part of doing own maintenance is memories like that one right there.

I would really love to try and fix and learn in the process. Lack of time and initial investment stands in the way, but when if I add up how much I am paying to mechanic for simplest of things, it's a no-brainer. So far I've managed to change the downpipes, fix some minor cosmetic stuff and tighten the chain, but that's about it. I just don't have the right tools for the job as is, and you are right about sheering nuts and bolts, I've already butchered a few.

Problem is many fold I guess - I have attention span of a gold fish. Secondly, I have no warm place to work on the bike when it turns cold, which is a problem as I commute year round (even when it snows). Frozen fingers against sharp cold edges =  excruciating pain to my wussy Indian hands that's designed excel in 30+ degree C! I may have to fix up or upgrade my garden shed to accommodate a bike or two in near future. And My "tool set" so far is pitiful - just an Halfords ratchet set, couple of  spanners, bunch of screw drivers and others odd bits and pieces.  Oh and an Aldi (or was it lidl) torque wrench (28-210 nm) which I am yet to use... I have been looking for a torque wrench (spanner?) at the lower range like you suggested, but they are all €70+ range... but perhaps I do need to spend that much for quality stuff. Any particular recommendations?

PS: Order placed for K&N air filter with wemoto yesterday.

[positron]

Hmm, somehow I thought these were more expensive.. This looks affordable..

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-STW1011-Micrometer-7-112Nm-5-83lb-ft/dp/B000ROF64O

but this looks fancy (unaffordable)

http://www.halfords.ie/motoring/garage-equipment/hand-tools/halfords-professional-torque-wrench-8-60nm

[Buzz]

I, and a few others on here, own this one, £25 reduced from £65.  10-80 Nm and it's pretty accurate, at the lower end you need to slightly adjust it according to this scale (reading=real), useful if you're doing the exhaust studs up to 10 Nm and don't want to snap anything! -


3Nm=5Nm, 8Nm=10Nm, 9Nm=10.9Nm, 11Nm=12.5Nm, 13Nm=13.5Nm, 15Nm=14.9Nm, 20Nm=19.9Nm.

[unfazed]

I prefer to go for a smaller range which is why I have 3. Much easier to set 10 on a scale of 0 to 20 than set it on a scale of 5 to 100.
Generally the shorter scales are more accurate. I have Norbars which have an accuracy of + or -3/%.

Most important rules of torque wrenches is

1.Trust them when they click, it is tight enough, do not go the extra bit to be sure
2. Wind them back to the stop when finished using them.
3. Do not use them for undoing bolts or nuts
4. Do not drop them of throw them around.

[positron]

I, and a few others on here, own this one, £25 reduced from £65.  10-80 Nm and it's pretty accurate, at the lower end you need to slightly adjust it according to this scale (reading=real), useful if you're doing the exhaust studs up to 10 Nm and don't want to snap anything! -


3Nm=5Nm, 8Nm=10Nm, 9Nm=10.9Nm, 11Nm=12.5Nm, 13Nm=13.5Nm, 15Nm=14.9Nm, 20Nm=19.9Nm.

Thank you, I like that one. So based on the scale, you can't get to any of the sub 10.9Nm settings with that Draper? Is that okay with motorbikes in general and perhaps pedal bikes in future?

And I wonder how does this Teng 5-25 nm 1/4 compare (especially since I already have a 28-200 Aldi one):

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Teng-1492AGE-5-25nm-4-inch-Torque/dp/B000Y8J2CA/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1404992352&sr=1-1

[unfazed]

Ideal if you have 1/4 drive sockets.
Most used 1/4 drive sockets are 8 10 and 12mm and a 150mm 1/4 drive plus extension bar

[positron]

Thanks my this is my current socket set: http://www.halfords.ie/motoring/garage-equipment/socket-sets/phaze-50-piece-socket-set

* 5 x 3/8" Drive 6pt sockets: 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4
* 4 x 3/8" Drive 6pt sockets: 13, 14, 15, 17mm
* 8 x 1/4" Drive 6pt sockets: 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 9/32", 5/16", 11/32", 3/8", 7/16"
* 9 x 1/4" Drive 6pt sockets: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12mm

The mix of fractions wrecks my head - I much prefer decimals, in fact back in school I didn't really get into fractions until I was 12 and I was tasked to help a bunch of juniors to learn fractions. Strong mental block!

While I am still waiting for wemoto to deliver K&N air fliter, I dug out my last full service receipt dated 7th Feb 2014, and it says:

Spark plug - 4 x 10.13 - €40.52
Oil - 2.60 x 8.37 - €21.76
Oil filter - €9.69
Air filter - €16.70
Rear break pads - €25.11
Rear caliper seal kit - €14.40
Brake fluid - €3.96
Front brake lever - 17.62 (it was broken when a junkie kicked my bike over outside my office)

And you guys reckon that filter is older than 6 months? Jesus christ, may be I should check my spark plugs, brake pads etc too now

[darrsi]

Thanks my this is my current socket set: http://www.halfords.ie/motoring/garage-equipment/socket-sets/phaze-50-piece-socket-set

* 5 x 3/8" Drive 6pt sockets: 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4
* 4 x 3/8" Drive 6pt sockets: 13, 14, 15, 17mm
* 8 x 1/4" Drive 6pt sockets: 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 9/32", 5/16", 11/32", 3/8", 7/16"
* 9 x 1/4" Drive 6pt sockets: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12mm

The mix of fractions wrecks my head - I much prefer decimals, in fact back in school I didn't really get into fractions until I was 12 and I was tasked to help a bunch of juniors to learn fractions. Strong mental block!

While I am still waiting for wemoto to deliver K&N air fliter, I dug out my last full service receipt dated 7th Feb 2014, and it says:

Spark plug - 4 x 10.13 - €40.52
Oil - 2.60 x 8.37 - €21.76
Oil filter - €9.69
Air filter - €16.70
Rear break pads - €25.11
Rear caliper seal kit - €14.40
Brake fluid - €3.96
Front brake lever - 17.62 (it was broken when a junkie kicked my bike over outside my office)

And you guys reckon that filter is older than 6 months? Jesus christ, may be I should check my spark plugs, brake pads etc too now

That air filter is probably older than 6 years more like.

[unfazed]

Thanks my this is my current socket set: http://www.halfords.ie/motoring/garage-equipment/socket-sets/phaze-50-piece-socket-set

* 5 x 3/8" Drive 6pt sockets: 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4
* 4 x 3/8" Drive 6pt sockets: 13, 14, 15, 17mm
* 8 x 1/4" Drive 6pt sockets: 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 9/32", 5/16", 11/32", 3/8", 7/16"
* 9 x 1/4" Drive 6pt sockets: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12mm

And you guys reckon that filter is older than 6 months? Jesus christ, may be I should check my spark plugs, brake pads etc too now

Get rid of the fraction as you call them, correct name is imperial and are no use, unless you are fixing old English motorbikes. All nuts and bolts on the fazer are metric.
Definitely much older then six months unless you were riding around in a working coal mine

[positron]

Okay that's a lot of confirmation for the age of air filter. So my mechanic either made an honest mistake, or he was shafting me. I need to establish which because otherwise I should look to replace spark plugs, brake pads etc too asap. Not looking forward to speaking to the mechanic again to be honest.

On the plus side, K&N filter arrived yesterday and I installed it last night. Obligatory Old vs New photo.



This morning on my usual route to work (68 kms, plenty of time to assess everything), bike didn't feel any different at first, but within about 4-5 kms and it was obviously revving free'r and felt better around 4-6k rpm range. There wasn't any significant increase in power that I could feel at that range to be honest, it just felt better. Further up 6-8 felt great, and bike was happy to sing along to 8-11k as well which is as far as I could take it on the motorway today. The The free'ness in 5-8k range is brilliant because that's where I am most at.

Thank you again to everyone for helping me sort this particular issue, but even more importantly, for getting me back into DIY mode.

I am not out of the woods yet though. Bike now cuts out when warm - for instance at the end of my commute to work today, if I pull the clutch in coasting down a hill, it would just die. Coming to traffic light, pull cluch in, it would die. I have to constantly keep a tiny bit of acceleration to keep the engine running. When cold, the idle is ridiculously low - it's like 500 rpm or less even. I can't seem adjust it as the idle adjusting thingee on the right side under the tank isn't turning. Well it's turning, but I think it's the entire cable thing behind it that is turning. Perhaps I should try dousing it on WD40 etc for a day or two and it might free up? Is there anything else that could cause it to die so easily when engine is really warm?

[andybesy]

From memory I'm pretty sure the idle idle adjuster is on the left side?

EDIT: actually maybe you're right I forgot now. I do my choke manually on left side so I may be confusing with that.

Does the idle speed adjust when you adjust the control?

Certainly a bit of WD40 or similar on the carb mechanisms once in a while can help them remain free. I snapped my choke cable due to a seized mechanism on the carb but WD40 released it no problem.

Just to give you an indication what you're looking for, my bike is set to idle at 1200 - 1300 when fully warmed up, with translates in to an idle of about 1,000 when the engine is cold (normal weather). If it's a very cold day then it might be lower and need a bit of choke.

Andy

[Buzz]

Hey fella,


I remembered that another user (Macca4786) had a similar problem with their Idle Adjuster doing nothing, turned out it had completely unscrewed from the carbs.  He managed to screw it back in without taking the carbs off, much to everyone's surprise!


http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,11462.msg123283.html#msg123283


Cheers...Buzz

[positron]

From memory I'm pretty sure the idle idle adjuster is on the left side?

EDIT: actually maybe you're right I forgot now. I do my choke manually on left side so I may be confusing with that.

You are correct, it's on the left.. Or is it too late to say "I meant the other right"? 


Thanks Buzz, will have a read thru that thread now.

[midden]

Leave the choke at half position for longer untill warmed up, you'll know definatley if you leave it on for too long as the bike willstart to become sluggish. 

[positron]

Thanks again for the tips, managed to set the idle speed right with some WD40 and by holding the cable steady with o e hand while turning the knob with the other. Just over 1000 rpm now and looks good. I will have to wait till Monday to see if it has fixed the problem.

While I had the tools out, I also adjusted the rear shock preload tighter by two more notches. I didn't have any major issues to start off with, but thought I would see how it feels.

[thunderpantz]

Idle should be around 1500 I think according to haynes

[Dave48]

Idle should be around 1500 I think according to haynes

The correct idle speed range for the FZS 600 is 1150-1250rpm. This needs to be adjusted with the engine up to normal operating temperature. Good luck!

[Dave48]

Idle should be around 1500 I think according to haynes

The correct idle speed range for the FZS 600 is 1150-1250rpm. This needs to be adjusted with the engine up to normal operating temperature. Good luck!

as mentioned in"unfazeds" post on 7th July!

[positron]

A lot of enthusiasm + lack of knowledge + not having right tools + monkey fist * stupidity = disaster(s). Woops!

Okay, so my bike is a bit of a mess. The more I look the more issues I find, and unfortunately the more I try to fix it the more I make it worse...

Trying to adjust the chain, undid the rear axle nut, but both nuts on the chain adjuster bolt on the right side were well seized, and yes, I broke the bolt! It's still long enough for the first nut, just no room for the locking nut. On the plus side that adjuster nut that is there is now turning, so I have set the chain slack right (I hope), but when a new chain goes on I will to get a new bolt in there. I hope that's not too hard / expensive job.

Then I upped my antics, and lifted the front of the bike up putting axle stands somewhere close to where the main stand would be.. ish. And I found that the front calipers are fairly tight on the disk and the wheel is barely turning, and trying to manhandle it out the bike moved a bit, slipped from the axle stand, and somehow it got to the 'water pump outlet hose' thingee (according to the manual) at the left side of the bike, and it's put a hole there. Double Doh!! It spits out coolant if I run the engine. Anyone know where to get one of these, they look easy enough to change - two clamps and should be straight forward right? And new coolant of course. In the meantime would it be worth trying to wrap it in some self-amalgamating tape?

Something like this: http://www.halfords.ie/motoring/auto-parts/car-tape-glue-velcro/harris-pipe--hose-repair-tape-25mmx3m

The brake pads looks bad. I could see uneven wear - thinner at the front of the pads, thicker at the back. Not much life left anyway. Pistons are not moving all the way back. I don't know how to really service calipers. I guess I will hit youtube and see if there's any good videos about it.

On the plus side I am learning... something... I hope I am. And my dad, an ex-army engineer, on skype from India had a hearty laugh at the mess I got myself into. His advice: advice: get a new bike.

[darrsi]

Does it run okay around the 2 to 3000rpm mark, or is it a bit jerky at all with plenty of clutch control needed?

[positron]

Does it run okay around the 2 to 3000rpm mark, or is it a bit jerky at all with plenty of clutch control needed?

It runs okay. Are you referring to the 8k issue? That's been solved. I should edit the title of the thread.

I have wrapped the "holy" water pump outlet hose in the two part "haris pipe and hose repair tape". It was horrible to do it as there was very little room behind that pipe, and I suspect if it would actually contain the leak. I haven't started it, just in case if this self-amalgamating tape thingee needs time to set. Will see how it's in the morning. Does anyone here have one of these yokes lying around, perhaps from upgrading to fancy kit?

[noggythenog]

Does it run okay around the 2 to 3000rpm mark, or is it a bit jerky at all with plenty of clutch control needed?

It runs okay. Are you referring to the 8k issue? That's been solved. I should edit the title of the thread.

I have wrapped the "holy" water pump outlet hose in the two part "haris pipe and hose repair tape". It was horrible to do it as there was very little room behind that pipe, and I suspect if it would actually contain the leak. I haven't started it, just in case if this self-amalgamating tape thingee needs time to set. Will see how it's in the morning. Does anyone here have one of these yokes lying around, perhaps from upgrading to fancy kit?

Positron....take a deep breath...and relax

Firstly...the swingarm.....everything is replaceable......but you gotta stop foccing things up.....I've got to be honest I've never needed to adjust the chain myself...by the time I need tyres and the tyre guys take them off and they do it up....I dunno every time I checked the chain it was ok.....but the standard spanners for the adjustors are just woeful anyway.

I have offered my swingarm to fizzypies on the cheap if he organises postage, if he doesn't want it then maybe you could be interested....it has new bearings in it so is a little bit future proof.....postage is the killer....and I would get somebody nearby in the know to help you out with fitting it....or just ebay for the adjustor parts and replace them instead....I only want £15 for the swingarm which covers my time only in taking it off and cleaning it up...like I say postage is the issue.

The rad hose.....ok I kept my old rad hoses for this reason....but some may be missing...post up a pic of the one you need and ill have a look.......if you pay postage on it then you can have it.....if I have it.