snapped an exhaust stud

[mobile mouse]

Hi all,
Removing the exhaust bolts to replace an exhaust clamp and snapped the stud just behind the bolt head.
It was well rusted and I soaked it with GT85 over 3-4 days.
Loads of stud sticking out.
It's done so I need to sort it out.
It's cylinder 3 the upper bolt (2nd exhaust pipe in from the Off side).


I don't know if the stud is seized so must expect it is. I am expecting the stud to snap off at the cylinder face, is this what happened to others.
Is there any way to get the stud out in situe.


What tools have people used that work.
Help would be appreciated.

[Kentish]

Forget stud extractors it will just snap. If you have loads of stud sticking out I would weld a nut on the end. Start the engine let it get red hot then Get a blow torch and heat it until it glows orange. Then try and then turn it out. If that doesn't work. Engine out I am afraid

[lds1973]

try this if you have got stud showing from block, no need to risk snapping anymore off and itll pass an MOT like it no probs, trust me. I got the idea off someone else on here.

Details ATT00020

ATT00020

[Buzz]

What's going on there?  Soz for the dumb question.

[Kentish]

Looks like he has wound a threaded hex bolt onto the remaining stud then put a bolt into it. Cleaver idea actually

[Deefer666]

If you have clearance and enough thread I heat them with a blow torch and then use Snap-on stud extractors,, which are like a socket but have tapered rollers inside which grab the stud and tighten as twisted anti clockwise. 9 times out of 10 they will come out. if not I just pull the engine out and drill and helicoil them....
 

[red98]

from memory........DEADEYE the "exhaust stud master" has the mother of all stud extractors.bought at a good price from amazon i think......he will be along shortly and parhaps he can post a piccy 

[lds1973]

Looks like he has wound a threaded hex bolt onto the remaining stud then put a bolt into it. Cleaver idea actually

spot on, its a m6 coupling nut ground down to about 15mm. I had to thread the remaining stud right up to the engine. Apart from that its dead simple and no one will notice. I would'nt risk trying to remove the stud if:

a) i was'nt sure of my abilities.
b) i did'nt have the correct tools or
c) simply removing the engine was an expensive alternative.

Its only one stud and no 3 so you wont even see it. the exhaust bolts are only done up very lightly so it will hold all your exhaust gases in no bother.

[Dead Eye]

It is possible to remove it with the engine still in the frame but access can be quite hard...

I used a decent stud extractor, an impact driver and a hammer, worked on 5 of my 7 stuck studs but as you can tell, they were all in terrible condition.

You want this type of stud extractor

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-4393-Impact-Stud-Extractor/dp/B001DYRDU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376085226&sr=8-1&keywords=laser+stud+extractor

It allows you to really tighten it up on to the stud - this is the exact set that I have. You ideally only need the 1/4" one but it seems near impossible to find it by itself. The 3/8" drive says that it does down to 6mm but ideally you want less than this so that you can really clamp the extractor on.

Then, an impact driver like this http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_530655_langId_-1_categoryId_165469 (this is also the one I have). You will need an adaptor to get from the 1/2" drive down to the 1/4" drive on the extractor (thankfully I had these already) and then its a case of being liberal with the use of a hammer. Heat will help as well

I have no idea what access is like trying to do this with the engine still in the frame as I did it with the engine removed. Worst case is to remove the forks, but that's a lot easier than removing the engine.

This is obviously quite an involved process compared to some of the other suggestions

[Kentish]

Yeah taking the engine out is just an arseache. If the stud snaps flush u can get a mini air drill in there and drill it out. I done this before on an old fazer then just put a bigger bolt on the hole

[mobile mouse]

here is a picture of the snapped stud a new stud and where a nut in the place where it was snapped off.


The other is my solution a M8 15mm allen head bolt with the head drilled out with a M6 tap.


I am about 1-2mm away from the right thread depth.

[inditime]

Ive taken studs out with a reverse threaded drill bit, it bights if you give it quick bursts on the drill. I have also put in helicoils with the engine in situ, you just need to flat the old stud off and use a very sharp punch and some accuracy to get it in the middle. Good luck.

[BluprintZ]

When i rebuilt the Ducati Monster a few years back, i bought a rather expensive exhaust system for it and rather than replace the original flange nuts, one of the guys on the forum suggested i used brass nuts instead, seems that they were less likely to become seized to the stud, in fact he sent me a pack of four and they looked a lot better than the originals, plus of course they would never rust.
Eventually, i intend buying Motad stainless downpipes (the can is already a stainless Micron) and will probably replace the flange nuts with a brass set, as it will possibly stop any more of this snapped stud malarkey.
Anyone else used these?

G ; )

[elbrownos]

Using brass nuts on stainless studs is common in heavy industry for that reason. Usually a bit bigger though (eg. M50)

[mobile mouse]

Finally all fixed.
A friend told me about, what is called a rivet nut.


So I bought some M6 stainless steel rivet nuts and a couple of M6 & M8 Stainless steel nuts.


I drilled out the nuts so there would be a good friction fit.
Then hammered the rivet nut into the two nuts, see picture.
Don't just hammer the rivet nut as it will fold up, insert a M6 bolt and then hammer the bolt head.
The thread on the bolt will drive the rivet nut into the nut.


I did the M8 version in case I ran out of thread and could not tighten the M6 nut far enough to clamp, but I didn't need it.


It's a very simple fix. I did have to run a 9mm drill through the clamps as the rivet nut was just a little tight and would not turn in the clamp.

[cambo]

Something similar happened to me with last Fazer and I got a couple of nuts and got them professionally ground on the outside so they would just fit through the collar and catch the thread with enough hex left to catch it with a socket or spanner and it worked a treat, I would try that If you can find someone to do the grinding unless you can do it yourself, good luck mate.

[inditime]

Finally all fixed.
A friend told me about, what is called a rivet nut.


So I bought some M6 stainless steel rivet nuts and a couple of M6 & M8 Stainless steel nuts.


I drilled out the nuts so there would be a good friction fit.
Then hammered the rivet nut into the two nuts, see picture.
Don't just hammer the rivet nut as it will fold up, insert a M6 bolt and then hammer the bolt head.
The thread on the bolt will drive the rivet nut into the nut.


I did the M8 version in case I ran out of thread and could not tighten the M6 nut far enough to clamp, but I didn't need it.


It's a very simple fix. I did have to run a 9mm drill through the clamps as the rivet nut was just a little tight and would not turn in the clamp.

Oh bollox. If i had known. I just took my head off to fix two broken studs, what an arseache that was. All done now, and painted it at the same time.

[mobile mouse]

Sorry to here, at least you now have 8 studs that are full length.
Looks very good.
What paint did you use and how did you prep the ali.


My MY03 Foxeye is used all year round and the corrosion is slowly taking hold.
I want to knock it back a bit. and make it look good again.