New braided brake lines will provide a better feel once their fitted and bled properly, but the key in getting a good feel on the lever -- and maintaining that -- is a combination of patience and technique.
Here's how I'd tackle what you'll be doing, and I write this because you're going to need to try a few things to start you off before you can bleed the "conventional" way "ie: attaching a hose with a one way valve, or not, and bleeding the air out a bit at a time until the bubbles are gone and clear fluid flows through."
Before you do anything relating to fitting new lines start by removing the pads and pushing all four pistons in each caliper back into the caliper as far as they'll go. You'll need to remove the M/C cover and soak fluid up with a rag or use a small syringe otherwise it will overflow (pushing the pistons back in pushes the fluid back up the lines and into the M/C). Then you can put the pads and all the little bits back in and attach it to the bike.
From hereon do not press the front brake lever, yet.
Remove the standard lines and install new ones as required. The 3-way set-up may be less desirable, but takes the guessing out of cable routing; but by the same taken two direct lines are easy to "prime."
In either case, and with all the banjo's torque'd up and lines fitted, start by using a small syringe to remove most (but not all) of the
old brake fluid from the M/C (make sure you leave some in at the bottom so no air gets into the system (well, more than already is). Then use a small syringe to absorb the new brake fluid from your container. Attach the syringe to a small tube of plastic hose that fits over the bleed nipple. Crack the nipple open and inject fluid through the hose into caliper, and then close the bleed nipple. Do this about four or five times.
Once that's done press the lever continuously, but only push the lever back a small amount. Pushing it all the way to the bar may damage the M/C (general advice). You should get fluid coming up into the M/C and the lever firming up slightly. You'll know you're ready for "conventional" bleeding when all four pistons in each caliper has pushed the pads against each disc. This is a time and patience part, but reverse bleeding will prime the whole system and push air up to the M/C where gravity thinks it belongs.
Once you've reverse bled you can go ahead and bleed as normal. Once you've done both calipers cable tie the lever to the bar for twenty-four hours, or overnight, and that will push the air up into the M/C and keep your lever solid.
As a tip you can also prime the race 2 line set-up by leaving one attached to the caliper and removing the other and hanging it over a jar (ie: its fitted to the M/C and bike and installed as it should be, but keep one on one caliper and remove one from the other). Fill the M/C with fluid and gently press the brake lever continuously until you see brake fluid dripping from the hole in the banjo on the brake line, and once that's done you can re-attach it to the caliper and do the other one.
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On the whole I'd start with the syringe method, and reverse bleed to get you started. The system will be full of air, and on monoblock calipers there's plenty of space for it to hide. It will save you so much time.
If try and conventially bleed and get a rush of fluid down the caliper, or a short amount of fluid followed by nothing that then ends up back in the caliper, you know you've got a shit load of air in the system. At that point I'd cable tie the lever overnight and then start from the top of my post.
In either case you're going to be filling the entire system with air by replacing the lines. So just make sure you know how time consuming and how much patience is required to bleed a dry monoblock blue-spot system. Its not overly difficult, but as I've said a couple of times by now technique is key.
Make sure you've got plenty of kitchen roll, and those small 5 ml syringes can be gotten from Boots pharmacy (or just about any pharmacy). The same size tube that fits over you bleed nipple will fit onto the end. I wouldn't advise cable tie-ing the hose to the syringe because you're going to need to refill it, so make sure you hold the clear hose full of fluid at the same time (or buy a handful and fill them all and just use them one after the other). It's the force of continuously pushing fluid into the lines that will force the fluid before it into the caliper and push it up the lines.
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