Clutch problems

[Dan.C.]

Hello all!
My problem:
I bought an accidented bike with no clutch lever. After all the painting and rebuild, the bike is almost ready. Now comes the fun part. I put the new lever, start the bike on the center stand and when I try to squeze the clutch lever I have to apply a lot of force.
I opened the clutch cover, the friction plates were a bit stuck, I cleaned them, perform a oil change, but nothing, can't squeeze the lever. I have 2 options when adjusting from the lever nut or clutch cover nut, ON and OFF.   Eighter is too loose and nothing happend when I squeeze the lever, eighter is verry tight and again, almost nothing happens when I hardly squeeze it, except a little friction sound coming from the clutch cover. Eighter way,
If I try to press the metal rod (the one marked with red) with my hand I can't. The problem starts from it, how much force is normal to be used to push it?
I can't use the clutch. Any ideas?

[Dead Eye]

Are you absolutely certain that the pressure plate has seated properly on the clutch side? I had this issue where it wasn't quite sat in place (about 3mm out) and it made the clutch useless in the same manor; either too loose or too tight - if you put the bike on the side stand, you should be able to remove the clutch cover without any oil leak providing its not over-filled

It's also very unlikely you will be able to push the rod in by hand on even a correctly adjusted clutch - this is what the lever is for

I'd start by checking the clutch side including the order of the plates - I also messed this up by having the larger internal diameter plate in the wrong position

Yeah... I had lots of fun with my clutch

[Dan.C.]

I think I overtighten the pressure plate bolts. I didn't use a torque wrench and I tighten them by hand pretty strong.
Now, I checked the manual and the torque is 8Nm. 
I will open it again this weekend. I didn't knew there is a larger internal diameter plate. I will pay attention.

[Dead Eye]

Yeah, the Haynes book of lies doesn't make it overly clear (in my opinion) but the larger ID plate is designed to sit over the anti-judder spring. If its in the wrong order, it means the plates stick out a little further. I also found that you can get the pressure plate to seat on the bolts, but it must seat correctly with the splines on the clutch basket - it must be flush. The springs themselves do not need to be tight at all so this may cause a few issues for you. Don't over tighten them too much or you'll do what I did and snap the damn clutch basket mounting point *sigh*

Hopefully everything makes sense, if not just post up and I'll try and explain a bit more... might have some photos but I don't think so

[Dan.C.]

Now it make sense!
One more question: The metal plates seems to have slightly differently faces. Am I right or I am paranoic?

[Dead Eye]

I assume you mean that the metal plates seem to have a slight curve on the edge of one of their faces? I noticed this as well and kept the curvature facing away from the engine

Glad that its beginning to make sense - happy to help

[Dan.C.]

Exactly! Thank you!

[Dan.C.]

Done!
I tighten the bolts at 8Nm.
I put the pressure plate in the right manner. One week ago I didn't know you it has a right manner.
I put the metal plates with curvature facing away from the engine.
The larger ID plate was in place.
Now it's working fine! Thank you!

[fazersharp]

Glad you are now sorted but for future reference for others you can not push the rod (ringed red) by hand, and if you look at the way it works your full leaver pull translates to push the rod by only about 5-7 mm

[Dead Eye]

Glad to be of assistance and to hear that all is ok now Time to stick some grin filled miles on it ^^