The time has come to sell my Fazer.
Im posting here to see if anyone on the forum is genuinely interested in buying the bike in its current form first. If not I'll take all the extras off and sell the basic bike and the extras separately. Please at this stage dont make me offers for the C/F etc... if they do come up for sale I'l post them here first
In short its a FZS1000 in excellent condition with 27,250 miles and the following additions / extras...call them what you will. It rides and goes superbly with zero issues anywhere. It has lots of service history up to my purchase since then I've looked after doing all the servicing and mods during the winter months. Its wanted for nothing and is a genuinely pampered bike. I also have a Triumph for two up work and it isn't used for commuting. Sadly lots of other interests and demands on my time mean only 500 odd miles ridden last year, So its time to let her go to a good home and someone who can / will put some miles on her
Professionally re-sprayed 2015
Front forks fully rebuilt with K-Tech Springs, new bushes, seals and oil (Jan 2017)
Armstrong Wavey Discs all round
Carbon Fibre, fairing infills, carb surrounds & side panels (plus bellypan - not fitted at the mo) This is genuine C/F not dipped or plastic look a like
All Alloy (apart from cylinder block) mirror polished
All Steel (apart from frame) chrome plated
Renthal bars
White Clock Face Conversion
Toby Steering Damper on polished bracket
HEL Braided Brake Lines Front & Rear
Span Adjustable “Dog Leg” levers
Alloy Bar-End Mirrors
“Samco” Silicone Hoses
Domino Grips
Genuine Yamaha Crash Bars (chromed)
Ermax Radiator Surrounds
Stainless Radiator Guard
Grizzley Adams Seat
Key-Less Alloy Petrol Cap
R1 gear shift arm mod
Air Recirculation System removed using Holeshot blanking kit
Full Monty carb, inlet rubbers & airbox mod fitted by Mike
Stainless RS3 Yoshimura end can
Hyperpro rear shock
LED Clear rear light
LED Mini Chrome Indicators with relay
EXUP Valve cleaned & Re-Lubed every 6 months
Pirelli Diablo tyres with loads of life left in em

£2,899 firm
The bike is located in Wakefield, West York's (Jnt 40 M1)

In case your not familiar with setting the "static" sag this is how to do it. You need a mate to assist.
If you cant get within the readings in red then the springs (either front or rear) are either too soft or too hard for your weight


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[size=0pt]Measuring: [/size][size=0pt]
 Preload on the spring/springs is very important, [/size]
 because it affects the height of the motorcycle
 and the fork angle. Consequently, handling characteristics
 can be changed, even negatively.
 Proceed as follows (it will be much easier if done
 by two persons):
 A Place the motorcycle on a stand.
 B Lift up the rear end to a fully extended
 position.
 C Measure the distance, eg, from the
 lower edge of the rear mud guard or
 from a point marked by a piece of
 tape, immediately above the rear wheel
 axle, to the wheel axle. (R1)
 D Make a similar measurement on the front
 axle, e.g., from the bottom of the upper
 fork crown to the front wheel axle.
 The fork must also be fully extended. (F1)
 E Allow the motorcycle (without rider) to
 apply load on the springs and repeat
 the measuring procedure. (R2, F2)
 F Then take the same measurements
 with the rider and equipment on the
 motorcycle. It is important that the
 rider has a correct riding posture,
 so that the weight is balanced on the
 front and rear wheel in the same way
 as when riding. (R3, F3)
 The measurements may not differ from the
 following sizes:
 Without rider:
 Rear: 5-10 mm (R1-R2)
 Front: 25-30 mm (F1-F2)
 With rider:
 Rear: 30-40 mm (R1-R3)
 Front: 35-48 mm (F1-F3

+1 on the high temp paint, spent time making sure the preparation was spot on and then applied numerous coats.

Still looks good 12 months later

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+1 for Grizzley's seats. Chuffed to bits with mine and he turned it round inside a week. Outstanding service and a nice bloke to deal with

Not to date...................still looking , if you have one please PM me 

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Now sorted.☺

Many thanks

I used almost every trick in the book to remove my drive sprocket with no success. Using the longest breaker bar I had only resulted in the wood stopping the rear wheel turning snapping...
With no other options available I borrowed a battery powered impact driver and the nut came off in approx 2 seconds..... I've bought one now and I'll use it again for this type of work. I think sustained use of a an impact driver might "eventually" damage a bearing but a couple of seconds??? I'll take my chances.

Of course had the wanker who owned the bike before me not used tons of Loctite on the nut I wouldn't have had the problem in the first place 

I used K&N cleaner on my DNA filter and it worked fine. I then sprayed it with their oil once it was dry

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I recently bought some fork leg internals & lowers from fleabay, basically everything bar the stantions. Sadly apart from the fork leg lowers the rest is crap and unusable but it did give me the opportunity of trying to un-seize the damper adjuster screws.

Firstly I immersed them both completely in plus gas for 48hrs with no joy. Lots of tapping, some gentle but firm efforts with a perfectly fitting "big" screwdriver trying to move the adjusters clockwise & anticlockwise,  then the impact driver and finally heat (firstly a heat gun then a flame) Finally the one that looked like it would be seized for ever came free but I've lost the indent feeling as you screw it in and out.

The second I reckon will be seized forever as the brass screw is now opening up too badly with still no sign of movement whatsoever. I've probably used every trick I know (and I'm an engineer) but I reckon the adjuster will break before it loosens off. That's said I'm gonna keep going at it as its a battle now to see who wins.......lol 

So the point I'm making is after trying all these techniques with the adjusters out of the fork legs and on the bench I seriously doubt there is any benefit at all in trying to un-seize the adjusters whilst they are in situ, so IMHO save your money on squirting them with plus gas and WD40 and tackle them off the bike. You might get lucky

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I'm with Hastings, ~£80 fully comp but with no extras, I'm also over 40 with max NCB.

I have declared the Ivans mod on the basis that if I need to claim and they find this type of mod on the bike they may refuse to pay out. They checked with the underwriters who said that given my age and experience they had no problem with the mod, and I've checked that this is on my records with them.

I also declared my Nitron shock in the vague hope that if I need to make a claim they would cover the extra cost of replacing it.

Every other mod I told them about they said if it's like for like (indicators / end can / levers / seat / brake lines / screen ....) then I don't need to declare it.

I've had to make a claim with Hastings previously and it couldn't really have been any smoother, so they get my vote and repeat business.

I did check out Bennett's previously, they have a list of like for like mods that they will allow and anything not on the list you need to declare, once you do the price goes up considerably and when I asked about the Ivans mod a lot of teeth sucking happened to the point where I said don't bother.

My insurance is due later this month and Mike "Ivanised" my bike a couple of months back. I was going to declare it, but after thinking about it I've come to the conclusion that unless they removed the carbs and had them inspected by an expert I don't see how they could ever tell it'd been done. On the basis that I don't believe that would ever happen I think I'm going to keep my mouth shut. That's said I'm with BikeSure and they are pretty good on the "modification" side of things so...............

I used the alloy ones you've described when refitting my headers and they've been fine. I ran the bike for a few hundred miles and then nipped up the exhaust header bolts again but no problems and no leaks

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TBH I cant remember if the rear footrests were on when I had it MOT'd.  I also polished them and they were a real PITA to do, but I saw the exhaust hanger on fleabay and it was soooo cheap I couldn't say no.

The comment about the twisted radiator had me worried as it does "look" twisted in the pics but after double checking, no its a straight as a die so maybe just an optical illusion?

I know its not to everyone's taste but I love shiny and that's what I love about bikes and their owners............. we're all different aren't we?  It'd be bloody boring if everyone's bike looked the same 

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The side stand, main stand, footrest brackets and a couple of other bits and bobs I had chromed.........

Thanks for the nice comments 

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