FAZER 1000 VIRGIN

[Dinger1962]

Hi fellas /ladies ive recently purchased a (cat d) 2001 fazer thou ,only very minor cosmetic damage-repairs complete now and using for commute to work-changed bars adjusted clutch and throttle set up-- seem to have a slight fluffing/judder at low revs -but pulls like a train when i give it some  any ideas please i plan on pulling to bits this weekend cheers--

[b1k3rdude]

Welcome

• Check your spark plugs, what colour are they, do they look worn, were any of them loose? if any were loose check said plug will nip up and then take a further a 1/8 turn -  if any keep turning then that's a whole world of aggro. But its very very rare for this to happen, unless the previous owner was mechanically a complete cock.
• Check you plug caps for cracks and splits, replace if found.
• Check the HT leads aren't loose in said plug caps, if so trim the end and re-insert leads into caps with a twisting motion - don't be too aggressive, you will start to feel resistance to the twisting progressively getting tighter (5turns or so works in most cases)
• Check all the vacuum spigot caps for cracks or looseness (little black caps 1/2" long sit on the inlets between the carbs and the engine.
• Check the 9" vacuum tube that goes from no.4 carb(far r/h side) to the under side of the tank for looseness or cracks etc.
• if the previous owner has been a tinkerer they make have played aropund with the mixtures screws and also the carbs might need balancing.
• If all of the above is correct as per the manual, it cant hurt to pop down to your local dealer and get the compression checked.
• With the bike on the stand and in neutral, does the bike idle and then rise through the revs smoothly?

If the above idle/rpm rise is smooth and the stutter is only happening when moving then another thing you can check and (if need be) service, is the exup valve -

• when you turn the ignition on does the rev counter move around the dial? yes means there is an issue with the exup vale/servo - 5k rpm indicates the exup valve isn't moving freely and needs servicing, 10k rpm means the TPS (throttle position sensor has been fiddle with and needs it position resetting)
• with the ignition on start the bike let it run for a second or so then hit the kill switch - you should hear a servo noise that lasts for about a second from under the front/left hand side of the petrol tank - this means the servo motor is working.
• To service the exup valve, put the bike on the center stand and lay down next to the l/h side of the bike and you will see a silver/chrome cover on the side of the exhaust system, just behind the side stand.
• Remove the 8mm bolts that hold the cover one (but be gentle as these can seize, if tight apple penetrating fluid and leave over night)
• behind that cover is the exup valve cover plate, which is also held in place but 3 more bolts (but in this case be even more careful because if you snap one of these its a trip to bike should to have them drilled out and re-threaded or helicoiled.
• once you get the exup out, check it for straightness - east way to do this at home is to put one end in a variable speed hand drill and slowly spin the vale - any out of true will be immediately obvious.
• If the vale is out of true then with the vale still in the drill chuck, gently tap it with a rubber mallet and check for true - rinse and repeat. Then put the opposite end of the vale in the drill check and check for true again etc.
• Then lastly put some copper grease on the valve ends and cover plate before re-assembly. Also don't forget to put the small 5mm spacer on the end of the valve that goes into the exhaust headers (people either forget or loose this, not the end of the world - but you end up with a rattly exup vale)
• And lastly on the subject of those 6x bolts - its recomnended you replace these with stainless or titanium so you never have to worry about seizing/snapping.

And what's with tomos, restoration project..?

[bigbluebear]

Fuck all on the telly B1k3rdude??????

[Hedgetrimmer]

Personally, I'd start with a thorough service inc. Plugs, air filter, carb balance etc. Then you know where you're starting from. Then I'd Ivanise the foc out of it! 

But b1k3rdude does have some very valid suggestions too, and I'm no mechanic 

[Dinger1962]

cheers Bikerdude for quick response most helpful gonna dive in this weekend hopefully cure problem it just not easy to ride in town slowly cheers Stu--

[Dinger1962]

thanks nick all suggestions /ideas welcome will try all before i give in to shop

[b1k3rdude]

Fuck all on the telly B1k3rdude??????

heh sorta, been online trying to find me a replacement mosfet based regulator so I can proceed with project "volt-drop-fix"

• thorough service inc. Plugs, air filter
• Carb balance etc.

• Agreed, never hurts to replace oil/air filters, oil(semi-synth) and plugs on a s/h bike.
• If your able to balance the carbs yourself, you'll need to make sure the mixture screws are set the correct amount of turns out (2x for a stock gen1). Any bike shop will have a right-angled screw driver for doing this and will only take them 5mins, which is better than taking them out to do that task.

Where are you based? (Im south herts) as I have said right-angled screw driver, carb balancing gauges, ext. fuel tank etc.

[Falcon 269]

If you're going to alter mixture screws on stock carbs, set them to 3.5 - 4 turns out.

Pre-03 bikes were very prone to lean surge at part throttle, which could well be the root cause of the low rpm woes you report.  However, run through the service items suggested first to minimize the effects.

The proper cure is re-jetting - search here for 'Ivanising' and also read this thread: 

http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/jetkitinstallation.html

Pat's Site is one you should become familiar with as it covers all the key maintenance and mod items on the Gen 1.

Mike

[sadlonelygit]

...........usual good advice................

and mike swoops down on yet another unsuspecting victim client

[b1k3rdude]

If you're going to alter mixture screws on stock carbs, set them to 3.5 - 4 turns out.

youd think haynes would have changed the setting of 2 mentioned in thier manual.

[Dinger1962]

thanks for offer Dude but i live in cumbria --will try everything suggested if all else fails ill take it to shop--

[Dinger1962]

RESULT!!!-on lifting tank to start dismantling i discovered fuel hose twisted i guess tank been lifted and replaced 180 degrees round(fuel starvation) also due to service kit not arriving had a look at the exup valve noticed lot of slack in both cables.rang my mate(fat harry cheers)for advice-- Locked valve in place with drill bit using cable adjustment under tank and took up the slack/let off tension --massive improvement bottom end acceleration much smoother now--hope this may help anyone with similar problems--will service when kit arrives--thanks dude thanks nick--gonna give my Tomos a sudika 125 engine upgrade this  winter local ped owners wont be laughin at the lights anymore --

[slimwilly]

Is it a gen1 or gen 2?  this makes all the difference when asking for help

[Dinger1962]

not sure 2001 model how do i tell ?

[Stupid Luke]

Gen 1 then. Gen 2 didnt come in until 2006.

[Hedgetrimmer]

2001 - 2005 = gen 1. (FZS1000)

FZ1 = gen 2 (not sure of complete range of manufacture dates, but I think the first (unfaired) gen 2 came out in 2006?

And yet another opportunity to whore it out (twice in a week      )

A very fast gen 1, cos it's yellow (and NO, I'm never going to get bored with this either  )



An example of a faired gen 2 (slow, cos it's red      )

[brooker81]

Cheeky foccer that's my bike u shall owe me copyright monies for that.

[Hedgetrimmer]

I'll pay it out of the copyright monies apage owes me for video-ing mine 

[Dinger1962]

thanks all thats all folks------------------