Real wheel but torque setting & correct chain sag and where to measure

[darrenc]

Evening foccers, just wondering what the correct rear wheel but torque value is and what the chain sag should be and how to correctly set and measure it.

[His Dudeness]

Page 3-35 http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=22

[joebloggs]

Never used a tourque wrench to tighten my wheel, just use a breaker bar and tighten it up focin tight

As for the chain about an inch of slack on the lower run of the chain, better to loose than tight tbh

[tommyardin]

Evening foccers, just wondering what the correct rear wheel but torque value is and what the chain sag should be and how to correctly set and measure it.

Torque setting for the rear wheel axle nut on the FZS 600 is 117 Nm, Front wheel FZS 600 is 67Nm.

[tommyardin]

The 1000 Fazer will probably/definately be different with regard to the previous comment pics.


Final Drive Chain slack FZS 600 1988-1999 = 30 to 40 mm slack
2000 onwards models  FZS 600 = 30 to 45 slack


Seems the same to me with a little bit of tolerance   

[darrsi]

Never used a tourque wrench to tighten my wheel, just use a breaker bar and tighten it up focin tight

As for the chain about an inch of slack on the lower run of the chain, better to loose than tight tbh

An inch of play is 25mm.......too tight.

[darrenc]

I will be using a torque wrench and aim for the 35-40 mm range then

[joebloggs]

I've always used an inch (ask my x) never had any problems with premature wear but if it should be looser then I bow to your superior knowledge

[tommyardin]

Evening foccers, just wondering what the correct rear wheel but torque value is and what the chain sag should be and how to correctly set and measure it.

Torque setting for the rear wheel axle nut on the FZS 600 is 117 Nm, Front wheel FZS 600 is 67Nm.

[tommyardin]

I've always used an inch (ask my x) never had any problems with premature wear but if it should be looser then I bow to your superior knowledge

No Superior knowledge here Joe, just a workshop manual. 

[Graham53]

The 20nm highlighted with that lovely shade of pink is the axle clamp bolt not the axle nut The 117 rear and 67 front is correct but only the rear highlighted in pink in the picture

[unfazed]

The quickest easiest and simplest way of checking the slack on the FZS600 chain is as follows:
Rotate the rear wheel to find the tightest part of the chain.
Now push the chain up to just touch the rubber swinging arm protector.
If you cannot just touch the swinging arm protector with the chain, adjust it until you can.

[Bretty]

I have the impression a lot of people disregard the manual and torque ratings when working on their bikes. 
Something to be very weary of when buying a new bike!! When someone tells you they've done a lot of work themselves,  ask to see their torque wrench!   

Things like the rear axle for example, if you overtighten it, it destorts the box section of the rear swing arm! the previous owner of my bandit had done that, making it not pretty or easy to adjust in future.

[tommyardin]

The quickest easiest and simplest way of checking the slack on the FZS600 chain is as follows:
Rotate the rear wheel to find the tightest part of the chain.
Now push the chain up to just touch the rubber swinging arm protector.
If you cannot just touch the swinging arm protector with the chain, adjust it until you can.

That is exactly the way I do it you end up with about 40 mm at the tightest point of the chain, it might seem a lot but my understanding is that as the rear suspension compresses the chain tightens by that action.

[Graham53]

The quickest easiest and simplest way of checking the slack on the FZS600 chain is as follows:
Rotate the rear wheel to find the tightest part of the chain.
Now push the chain up to just touch the rubber swinging arm protector.
If you cannot just touch the swinging arm protector with the chain, adjust it until you can.

That is exactly the way I do it you end up with about 40 mm at the tightest point of the chain, it might seem a lot but my understanding is that as the rear suspension compresses the chain tightens by that action.

It's strange that so many bikers don't know the correct way of checking and adjusting a chain , I met a guy a few years ago that was struggling to adjust his chain using the adjusters going red in the face with effort  until I pointed out he had to loosen the rear axle first 
Also the trouble with torquing nuts/axles is you've got to have a torque wrench and so many people seem to think the " yeah that's tight enough" approach is ok , I mean the manufacturers put those numbers in the manual for fun don't they

[fazersharp]

dont forget to slacken the brake torque arm 

[Kenbob]

If you have an owners manual and look up tightening the chain it mentions nothing about the torque arm nut.

[fazersharp]

Yes that is why I added the   

There was a big debate on here a while back and I agree with you but the consensus was that unless you know the arm and bolts to be free to move then its a good idea to slacken them off.
Its somthing LIKE this. The caliper should rotate when you pull the wheel back and when it does the torque arm should change its angle to let it, but if the bolts each end are seized then when you pull the wheel back you are loading the swing arm bolt fixing with stress, - have a look at it, a silly blob of alloy with a hole in it.
Last year I took mine off to respray and cleaned and lubed up the pivot points on the arm and fixing, the bolts are not threaded all the way through to allow movement when you pull the wheel back.
Although this picture was also to do with putting a 1000 arm on it shows you the weak piont (not my bike)
     

[fazersharp]

Have a look here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,20059.msg231699.html#msg231699