R1 shift mod: prevent shift rod fouling on frame.

[b1k3rdude]

Afternoon

Discovered my new fazer had the R1 shift arm, and that the connecting rod was bent to suit. I have a spare stock set wich I put on, but in the mean time I would like to if anyone (Devilsyam?) has come up with a better way of using the R1 shifter so that the connecting rod dosent foul on the frame..?

ta.

[devilsyam]

and that the connecting rod was bent to suit

yep best and easiest many have gone ott on this but no point

[jackojet]

just a slight bend in the shift rod is all that is needed, just make sure , when you adjust the lever height the bend of the shift rod is facing right way so no frame fouling occurs , i squirt a drop of chain wax into frame tunnel , just in case, as the rod did foul as you go thru the box , but it only slightly rubbed , the gears up and down go in fine , lube the rose joints for smoother shifts also .
 
regards Jacko

[ghostbiker]

A bend or a notch in the frame.
It's such a slight foul that mine didn't need to be done, it just rubbed a line on the rod.
Had the rod out yesterday as it happens and thought a would file the frame a little..... Big mistake as I filed the middle and then noticed my rod touchs near the edge LOL.

Stick with a slight bend, it works fine.

[mcyoungy]

didn't bother bending the rod on mine. yes it rubs but it's so slight it doesn't make any odds.

[GrahamB]

Didn't fancy bending so filed a very slight flat on mine & polished it up after.     

[karlo]

Afternoon

Discovered my new fazer had the R1 shift connector, and that the connecting rod was bent to suit. I have a spare stock set and put that on, but in the mean time I would like to if anyone (Devilsyam?) has come up with a better way of using the R1 shifter so that the connecting rod dosent foul on the frame..?

ta.

http://fazer1000.yuku.com/topic/4154/Gear-shifter-lever-mod#.T6LDlcVgmYw

[cable tie]

Yeah I agree just file a flat on the shift rod that does the job fine, failing that buy some rear sets and it clears without having to file it.

[b1k3rdude]

I was thinking something that allows but the use of the R1 shift arm and adjustment of the gear lever position. The adapter will also allow the rod to reside in roughly the same location as when connected to stock shifter arm etc.

[devilsyam]

or put the stocker back on problem solved i have 3 here if you want one

[b1k3rdude]

or put the stocker back on problem solved i have 3 here if you want one

I had a spare stock shifter arm, thanks though. I like the shift action with the R1 arm, so I am gonna approach a local engineering shop to get the little adapter made up.

[pitternator]

could be the start of another group mod ??

[b1k3rdude]

could be the start of another group mod ??

Yeah I don't see why not :-)

1st thing is to find a local machine shop that's open on Saturdays. In the mean time I'm gonna make a rough prototype out of hand made shifter rod that came with my R1 shifter arm.

The other benefit of this mod I forgot to mention is that the gear lever position will still be able to be adjusted as it is with the stock shifter arm.

[mcyoungy]

will it work? you're effectively making the shorter R1 knuckle longer. So it would be the same as with the original Fazer knuckle innit?

[b1k3rdude]

I believe it will, because -

# people are bending the stock shift rod, my little mod will replace that bend.
# the actual distance from the center pivot point of the gear selector shaft to the rod ball joint dosen't change as the above bend mod works.

What prompted me to do this little mod is I want to use the R1 shift lever but still want be able to adjust the gear lever position, which you cant do if you bend the connecting rod.

[mcyoungy]

I reckon you're measuring the wrong dimension.

The length of the arm is what affects lever throw.

If you were to extend the lines through the rod and arm in your sketch to make a right angle, you would see that the effective length of the arm has now increased. Bending the rod doesn't do this..... well maybe very marginally, but not adding the extra length in your sketch.

I hope I'm wrong and your device works, but it looks wrong to me.

If you don't bend the rod it just rubs on the frame and you can still adjust it.


 

[b1k3rdude]

Well my drawing is just a rough sketch, I would try to make the adapter as small as possible etc.

Another idea then, how about making a small extension for the gear lever end instead..? it does mean though the R1 lever shaft would have to turn further around said towards the front of the engine etc..

[ghostbiker]

You seem to be trying to solve a problem that isn't a problem to start with.
If you do the slight bend in the rod, or take a small flat on the rod it is still fully adjustable in whole turns.

If you can tell the diff in pedal hight with half a turn or less then your a better man than I and carry on.
Else it just seems realy OTT

Even without any mod at all the foul is so slight it doesn't seem to effect use.

[cable tie]

Yep I totally agree with the man above.

The cost to produce the item / or buy is going to out way the fact that there is no really issue to address that a file cannot fix.

[b1k3rdude]

Even without any mod at all the foul is so slight it doesn't seem to effect use.

When I looked at it the other day, the rod fouled enough on the frame in my case that it made the gear lever stiff.

I see what yer saying, you could just set the lever to the position I want and then put a bend in the rod at that point. But then if and when you have to remove the l/h footpeg/rest its a pain in the arse to get off due to not being able to unscrew the rod. Just remembered the ball joints have a small allen bolt which is removeable so worst case have a slightly bent rod and undue said allen bolt.

At the end of the day its better to try and see if I make it better otherwise it will bug me for not trying.

[mcyoungy]

If the rod is fouling the frame to the extent that it is hindering movement are you sure you'v got the R1 bit lined up correctly dot vs gap and also is it the right way round?


Even if you have to remove the left footrest it's only 3 bolts.

[b1k3rdude]

I had it the right way round and reasonably sure it was lined up with the dot. The issue I had was trying to figure out the gear lever position and tying to stop it even touching the frame


Just been looking at Karlos post when it hit me, I forgot about the removable allen bolts in the ball joints. So worst case if my little adapter idea fails I can fall back on the useal method and when it comes to removing the R1 arm when changing the front sprocket I can just undue the said allen bolt etc.

[mcyoungy]

now you know there are different early R1 arms. Mine doesn't have an allen bolt through, it has a large peened rivet type thing. I reckon there were 3 different versions up to 01. The 98 fitted clamp inwards and the 99 clamp outwards so the fouling may differ dependent on which you have.

[b1k3rdude]

now you know there are different early R1 arms. Mine doesn't have an allen bolt through, it has a large peened rivet type thing.

Ah that might explain the lack of freeplay on the rod if the one I have is a tad shorter than other R1 arms...