Removing engine

[Paul]

Quick question: does anyone know which is the best side to remove the engine from the frame?
I'm pretty sure I've asked this question before, but I can't remember the answer, so I apologise for forgetting. 

[Fazerider]

It comes out on the right hand side.

[Paul]

Thanks, I'm guessing you mean right-hand side when you sit on it (off-side) as opposed to near-side (as in kerb side)


I'll write it down this time.

[Fazerider]

Yes, the right as when sat on it (facing forwards). 

[Jamieg285]

Yes, the right as when sat on it (facing forwards). 

Yeah, but how do you get the engine out if you're sitting on the bike, surely your legs will get in the way   

[Steve3351]

Yes...it comes out on the STARBOARD side, u need to remove the rad.
A trolley jack under the engine is a big help.
If u place a box or some sort of platform beside the bike, at the same height as the engine this helps when sliding it out.
It's not easy, my bike finally fell over and the engine sort of fell out . Getting it back in was easier.

[Fazerider]

Since I’m doing the same job myself at the moment, here’s my system:






Car jack under the engine with an old greased-up Nissan Micra front disc to support the engine and make it easy to slide out onto the platform of assorted bits of timber I keep in case they come in handy one day.
Once the engine is disconnected, jack it up and move it forward in the frame until it clears the rear mounting brackets (note that the rear upper right has a secondary plate held with 2 screws which has to be removed). You can then swivel the engine out back end first.
Other methods involve strength or extra pairs of hands, but I’m Billy-no-mates and the engine weighs more than me.

[unfazed]

No shortage of salt corrosion there Fazerider. You appear to have all the exhaust bolts intact 

[Fazerider]

No shortage of salt corrosion there Fazerider. You appear to have all the exhaust bolts intact 

You’re not wrong! My plan was a quick scrub with a wire brush and slap on some Hammerite, unfortunately the grime had been hiding this:





and the underside’s no better:





Yes, the studs are all pretty good, but that’s the old engine with seized plugs, rattly camchain, slipping clutch, false neutrals for 2nd and 5th gear and 120,000 miles of wear.
The studs aren’t so good on the new motor.