I remember how pissed off you were that I was taking a photo instead of helping you out! Do you have the one of that guide on the back of my bike? 100mph wearing a thin turban. I bet he still writes to Dan asking for money.
In terms of customs - we did Cueta which is part of Spain in Africa. Very good as we stayed in a nice hotel there so hit customs first thing (fresh and clean) the following day. It does take time, and it is chaotic, and we did end up paying someone.